[Live2Fish88]

Hey guys. First post! I have a 2014 Nissan Altona SV, 2.5L.

I installed two MMATS procast 12's in a sealed box and a MMATS DHC1400.1. Wired to 1ohm with knu conceptz 4ga OFC power and ground.

My head unit is a Kenwood DNX995S.

Battery is brand new optima yellowtop.

Speakers are powerboats 2xl-693 rear and 2xl-63c front.

I just got a skar audio 100.4AB for Christmas.

I'm planning on making the big 3 from some 1/0 I have on hand.

My question is, what do I need in order to make the new amplifier (for my speakers) run properly? Add another battery, alternator? I'm not looking to dump a ton of money into it and this will be what I'm running until the car goes kaput. I want to do it correct though. Somebody told me to bypass the battery current switch or something like that?

If I need an alternator, which one that won't break the bank? If a battery, can I install another yellowtop and use the existing 4ga power/ground that I ran to my Amp to hook it up? If I don't need anything, can I just install as I did my other Amp, fused directly to the battery?

Any help is greatly appreciated! I've installed many speakers, subs/sub amps and head units but never mids/highs amp with existing sub amp. Unsure on amp draws. If I could just hook up with another amp wiring kit that would be awesome but doing it right is important to me.

Thanks!

 

[sapphari]

You should run 0 gauge power wire and ground to the amps, for that much wattage. A single 4g run is not enough. I would recommend getting everything installed with your current alt and battery and only upgrade if you feel like it's needed. You might be ok with what you have.

 

[Live2Fish88]

0ga seems a bit overkill for a 1400 watt RMS and 400 watt RMS amp, no?

 

[CCole]

I agree that 0ga or 1/0 would be correct. Based on amp draw and 10-15ft run 2ga should be sufficient The amps will draw roughly 125 amps from the alt max. Even if the battery was installed in the rear I would still recommend the larger gauge. From experience I run nothing smaller than 1/0 in any install for my personal vehicles. Since you already have a decent battery I would recommend contacting the guys a Mechman or Stinger. This may not be required but will help make your install more bulletproof. My $.02. I do have to admit that I LOVE headroom. Some Skar amps have issues failing when not delivered enough voltage or amperage. Some manufactures go into protect. Skars do as well but a lot of time don't come out of protect.

 

[Live2Fish88]

I agree that 0ga or 1/0 would be correct. Based on amp draw and 10-15ft run 2ga should be sufficient The amps will draw roughly 125 amps from the alt max. Even if the battery was installed in the rear I would still recommend the larger gauge. From experience I run nothing smaller than 1/0 in any install for my personal vehicles. Since you already have a decent battery I would recommend contacting the guys a Mechman or Stinger. This may not be required but will help make your install more bulletproof. My $.02. I do have to admit that I LOVE headroom. Some Skar amps have issues failing when not delivered enough voltage or amperage. Some manufactures go into protect. Skars do as well but a lot of time don't come out of protect.

So should I run 0ga to the back to a new battery and then 0ga to each amp as well? I don't think I can cleanly run 0ga without it being out in the open. I want it to be SAFE but CLEAN and not super expensive.

 

[sapphari]

Neither of us are recommended a second battery. CCole is recommending to upgrade to 0ga or 2ga and an alt upgrade (they mean 'Singer', no 'Stinger'). I am suggesting you upgrade to a 0ga run to the amp and see if you think you need to make additional (battery or alt) upgrades thereafter.

 

[Live2Fish88]

OK, so without being into it $900, what should I buy for my car? I have two amps... I'll run power and ground again, no big deal. How do I fit 0 gage into terminals for 4 gauge max?

Also, it's there a more professional way to install the power wire to my battery? It has the Nissan battery current module on the positive of course... battery is on drivers side and I run right down drivers side to trunk. Figure 10-12 foot run. So I run two power wires, one to each amp? I ground to seat belt bolts in back.

 

[sapphari]

Run the single 0 gauge wire back to a fuse/distribution block in the truck that has 0ga input and 4ga output. You need to fuse your power line anyhow (should also be fused at the battery under the hood).

Here's an example of the fuse/distro block: Bassik 2 Way 1/0 to 4 Gauge Fuse Distribution Block - Merchandise

 

[Live2Fish88]

OK so, a run of 0 gauge from battery under hood to the trunk. Mount that distribution block (what size fuse?) Inside the trunk and ru-use my current 4 gauge to run to amps. Do they make a ground distribution as well so I can go one into two as well, or not recommended? What wiring kit should I buy? I just need another set of RCA, remote (or is there a way to use my current remote on both?) wire and then power and ground. Thanks for the help so far guys!

 

[sapphari]

For the 4ch amp you can use a 40A fuse, for the 1400W use 120A. Basically divide the watts by 12 volts, and round up to the next size.

Yes you can use a distribution block for ground too. Yes you can daisy chain your remote wires for both amps.

