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just did my first complete dirac tune with jasons help last night .. pretty awesome i must say . one question , how are you guys running the box for sweeps ? example . are you using your left shoulder for the lower left sweep or behind the seat .. ? is your head in the middle or in front ?
 

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just did my first complete dirac tune with jasons help last night .. pretty awesome i must say . one question , how are you guys running the box for sweeps ? example . are you using your left shoulder for the lower left sweep or behind the seat .. ? is your head in the middle or in front ?
For me - in the demo position - which has the base of the seat moved back to its limit, and then the seat back tilted back a little bit:

Position 1 = tip of the nose

Position 2 & 3= base of the mic at about shoulder level - 6 - 10 inches in front of my shoulder.

Position 4&5 = top of the mic about shoulder level - 6-10 inches in front of shoulder.

Then I lean the seat back till it about hits the back seat. The base of the mic is level to where my shoulder would be - 6 inches back from where they would be in the demo position for the top part of the box, and the top of the mic at shoulder level, 6 inches back from demo position.

We lean the seat back dramatically so there is line of site between each speaker and the mic (sub doesn’t matter of course).

Does that sort of answer your question?


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I looked through the user manual and couldn't find a procedure for setting the gains for the Headunit->DSP->Amp(s)

What's your process?
My buddy John or my installer Mark typically uses an O-Scope but others are using the Dirac screen (volume level screen) to do it.


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Discussion Starter · #484 ·
I'm reading through the 8x12DL User Manual (Rev 2.7) and have come across a confusing bit of information on page 33.

The text is:

A note on active crossovers and Dirac Live
The connection scheme shown in Figure 12 is our recommendation for implementing an active crossover and combining it with Dirac Live. Because of the number of Dirac Live channels available, you may be tempted to try an arrangement where each individual driver is corrected by a single Dirac Live channel. The configuration would look something like this: (routing image)

This arrangement is tempting as it seems that Dirac Live will adjust for the delays between the drivers and flatten the response of each driver individually. However, we don’t recommend this configuration. Apart from being more difficult to set up:
• Dirac Live will not be able to correct for the phase shift through the crossover(s). In other words, impulse response correction will not be working as expected.
• Dirac Live will not be able to correct the combined response of the drivers in the crossover region.
We therefore recommend that you use the output channel processing to implement the active crossover (including basic driver correction and delays between drivers) and allow Dirac Live to work on the combined response of two or three active-crossed drivers.

** Isn't the guide from @Anu2g recommending assigning one driver per Dirac Live channel? I know it suggests groupings as an alternative method. What am I missing here?
So, if you want to pre tune every channel with MmM and REW, and make each driver flat and do a 2-3 ch Dirac tune, it will produce similar results, and Dirac will fix the GD caused by the LP side of each filter and fix the sums all pass to a flat shape….is that better…. If it worked yes

using our method (anu2g manual) you keep the all pass caused by the crossovers…… but it’s almost perfect all pass behavior…. No crossovers fighting because of Dirac moving phase in the LPF side of each channel which results in a few twists or a sawtooth looking phase response in log.

we keep the all pass caused by the crossovers, as long as both sides all pass is in perfect time with eachother it sounds just like linear phase in the sum….. you can only hear a phase change against something with different phase

so….. this method sounds better and performs better then the minidsp method….

matbe there’s works better in a home where PLd is equal, comb filters are so minor and are laughingstock to what we have to deal with….

this way is far superior for car
 

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has anyone noticed whether or not DIRAC tuning has compensated for less than optimal driver install locations?

I don't know that my situation qualifies as significantly impactful in terms of whatever DIRAC is going to do to "correct", but I'm debating about putting my CDT 2" widebands in my sail panels as opposed to my A-pillars since customizing my sail panels would be an easier job.

Yes, a driver in the sail panel more directly contends with the door glass reflections.

Alternatively, a drive in the A-pillar contends with both the windshield and dash reflections.

But, in the context of what DIRAC does, do either of these situations where the drive is closer in proximity to one reflective surface(s) as opposed to another really matter when either of them will effectively be within the same line of sight to my ears? They'll essentially be either on-axis or just slightly off-axis in either case.

thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #486 ·
has anyone noticed whether or not DIRAC tuning has compensated for less than optimal driver install locations?

