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Discussion Starter #1
I have a pair of BA FS60 components in the front and they aren't cutting it. I want to upgrade to something that will sound really good. I don't know if I should buy a pair of DLS comps or try to put together something myself. I don't really have much time to play around with the system so the DLS would save time, but going DIY might save some money and sound better.

For the DLS, I was thinking either MS6 ($200) or Iridiums ($475).
For DIY mids, I was thinking of either Vifa MG or something Peerless (Seas are too deep I think).

If I go DIY, I will have 26W for the tweeter and 60W for the mid, and if I go for comps, I will have either 60W or 150W, depending on how much is needed.

What do you guys think? Would I be satisfied with the DLS MS6 or should I get the Iridiums or try to put together a DIY set? What will sound better, considering that I will not have too much time to tune everything?
 

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In your case, I'd say go DIY. When you think about it from that respect (out of the box performance with minimal tuning) there is really no disadvantage to DIY. You still have to shop around for good speakers, and really all the manufacturer is selling you ARE raw drivers and a very simple passive that isn't tuned to your car or installation.

The advantage of retail is really that you can walk into a store, get some experience with the drivers, and you get a warranty. However, the advice and support you get here is probably better Imho than anything you can get in a store, although a warranty, retail packaging, and someone you can talk to in person is important to some people.

$475 in the world of DIY buys you alot more speaker than what DLS offers. Do a search here and you will find many popular, and Imho better alternatives. The power you have is also more than sufficient.
 

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Npdang brings up a good point about warranty, and it is a good thing sometimes in some situations. The thing is, I can't remember the last time I had a quality component fail... I may just really have good luck but usually the things that I buy last long enough for me to get sick of them and sell them.

When you spend good money for a quality component, the chance of getting one with a manufacturing defect drops drastically, especially in the DIY area where you are getting way more than what you pay for. The $100 a set Seas CA18 mids that I got rival the build quality of ANY mid that I've owned, regardless of price. If they were sold my a major brand label they would cost around $250-300 a set IMO. I can absolutely guarantee you that if these ever blow on me, it was due to my own negligence. There simply arent many weak points in the design.

Also, just to give you a little confidence, I am running 37.5W(Zapco Studio 150) to each mid, and 25W(Zapco Studio 50) to each of my LPG tweets, and my system sings. It's more than plenty of power for them; they get louder than I care to play them.

Now the LPG/Seas combo is a great bang for the buck set that is used by many people including me, but I will be the first to say you should look around. There are MANY different DIY drivers that people are having good luck using here on this site and elsewhere, I just wen't with the popular one because it is "safe". Not that DLS is a bad choice, I have no personal experience but I really haven't ever heard anything but positive remarks about them. I just think this DIY thing is kind of fun, and I enjoy the discovery experience of using a driver fairly unknown to the mobile audio scene and seeing how it performs, whether it be good or bad.
 

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this is not an exact response to the thread. just something I was thinking, and I will do this if and when I buy a home MT. what about using a DIY MT set for the home, like Zaphs designs, in the car. It wont be made specifically for your car, but its really a great set. with a great crossover. not sure if retail crossovers add anything special for the car environment.
 

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npdang said:
$475 in the world of DIY buys you alot more speaker than what DLS offers.
Indeed...

DLS does offer very good products... I have sat & audiotioned several of them to know even the worst setup still sounded really good.

On the other hand for $475 you can buy a pair of tweets, mids & midbass for a 3 way component set that will best their flagship Iridium 3-way & still have money left over.

And no I am not exagerating...
 

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i was using DLS (classic then reference) before i switched to the Seas CA18... DLS doesn't compare to the CA18... they are worlds apart :D
 

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which ones, the MS6?
 

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simon21 said:
So, would a pair of LPG 25NFA and Vifa MG sound better than DLS MS6?
I began my DIY systems with the exact same setup... I actually had the LPG 25NFA, Vifa MG14 mids & PL18 for MB... The key to all your DIY setups will be tuning. Don't expect to be done tuning in 1 day, since it may take a few weeks before you notice things here & there while listening to your fav tracks.
 

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Are the power ratings you asked about in your original post for 4 ohm or 8 ohm drivers?

I think what would sound best for you is to buy a head unit with a nice active crossover built in. I believe you suggested that you will have two amplifiers so that would work beautifully.

Everyone has been talking about Seas and let me tell you they are not kidding about these speakers. I have been using my P9 to switch between a 3-way and 2-way system Sometimes I listen to my Hiqs, W12, and L18 and other times I turn off the W12 and listen to just the L18. The L18 is much more in your face but you will hear less of the subtle pieces of music and the depth not as good. What a great driver though and I haven't done any tuning for it. I actually prefer my 2-way over the 3-way CDT Eurosports I used to own.

The CDTs and my 2-ways are completely different setups but I think you will be most happy with an active 2-way install with any of the Seas drivers or even the Daytons. Spend some time properly installing the mid and tweets and I don't think the DLS speakers will come close to DIY.
 

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DearS said:
which ones, the MS6?
nope. the R6A.



new install: (ca18)



worlds apart :D

ran them both full active - the r6a was peaky at around 2khz, dunno why... cut them off around 2khz 12db lo-pass...which made my voices muddy (or maybe the driver wasn't as detailed as the ca18?)
 

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my voices were muddy resently, found out one of mids is bad. took it out and AH, I have speakers I love again. So congrats to you too. I now see how important the midrange is. Wow.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I just ordered a pair of 7" Vifa MG and a peerless 53ndt. I hope I made the right choice. I got the 4 ohm version of both. Did I get the right one? If I use a passive crossover, what will be the final ohms?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I just put in one of the Vifa's. The depth is a little more than my previous speaker, and when I roll down the window there's a click as it rolls past the speaker, but it goes all the way down. What should I do?
 

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Tnx npdang! got the idea from this forum

simon21,
install a thicker baffle?
 
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