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Discussion Starter #1
I don't mean to flood this forum, I tried to edit my earlier post but it wouldn't let me edit the title.

Anyway, is it possible to choose a preferred box size and simply adjust the port/tuning accordingly? Or is the shape of the box vital in tuning the sub?

What is the "ideal" number when tuning a sub? JL recommends 32Hz, is that set in stone?

I want to make a cubed slot ported enclosure for a 10w3v3 but I'm having a hell of a time setting it up via BassBox pro.

Ideally I wanted to go ported but just might seal it up for the sake of no0bian ease.

Thanks :beerchug:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'd love to but the box JL recommends is either too tall and skinny or too short and fat for my truck.
 

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the shape of the box doesnt matter as long as the internal volume and the port area are followed.

to answer your question as to how to tune a box. that is somewhat subjective, but basically you setup BB6 or winISD and plug in the speaker specs. once you see how it will respond you play with box volume and port tuning until you get a nice flat response. once you do, stop fiddling ;)
 

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ALL JL boxes for their subs and other are always compromise boxes and recommend you make them bigger.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
the shape of the box doesnt matter as long as the internal volume and the port area are followed.

to answer your question as to how to tune a box. that is somewhat subjective, but basically you setup BB6 or winISD and plug in the speaker specs. once you see how it will respond you play with box volume and port tuning until you get a nice flat response. once you do, stop fiddling ;)
That's one thing that was WAY over my head when working with BassBox6. Sweet looking line graphs but they mean absolutely nothing to my simple mind.
 

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That's one thing that was WAY over my head when working with BassBox6. Sweet looking line graphs but they mean absolutely nothing to my simple mind.
you must learn grasshopper ;) none of us were born knowing how it works.

very basic, the left is 20hz and the right is 20khz. the line is a representation of how the speaker will sound at any given frequency. for a sub, if the line makes any big humps or dips between 20-100hz or so, then you have to change something. just change one or the other and see what they do.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
OK, out of these four choices which would sound better?


I've created two boxes, one sealed and one ported built to my size "wants" and compared them to JL's specs.

In theory if the graphs look the same then they should sound the same right? Or do I have this all wrong?
 

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You got man. Now move on to cabin gain.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well, my first attempt at box building was a complete failure.

Apparently it's harder to make precise cuts with a table saw than I imagined. I ended up with about an 1/8" gap.
 

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Well try again man dont just let the saw win like that. Go back and kick it's ass. :whip:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yep, round two tomorrow.
 

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On bassBox Pro 6 there is a cube shaped option.
 

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With cabin gain, most sealed setups will get you a very flat response.

I prefer low-tuned ported boxes to get sort of a "house curve" (slight rise in response from ~25-50hz)...
 

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the difference between your box and JLs box is almost non-exsistant, so I wont comment seperately. the sealed will have a more flat response, but will roll off sooner (at higher freq) the ported design there looks pretty good. you have a little hump around 30hz, but you wont hear it. if you want to smooth that hump out, tune it lower.
 

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the difference between your box and JLs box is almost non-exsistant, so I wont comment seperately. the sealed will have a more flat response, but will roll off sooner (at higher freq) the ported design there looks pretty good. you have a little hump around 30hz, but you wont hear it. if you want to smooth that hump out, tune it lower.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
On bassBox Pro 6 there is a cube shaped option.
Yeah, that's what I ended up using. I pussed out on a ported box for my first time.

Some how I went wrong with the table saw. I think I forgot to take the width of the blade in to consideration when cutting. Also, I made too many cuts. Now that I think about it I can just make one big 12.5" cut and one long 11" cut and make the pieces from them.

So far I'm failing Carpentry 101 :rolleyes:

I still don't know what I'm going to do about making a 9" hole on the face.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Alright, round two was a success, I've got me a solid little cube downstairs.

Should I seal the inside with Liquid Nails or is the wood glue enough?

Also, without the proper tools I think I'll save myself the headache of cutting a hole for the speaker and find a pro who can do it.

The sub is 10.5" wide and requires a 9" opening. If I wanted to have that flush look how much of a bezel should I have the guy cut in?

Sub is a JL 10w3v3-2 if that matters.

:beerchug:
 

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I always put a bead of silicone in the corners of all of my boxes. In the future, should you make any more boxes, you can buy an aluminum guide that you can clamp down beside your work to make straighter cuts with that circular saw. That's what I've always done. On my next enclosure build, I'm going to borrow my buddy's table saw. As far as the sub cut out, it is pretty simple if you have a router and a circle jig. They have routers that cost as little as $80 then go on up. To flush mount your subs, you will have to have a double baffle (2 identical sheets glued together). Go a little less than half on the depth for the outer circle first and then cut the middle circle and punch it out.

There will be a ring between the 2 circles that you will have to get rid of. To get rid of this, you could either freehand the router at the depth you cut the outer circle. Or, after you cut the 10.5" circle, cut a 10" circle at the same depth, then a 9.5" circle at the same depth, then make your 9" circle at full depth to punch the center hole out. Always work from the outside/IN. If you cut the mounting circle first, you wont have anything to pivot the router on to cut the outside circle.
 

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depends on who you ask, some will say wood glue is enough, others will insist of liquid nails on the inside. personally i would go ahead and do it, just to be sure that it is good and sealed, but the reality is that if it looks well-sealed, it probably is and even if there's a small leak, you'll probably never notice the difference.

if you have a jigsaw, that's fine for doing the cutout, just go slow. that's how i did my box cutout and speaker spacers. go slow, sand it down smooth after if you want, but it doesn't really matter because your sub is going to be covering it anyway. if not, then of course paying someone to do it is an option and it probably won't cost much since it's a quick job. you could probably rent a tool cheaper, tho.

can't tell you how much of a bezel he should cut in, that would be sub dependent, but keep in mind that you don't want to cut into the main front baffle. most of the time if you're going for a flush look, you cut two front baffles for the box and cut into the second one and mount on that, and glue them together well. if you cut into the front baffle without a double-thick front baffle, you really weaken the box at the most critical area.
 
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