I don't know that my situation qualifies as significantly impactful in terms of whatever DIRAC is going to do to "correct", but I'm debating about putting my CDT 2" widebands in my sail panels as opposed to my A-pillars since customizing my sail panels would be an easier job.

Yes, a driver in the sail panel more directly contends with the door glass reflections.

Alternatively, a drive in the A-pillar contends with both the windshield and dash reflections.

But, in the context of what DIRAC does, do either of these situations where the drive is closer in proximity to one reflective surface(s) as opposed to another really matter when either of them will effectively be within the same line of sight to my ears? They'll essentially be either on-axis or just slightly off-axis in either case.

thoughts?
the 2” paper speaker as a tweeter…. I’m sure it’s a good speaker but I would never want my 5k+ response coming from a paper cone driver

Dirac will handle it beautifully. So no worry’s there, but it can’t make a cone driver sound like a dome.

like I ran Dirac on a 2022 tacoma With stock speakers , factory deck and added a Jl stealth box

did an 8ch amp (xd8008) and ran everything off the 8ch active to 4ch upfront , rears and subs bridged on two ch

the Tacoma has 2” mid tweets as well with small 3.3uF caps and I ran it

dirac got rid of the factory 2nd order all pass on the right side door at 250hz , amazing job there

the highs sounded good, has a lot of hysteris distortion. The cone simply was breaking up at higher volumes and even at low volumes the 5k range wouldn’t project.

that being said! I don’t know the cdt , and the stock Toyota driver is a pos! So ……

i would go for a good tweeter. Maybe the AF gB15 or the like… or a stevens SA1 tweeter something that can play to 1800 acoustically
 

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@oabeieo - thanks for the insight! So, would you say Dirac makes a steak out of a Taco? ;) Though, I do love me some tacos whatever the protein :D

The CDT Unity 8.0 has a decent reputation for reproduction at 450Hz on up. Given that I'm 44 and my hearing isn't great about 16KHz, I'm hoping it'll be satisfactory. If it isn't, then I'll always have the option of adding a tweeter. I'm anxious to hear the tonality of this driver and see how it goes. I bought them NIB from another user here for a fraction of the cost of it's wideband peers (RAM, HAT, AF, Aries, etc.).

But, given the DIRAC capabilities, trying the CDT driver in the sail first will be faster and easier for me to accomplish vs. building a a-pillar pod. It'll also be less conspicuous since my vehicle came with a factory tweeter in the sail.
 
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Discussion Starter · #488 ·
@oabeieo - thanks for the insight! So, would you say Dirac makes a steak out of a Taco? ;) Though, I do love me some tacos whatever the protein :D

The CDT Unity 8.0 has a decent reputation for reproduction at 450Hz on up. Given that I'm 44 and my hearing isn't great about 16KHz, I'm hoping it'll be satisfactory. If it isn't, then I'll always have the option of adding a tweeter. I'm anxious to hear the tonality of this driver and see how it goes. I bought them NIB from another user here for a fraction of the cost of it's wideband peers (RAM, HAT, AF, Aries, etc.).

But, given the DIRAC capabilities, trying the CDT driver in the sail first will be faster and easier for me to accomplish vs. building a a-pillar pod. It'll also be less conspicuous since my vehicle came with a factory tweeter in the sail.
so you know there is only one way to find out

Haha , I bet it’s very decent…. Steak tacos? Perhaps that sounds good to me
 

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@oabeieo - thanks for the insight! So, would you say Dirac makes a steak out of a Taco? ;) Though, I do love me some tacos whatever the protein :D

The CDT Unity 8.0 has a decent reputation for reproduction at 450Hz on up. Given that I'm 44 and my hearing isn't great about 16KHz, I'm hoping it'll be satisfactory. If it isn't, then I'll always have the option of adding a tweeter. I'm anxious to hear the tonality of this driver and see how it goes. I bought them NIB from another user here for a fraction of the cost of it's wideband peers (RAM, HAT, AF, Aries, etc.).

