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You can spend $450 on a lot of other drivers and achieve far better results going with an active set up, if you have the capability to do so. There's a lot other options than those for that kind of budget as well if you're staying with a passive Xover Just food for thought....
 

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I cant say I have heard the re set but I think youll be happy with the three other. The tempo seems to be a better deal if active. DLS ref is like $200 for the set (though great set) so Id compare it to the DLS gothica set in that price range which I would prefer to the morels.

But if you want to do an active set up with raw drivers the options are endless. I dont know why people are so anti passive these days. If its a good crossover and the locations are good, passive can sound great.

I would start at the dayton rs180p woofers and a tweeter that suits your preference.(soft dome, hard dome, detailed, smooth, sharp) dayton, vifa, Seas, Scanspeak, various car audio tweets.

Also scanspeak discovery woofers and scan speak illuminator tweets is a pretty safe bet.

If I had $450 to spend on speakers Id buy my boston spz60 set off me and run 250 watts a side through the passives. The midbass is pretty much the best I have ever had and I have had lots of high end 7" drivers over the years. 10 mm xmax one way but excellent midrange too. These sound great in every install I heard coaxial or comp setup. Great set
 

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I'm not anti passive, by any means.... In a properly designed home Audio system... With Mundorf caps and other high quality components... If you have the oppourtunity to go active, with the HU that he has the capability then why not??

Every car is different, I don't need my hands tied using a cheap passive crossover with $15 worth of parts choosing my crossover points, slopes, ect.. No matter where you speaker placements are... Active VS Passive in a car environment is a no Brainer.
 

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Yes i just both PIONEER DEH-80PRS i still don't have amp just thinking synchronize with speakers.
Since you have the ability to go active, with the crossovers your head unit you have the ability to run a two way configuration. So your looking at a midrange/Midbass and a tweeter... Or possibly a full range driver. I can't remember the processing limitations on your HU. What kind of car are you doing the install in?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Since you have the ability to go active, with the crossovers your head unit you have the ability to run a two way configuration. So your looking at a midrange/Midbass and a tweeter... Or possibly a full range driver. I can't remember the processing limitations on your HU. What kind of car are you doing the install in?
Car is vw touran doors are big and i can install big 7-9 midbass drivers. Looking for 2way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I cant say I have heard the re set but I think youll be happy with the three other. The tempo seems to be a better deal if active. DLS ref is like $200 for the set (though great set) so Id compare it to the DLS gothica set in that price range which I would prefer to the morels.

But if you want to do an active set up with raw drivers the options are endless. I dont know why people are so anti passive these days. If its a good crossover and the locations are good, passive can sound great.

I would start at the dayton rs180p woofers and a tweeter that suits your preference.(soft dome, hard dome, detailed, smooth, sharp) dayton, vifa, Seas, Scanspeak, various car audio tweets.

Also scanspeak discovery woofers and scan speak illuminator tweets is a pretty safe bet.

If I had $450 to spend on speakers Id buy my boston spz60 set off me and run 250 watts a side through the passives. The midbass is pretty much the best I have ever had and I have had lots of high end 7" drivers over the years. 10 mm xmax one way but excellent midrange too. These sound great in every install I heard coaxial or comp setup. Great set


I can go with passive or active i not really now just looking find best deal for me and my taste i asking best advise from you gays.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
witch tweeters is better choise with Daiton ?

Vifa BC25SC06-04 1
Vifa NE25VTS-04 1
SEAS Prestige 27TFFNC/G (H1396) 1
Dayton Audio DC28F-8 1-1/8" Silk Dome Tweeter

need some really good advise who have to heard these ? thank you
 

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The amount of power you need for dls speakers is just retarded.

Seriously sounded like ass on 75 watts. I ended up feeding them 250 and was happy.
 

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Don, don't listen to anyone trying to sell you gear

Lmao Tyrone. If ur spzs are so great you wouldn't be trying to sell them to everyone
 

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woah did someone here just say that Morel Virtus sounds muddy?
I have must have installed and heard about 50+ cars with Virtus installed.
They are far from muddy. They sound damn clear. The only draw back is that the system can get a little too bright (not in a Focal tweeter kind of way, but in a more dynamic kind of way). Tempos are also really good for the price. I am not a fan of DLS as they have so many fakes around.

I'd go with either Morel (which ever fits your budget, but just know that Tempos are made in China, and Virtus are hand built in Israel).
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
woah did someone here just say that Morel Virtus sounds muddy?
I have must have installed and heard about 50+ cars with Virtus installed.
They are far from muddy. They sound damn clear. The only draw back is that the system can get a little too bright (not in a Focal tweeter kind of way, but in a more dynamic kind of way). Tempos are also really good for the price. I am not a fan of DLS as they have so many fakes around.

I'd go with either Morel (which ever fits your budget, but just know that Tempos are made in China, and Virtus are hand built in Israel).
may you now are these selling on ebay for around 230$ real or fake ?
 

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You need to decide if youre going active or passive, you are all over the map. The Paper Cone Dayton RS 180 it's a 7" Mid/woofer, use it along with a seas Neo tweeter will be a great combo for the $200 range, and is going to mop the floor with any $200 passive component system.. In fact passives that cost More than that.

RS 225 is an 8" mid/woofer, better suited for a 3 way as a midbass. Youre going to run into beaming problems unless you have a tweeter that can cross really low.... With a steep slope. You don't have the ability to run a 3 way active front stage, your HU doesn't have the capability.

I don't even know why your still looking at a passive system... Your hands are just too tied with passives...You have the HU to go active, 16 band Graphic EQ, T/A, Ect... All you need is a single 5 channel amp, there's a kenwood one on here for sale that will do the trick. Or 5 channels of amplification however you want to go about it.

I don't know what else to tell you...
 
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