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Discussion Starter #1
was hoping i could get some guidance on this. honestly, i'm not so sure why it's bugging me so much but i keep second guessing myself. i only included power and signal turn-on, signal flow i have down. the remote/switched lead going to the relay and then to the blue sea block is what's throwing me. let me know if this looks ok or if not, please correct me.

oh, and im using the high level output of the factory uconnect to feed the rf360.3 if that helps.
 

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So the DSP is turned on when it senses a signal from uconnect, and then the DSP is supposed to turn on the amps?

What is the square w/ a cross in it supposed to be? And what is the box w/ NEG, POS, and FUSED supposed to be?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So the DSP is turned on when it senses a signal from uconnect, and then the DSP is supposed to turn on the amps?

What is the square w/ a cross in it supposed to be? And what is the box w/ NEG, POS, and FUSED supposed to be?
so yes, the dsp should use the high level signal sense to then send a remote turn-on out. i believe the 360.3 can turn on up to 3 amps, but i'm also looking to turn on things like fans (box with the 'x') and maybe some led's. so that's why i am thinking the remote out from the dsp to a relay which then goes to the blue seas systems distro block (other red/black box). this, then, could turn on all the amps, fans and lights.
 

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Well then it looks good to me. I did note that u have 2 power and 2 ground wires running to Amp 2, but I'm guessing that's just a mistake in the diagram.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
ok, i need some more help here apparently. fired it up, no power. the 360.3 gave me a red light, and then went away telling me there's an issue somewhere, but i don't know where. it is being fed signal from the hu oem speaker wires as a high level sense turn-on, hopefully. i know everything's getting power, all fuses are good, but nothing turns on leading me to think it's a turn on issue and not power. do you guys see anything inherently wrong about this diagram? the relay is brand new, do i have it wired incorrectly? i'd expect the dsp needs to be turned on before anything else could, so i wonder if i have a loop of sorts going on.
 

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it is being fed signal from the hu oem speaker wires as a high level sense turn-on, hopefully. the relay is brand new, do i have it wired incorrectly? i'd expect the dsp needs to be turned on before anything else could, so i wonder if i have a loop of sorts going on.
The relay is wired correctly. In fact, it all looks to be wired correctly, assuming the box w/ the R is distro block for your remote turn-on feed.

I'm thinking the issue is w/ the signal from the factory HU not turning on the DSP. To test this, I would disconnect terminal 86 from the DSP and apply 12V there. I think u will find that all of your amps turn on when u do this. Then I would reconnect 86 to the DSP's remote wire.

Go to the DSP and find its 12V remote turn-on terminal. Apply 12V there and I bet your DSP will turn on and activate the relay, and that will turn on all of your amps.

Assuming all of that works, then u know that the problem has to do w/ the DSP getting a turn-on signal from the factory HU. I've heard that newer factory HU's will shut down their speaker outputs if they don't sense the proper range of impedance, so the HU may not be sending a signal to the DSP.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
just got off the phone with RF and they essentially said the same thing, but only as it pertains to the dsp not getting power. apparently the high level turn on is about 90% effective and it may not have the full 6v to effectively turn it on. i will try this out here soon, when it's not too hot out, and see if it works.

that being said, after much research, the 8.4 unconnect system in my jeep apparently needs to sense resistance to work, so upon consensus on forums, it requires a 5w47ohm inline resistor, which i've installed just before the dsp on each of the 8 channels from the hu. do you think that is hurting/helping the situation?

also, assuming i can't get the dsp to turn on from the hu, how could i get the system to turn on? i'm really hoping i don't need to get a loc, etc.
 

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the 8.4 unconnect system in my jeep apparently needs to sense resistance to work, so upon consensus on forums, it requires a 5w47ohm inline resistor, which i've installed just before the dsp on each of the 8 channels from the hu. do you think that is hurting/helping the situation?

also, assuming i can't get the dsp to turn on from the hu, how could i get the system to turn on? i'm really hoping i don't need to get a loc, etc.
There's really 2 potential issues with using the HU speaker lead as a turn-on remote. 1) The resistor has to be the proper ohm load to trigger the HU to send a signal. 2) The signal has to be strong enough for the DSP to reliably sense it.

Set your voltmeter to AC voltage and connect the positive lead to the DSP's remote terminal. Connect the negative lead to the negative speaker wire from the factory HU. If there's no voltage, the resistor is the wrong value or has failed. If there's less than 6V, then the signal isn't strong enough for the DSP to sense. If the voltage is more than 6V, then then problem is elsewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thanks for your help! i tested a few things tonight and found that it's likely the output signal from the hu. i tested the voltage at the battery and at every power intersection and it tested consistently at appx 14v along every point. i gave pin 86 a 12v direct and everything powered up. i then gave the rem in on the dsp a 12v direct in, and it powered up with a white light (meaning it's operation, no issues) and everything else turned on as well. so, it looks like everything was wired up correctly, it just needs something to turn the dsp on.

i tested the voltage as you described and got a really low number. i did the same for every channel, same thing, but i apologize, i don't remember the number. i then removed the hu and tested the bypass harness and got similar numbers, but again i didn't remember. so i removed the harness and plugged the oem harness back in and i got sound from the rear speakers. so i tested the output at the harness and got ratings from .020-.080, staying close to .050 on avg. this happened for the inner 4 channels, which must be the the rears as the outer 4 outputs gave me no number. now, if i remember correctly, the rating i got when testing at the dsp was probably similar. so does this mean that the output on the hu is seeing the correct resistance, but it's just a super lower signal? and, am i even testing this correctly?
 