But, given the DIRAC capabilities, trying the CDT driver in the sail first will be faster and easier for me to accomplish vs. building a a-pillar pod. It'll also be less conspicuous since my vehicle came with a factory tweeter in the sail.
I put the CDT 8.0s in my older brother's Jeep, on the dashboard firing up (off-axis) in a 2-way active setup. They sound pretty good! This doesn't directly answer your Dirac question, as I did not install a Dirac DSP in his car. It doesn't sound as good as my 3-way active (which also has the unfair advantage of Dirac), especially way up top, but I prefer it to a 2-way active using tweeters, specifically because now he's got 600Hz+ coming from above the dashboard. Btw, I had better lock crossing those 8.0s around 600Hz, versus 450ish. YMMV. It seemed over strained at lower frequencies, which makes sense since it's a very small driver.
 
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@Anu2g - thanks for the experiential input on the Unity 8! I bought a cap to protect them from 250Hz down based on CDT's recommendation to cross at 250Hz or higher (FS = 200Hz). So when I run the Dirac sweeps, it should be okay and yeah, I'll certainly seek to cross higher if my Morel Virtus MW6 mid blends well at that higher frequency to take as you point out, the lower-midrange bands off it's palate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #491 ·
If it’s a cone driver I wouldn’t use a protective cap for measurements as that cap will be a phase shift as well (unless you leave it on)

a cone driver should be able to handle any lows for a few sec at a time with sweeps at lower volumes….

i would be more interested in having perfect phase, even tho the HP is leading, it still comes out at 45deg ahead of time (it’s a funky thing with caps….. they can sorta in a weird way see the future)

but that’s just me , even tho I know Dirac will correct for it i still like anal like that
 

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Dirac Live 3.3.1 is out, although looks like just bug fixes.

I haven't tried the new Auto method introduced in 3.3.0 - planning on doing a new full measurement with the 7 channel method. It appears this is still valid and only means skipping my own curve part, no?
 
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@hella356 - did 3.3.1 just release today?

If so, does these mean another firmware update for the 8x12DL? or just updating the Dirac software on the computer?
 

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Just DL. Hasn't been a firmware update by miniDSP in a while.
 

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Dirac Live 3.3.1 is out, although looks like just bug fixes.

I haven't tried the new Auto method introduced in 3.3.0 - planning on doing a new full measurement with the 7 channel method. It appears this is still valid and only means skipping my own curve part, no?
Yea, the guide still holds completely true. You just get two curve options:
1) Use DL's default curve, which gives you a vertical slider on the top end and vertical slider on the low end. If you go with this approach, be sure to adjust the sliders to the same values for all channels
2) Or, use your own curve per the guide; if you do that, there is a little icon on the top right of each channel that you have to click in order for it show the "classic" view. It will make sense when you're in there.

I'm hoping to update the guide with new screenshots this weekend. Have been struggling to get around to it. If you have any issues while doing your tune, feel free to DM me.
 

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Thanks! I don't expect that will be too difficult to navigate.
 
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Discussion Starter · #497 ·
Did Remote Desktop and helped Justin (screen name???) setup his 8x12….. his car (Mercedes’ or Lexus couldn’t tell) super sweet car…. Has dynaudio esotecs all the way…. My goodness what a sweet setup…. Hope he made it through all the measurements…

I was able to set up dsp , and get one measurement taken , and show him the targets and curtains……

so if anyone needs help , I can remote help
 

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Discussion Starter · #498 ·
Here’s a good read

 

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Anyone successfully take Dirac measurements with the engine on? When I try that, I get the error saying there's too much background noise. I've tried adjusting mic gains and master output but to no avail.

The problem is my car doesn't have an accessories power state. Stereo only comes on with engine on.

My work around is feasible - I can set the DSP to turn on always (whenever connected to 12v). But that means uninstalling my sub to access the DSP, reinstalling the sub to take measurements, then uninstalling sub to re-set DSP, then reinstalling sub again for normal play. So it's just time consuming.
 

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Anyone successfully take Dirac measurements with the engine on? When I try that, I get the error saying there's too much background noise. I've tried adjusting mic gains and master output but to no avail.

The problem is my car doesn't have an accessories power state. Stereo only comes on with engine on.

My work around is feasible - I can set the DSP to turn on always (whenever connected to 12v). But that means uninstalling my sub to access the DSP, reinstalling the sub to take measurements, then uninstalling sub to re-set DSP, then reinstalling sub again for normal play. So it's just time consuming.
tried my first tune today with dirac and had no luck with car running.

I think your best bet is to wire up a 3 position switch to manually apply 12v turn on to the minidsp (car accessory ON, Off, and 12v jumper from +12). Route the switch to a easy to access location.
 
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