This diagram might be useful (you don't need to capacitor). Amplifier wiring diagrams: How to add an amplifier to your car audio system

 

[Live2Fish88]

What knu conceptz kit for battery back?

I'll need power and ground from battery back. I have ground hooked up already, remote from head unit and RCA from head unit from one amp. I'll also need speaker wire, no idea how much!

 

[kingby]

If you are considering KnuKonceptz. I would buy this --2 Amp Wiring Kit--

Specify fuse 1 as 300Amp (for the inline fuse holder that should be installed as close to the battery as possible).
Specify 40A for fuse 2 (connect your 4AWG to this fuse location in the 2 way block for the Skar)
Specify 120A for fuse 3 (connect your 4AWG to this fuse location in the 2 way block for the MMats)

I would then order a 2 way distribution block in addition and specify links for fuse 1 and 2 locations. Feed both 4 AWG grounds from the amps to this and then your 1/0 ground from the block to the ground location.

You would be in it for under $150. I would only consider a battery/alternator if you have any problems (amps go into protect; headlights dim on big bass hits; etc..). Your current electrical system is likely good enough.

 

[Live2Fish88]

If you are considering KnuKonceptz. I would buy this --2 Amp Wiring Kit--

Specify fuse 1 as 300Amp (for the inline fuse holder that should be installed as close to the battery as possible).
Specify 40A for fuse 2 (connect your 4AWG to this fuse location in the 2 way block for the Skar)
Specify 120A for fuse 3 (connect your 4AWG to this fuse location in the 2 way block for the MMats)

I would then order a 2 way distribution block in addition and specify links for fuse 1 and 2 locations. Feed both 4 AWG grounds from the amps to this and then your 1/0 ground from the block to the ground location.

You would be in it for under $150. I would only consider a battery/alternator if you have any problems (amps go into protect; headlights dim on big bass hits; etc..). Your current electrical system is likely good enough.

Awesome. How about length of speaker wire? 30 feet? 20 feet?
13 for rca, 20 foot rca?

 

[Holmz]

OK, so without being into it $900, what should I buy for my car? I have two amps...
...

Well one could wire it up and see if there is evidence of a problem that then needs to be solved?

 

[Live2Fish88]

Well one could wire it up and see if there is evidence of a problem that then needs to be solved?

I was confused by somebody's comment about bypassing the battery current switch to allow current flow. They said it regulates current so nothing dims.

 

[drop1]

I just went though this. Thankfully I already had an alternator capable of putting out 240amps. I still had light dimming as I am running potianlly running up to 4000w at any give moment.
I put in a an x2 battery by northstar (agm) and a small stinger capacitor (10 farad) and ran a dedicated 1/0 wire from my factory battery grounding point to the same point I ground my amps.
Doing those things 100 percent eliminated light dimming, even when im pushing near 140db of bass and my whole system sounds better at full volume. I have about 10db more of usable volume than before the upgrades (thats twice as loud without distortion).
I already had 1/0 which is larger than zero Guage power wire.

 

[CCole]

What knu conceptz kit for battery back?

I'll need power and ground from battery back. I have ground hooked up already, remote from head unit and RCA from head unit from one amp. I'll also need speaker wire, no idea how much!

Don’t forget when the car is running your electronics are pulling power from the alternator. The reason most add a second battery is to allow longer demo times and people who do a lot of hard hitting and driving low speeds for long times. Not the only reasons for a second battery(I’m running dual charging systems one for car and one for stereo) but most common.
-tip: if you’re running a single new speaker wire to your door speakers, run 2. I prefer 14/4 straight wires but 2 16/2 or 14/2 would be fine. This gives you the flexibility to run your same door speakers active without much effort.

if the 1/0 or zero is difficult to hide under interior trim you have the option of running it under the vehicle. High and tight. I use 3/4” automotive vacuum tube to protect when the wire is run through holes or in possible wear places.

 

[Live2Fish88]

Don’t forget when the car is running your electronics are pulling power from the alternator. The reason most add a second battery is to allow longer demo times and people who do a lot of hard hitting and driving low speeds for long times. Not the only reasons for a second battery(I’m running dual charging systems one for car and one for stereo) but most common.
-tip: if you’re running a single new speaker wire to your door speakers, run 2. I prefer 14/4 straight wires but 2 16/2 or 14/2 would be fine. This gives you the flexibility to run your same door speakers active without much effort.

if the 1/0 or zero is difficult to hide under interior trim you have the option of running it under the vehicle. High and tight. I use 3/4” automotive vacuum tube to protect when the wire is run through holes or in possible wear places.

Why would I want to run my speakers active? I currently have them hooked up to HU power, so they're active now, right?

I guess I'll see how it does after the install of new wire. What can I check to better see if it'll be fine?

 

[Live2Fish88]

And also, how can I better install the power wire on my Nissan with that stupid fusible link on the positive terminal besides the ring terminal and taking the nut off the positive clamp?