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When u got sound from the rear speakers, how loud were they playing? Like, u could barely hear it, it was normal conversation level, or was it really loud?

I can only think of 2 scenarios where u would get numbers that low. 1) There is a factory amp in the system, and u measured a line-level signal from the HU to the amp. And the volume setting was really low. 2) Some kind of measurement error, like your voltmeter leads weren't hooked up correctly or it wasn't set to the correct scale.

And just to clarify, u have 8 resistors in place. Each resistor runs from the + lead of each channel to the - lead of that same channel. And the remote for the DSP is connected to the + lead just before the resistor. Is all that correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
when i got sound from the rears i had unplugged the bypass harness i was using and plugged the oem harness back in, which would be stock, so the sound came out at normal level. the volume on the headunit was low, so output was probably conversation level which makes sense. i had the volume knob unplugged as it's part of the a/c control bezel i had to remove.

so, i think i have two problems, both of my making; i'm not testing properly and i may have wired it incorrectly. so, my understanding is that i needed to wire a resistor, in line, for each of the 4 channels (pos and neg) making a total of 8 resistors. this was then connected at the barrier strip that was connected to each of the corresponding wires and fed to the dsp. you can see that i labelled each channel per the color.

i'm using the following dmm, btw.


so, what exactly should i test assuming i fix my connections?
 

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Think about how the stock setup works -- the speaker signal comes out the + lead of the stock HU, goes thru the speaker coil (which probably has a resistance of 4-6 ohms) and then goes thru the - lead back to the HU. If the HU doesn't sense the proper ohm load, it shuts down that speaker output.

The resistors are intended to take the place of the stock speakers. Very important: THE RESISTORS HAVE TO CONNECT FROM THE + SPEAKER LEAD TO THE - SPEAKER LEAD OF THE SAME CHANNEL. In other words, they have to connect to the speaker wires the same way the stock speaker would normally connect.

When u said u had 8 resistors, I thought there were 8 output channels from the HU -- some stock systems have a separate channel for each woofer, tweeter, sub, etc. But if it only has 4 channels, then u only need 4 resistors.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
ah, ok, of course that makes sense. i'd never had to do this, so i wasn't quite sure how to do it. so, i would simply need to connect one end of the resistor to + and the other to -. and, essentially, this could be done at any point, so i could use the barrier strip as well, correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
ok, so i removed the 8 resistors from each wire and now only have 4, one for each channel. i've simply snipped the section containing the resistor and turned it into a small 'jumper' of sorts which i have hooked up to the barrier strip along with the factory wires.

i also put the oem speakers back in, factory harness, and everything fired up fine. i unplugged the harness, replugged the aftermarket one i'd been using, and the dsp still won't turn on. so i went back to oem speakers, turned the volume up/down and took readings on the acv section at the speakers and got readings from .05 - 1.0, on average of about .7 for half volume.

will i simply not have enough voltage to turn on the dsp? starting to get frustrated, but i appreciate the help for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
ok, some good news; i have power to the dsp and everything else. upon hooking it back up last night, in the dark, i forgot the 12v to the dsp. i plugged that in, and i have sound now! thank god that part is out of the way, thanks for your patience in helping me. now i need to get this dsp up to date and programmed.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
spoke too soon...

so, i've got a few issues that i didn't expect. here's what happened chronologically; after i connected the power wire, i thought the dsp was turning off. i came back out with a laptop to try and update the dsp, which will be another issue, but it wasn't registering on my computer, so i checked it out and of course, white light means nothing connected. i thought a power cycle might alleviate this, and this is where i found that the dsp wasn't turning off, but it was staying on. so, i can't confidently say the hi level wires were actually turning it on or not. i thought removing the input harness would help, but by removing that, the whole system shut off. i also noticed the fans weren't on, so i checked and sure enough, the fuse had blown. so, i replaced it while still connected and they started right up. ok, no big deal. i then unplugged both harness, power/input, and plugged back in. this time my amps all went into protection and the fuse for the power lead to the relay had blown. so, i replaced it in real time and it blew immediately.

i hate this stage of an install. is my relay wired incorrectly?
 

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white light means nothing connected. this is where i found that the dsp wasn't turning off, but it was staying on. so, i can't confidently say the hi level wires were actually turning it on or not.
U said earlier that a white light meant that the DSP was powered up and working correctly. So the problem here is that the DSP should have turned off, but didn't, correct? With the vehicle off, check voltage at the high-level input terminal just to see if the stock HU is doing something weird.

i thought removing the input harness would help, but by removing that, the whole system shut off.
Does the input harness include the high-level input that's supposed to turn on the DSP? If so, then of course removing the input harness would shut off the DSP. And since the DSP turns on everything else, it makes sense that shutting it off would shut down everything.

i also noticed the fans weren't on, so i checked and sure enough, the fuse had blown. so, i replaced it while still connected and they started right up. ok, no big deal. i then unplugged both harness, power/input, and plugged back in. this time my amps all went into protection and the fuse for the power lead to the relay had blown. so, i replaced it in real time and it blew immediately.
So the DSP was powered up, but the fans weren't working? It sounds to me like a short in the wiring for the fans. After u unplugged and plugged back in, u moved the wiring around and made the short worse. That would explain the blown fuses. And since the relay output also activates the amps, a short in any wiring connected to that relay output terminal would also connect the activation terminals of the amps to ground. That would cause them to go into protect mode.
 
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