[dsoccer1017]

Hey, I'm building my box (3x 10s with 2 amps all in one) and the amps are located at the very end of the car, with the subs inbetween the the amps and the rest of the car. To make it a clean install, I want to run the cables through the sub airspace to the amps. But in the off chance I need to take the whole thing out, the cables would all be siliconed to the box and wouldn't be able to take it out.

I want to make them so I can disconnect the cables (does not need to be with ease) from the back of the box and take the box out. I am going to use a female-female for the rcas and now I'm stuck on the power wire. I read a good bit around here and keep seeing these:

Parts Express:4 AWG Breakaway Power Connector 175A

Which work for me, except I only need to use one side of it, and kinda expensive. Are there any other solutions I can do? Perhaps a conductive bolt through the back of the box and connect both sides of the wire (don't like that, too much metal exposed)? Any ideas, or should I use the parts express and just leave one open?

Thanks alot

 

[Lanson]

Drop by radio shack, and dig around for a cheap but solid connector. This should be a quick find.

 

[ErinH]

what? are you just looking for a box terminal to disconnect the sub box from your system quickly? I'm a bit confused by your saying you want to disconnect from the back of the box.

Subwoofer Terminal Cup for Speaker Boxes

 

[dsoccer1017]

.....that easy? I've been googling/diymaing all day haha

 

[ErinH]

surely, I'm just misunderstanding you, but if not...

if the only thing you want to do is remove your subbox from your car quickly, then, yes, the one I linked is all you need. Radio Shack sells them... at least the ones near me do. Any install shop should have them.

You'll still have bare wires sticking out of your amp, so you'll want to put electrical tape around the ends so they don't ground out. if you think you'll have the sub box out for a while, you might want to use a barrier strip in line with the wires.then you can just unscrew the wires from the barrier strip and the exposed wires wouldn't be so exposed.

something like this
2 Terminal Barrier Block - 10 AWG | Cinch | 28F722


So, two options:
#1. Terminal block on the sub box. But, you will have exposed wires so use electrical tape if your wires have the chance to touch.... or just remove them from the amp, too.
#2. Barrier strip somewhere in your car where you can easily unscrew and disconnect the wires going to the speaker box from the barrier strip.

 

[Onyx1136]

OK, let me make sure I have this right. You want to route your power wire THROUGH your through the subwoofer enclosure? And you need a quick disconnect so you can still remove you enclosure easily? Sounds easy enough. the connector from parts express would work fine, but it sounds like your looking for a more aesthetically pleasing option.

Stinger SPT824 (Gold) Ring Terminals Adaptors, Connectors, and Wire Terminals Car Accessories and Installation Car Audio and Video - Sonic Electronix

try using 4 of those. run the piece of 4 gauge through the enclosure, leaving enough on each side to attach the ring terminal, then attach another ring terminal to each run of power wire before and after the enclosure, then use a brass screw and nut to attach them to each other. it's not the greatest solution but it would work. and make sure you still use a barrier terminal strip or a connection cup so you can disconnect the speaker wire running to the subs. good luck.

 

[dsoccer1017]

The box is one large box that has the sealed subs inbetween the the amps and rest of car. My only issue is the 4 awg power wire.

The power wire comes from under the backseat, and where it meets the back of the box is where I want a disconnect in the power wire....does that help?

Basically I'm looking for something along the line where I can break it and disconnect and reconnect as I please.

 

[gijoe]

Why not use a distribution block? Mount it by the amp, run your power wire to it and if you need to take the box out just disconnect the main wire at the distribution block.

 

[Onyx1136]

actually, once I thought about it a little more, I decided there had to be a better way than the one I posted. so I looked a little more, and I think this might be more what you're looking for:

StreetWires DB0480 (str-db0480) Power Distribution Blocks Distribution Blocks Amplifier Installation Car Accessories and Installation Car Audio and Video - Sonic Electronix

just mount one on each side of the enclosure, and don't use the 8 gauge spots. really there are a ton of different ways you could do this using products that are easily available to you, but none of them are actually meant for it. you're just going to have to look a little and be creative wth what's out there. think outside of the box a little. you could do it using a battery post mounted into the the side of the box and some ring terminals. or go with your original idea and get some metal stock and run it through the box. that could actually look really trick. solid piece of copper with a machined terminal on the end to accept a ring terminal. I think that would look awesome if it was done correctly. anyway, just look at power wire accessories and be creative. just because it says it's a fuse block or ground block doesn't mean you can't use it for something else. good luck.

 

[dsoccer1017]

If I mount it by the amps, the power wire still needs to go through the sub airspace, ie needs to be siliconed up.

 

[dsoccer1017]

actually, once I thought about it a little more, I decided there had to be a better way than the one I posted. so I looked a little more, and I think this might be more what you're looking for:

StreetWires DB0480 (str-db0480) Power Distribution Blocks Distribution Blocks Amplifier Installation Car Accessories and Installation Car Audio and Video - Sonic Electronix

just mount one on each side of the enclosure, and don't use the 8 gauge spots. really there are a ton of different ways you could do this using products that are easily available to you, but none of them are actually meant for it. you're just going to have to look a little and be creative wth what's out there. think outside of the box a little. you could do it using a battery post mounted into the the side of the box and some ring terminals. or go with your original idea and get some metal stock and run it through the box. that could actually look really trick. solid piece of copper with a machined terminal on the end to accept a ring terminal. I think that would look awesome if it was done correctly. anyway, just look at power wire accessories and be creative. just because it says it's a fuse block or ground block doesn't mean you can't use it for something else. good luck.

your first idea was my original solution, except i thought there would be too much exposure....not sure if i was comfortable with that. I also thought of the idea i quoted, but figured there must be an even cheaper route.... maybe if i sleep on it some more i can combine a few ways....who knows, but if all else fails i think the block may be my best, cleanest route....thanks alot guys

 

[gijoe]

If I mount it by the amps, the power wire still needs to go through the sub airspace, ie needs to be siliconed up.

If I understand what you are doing, that shouldn't be a problem. Run your main wire to the input of the distribution block. Run wire from that to the one amp, then other run through the box to the other amp. If you mount the block to the box, you'll only have to disconnect the main wire into the distribution block, then remove the entire box.

 

[Aaron'z 2.5RS/WRX]

The box is one large box that has the sealed subs inbetween the the amps and rest of car. My only issue is the 4 awg power wire.

The power wire comes from under the backseat, and where it meets the back of the box is where I want a disconnect in the power wire....does that help?

Basically I'm looking for something along the line where I can break it and disconnect and reconnect as I please.

What you linked to in the first post is what you want.. run power and ground to it, break both, when you need to do things, then you don't have a power wire flopping around (the power end usually comes with a cover, so no exposed connections to short to)