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Sith Lord
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Today I officially began the audio on Darth... if you don't count upgrading the factory head unit...

First, meet Darth


Now, what I plan on this system looking like:
Head Unit - RNS-510 >> OEM Navagation
Processing - AudioControl EQL
Amplification - Phoenix Gold SD800.4
Tweeters - Dayton ND20FB-4
Midrange - Dayton RS75-4
Midbass - RS180-4
Subwoofer - RSS265HO-4

Knukonceptz interconnects
RAAM Audio sound deadening

Goals:
Currently this is our only vehicle and is driven daily by my wife. So, I didn't want to go full bore on this vehicle. I'll save that for when we buy our next car. I want to utilize as many of the "cubbies" in the rear of the car to hide components to have a completely stealth look, but still keep full access to the spare tire (since my wife is the main driver). I will use the factory speaker locations and use this system to learn how to make good passive crossovers.
 

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Sith Lord
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Now, the reason I decided to get this started today...


I replaced the factory headlights and added OEM fog lights...



I had to remove the battery tray and run a trigger wire through the firewall for the fog lights so it was a perfect time pull the power wire through too.

The place I went through had nipples on it that were removable and made a path for said wire.



It made it pretty easy to pull them both through at the same time.



So this is how I left it for the day (had to watch my Sooners win in South Bend :D)


I am looking for some advice on the placement of the fuse holder.
You can see above the area where the battery and fuse holder reside, below is where the factory ground is and I'm thinking of making something to mount on there...


Does anyone else have a good idea?

Tomorrow the plan is to pull out the interior, deaden the floorboard, and run wiring...
 

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Looks great. I really like the Jetta Sportwagens, and stealth installs, so I'm looking forward to your progress. It's a great all-around car.

The area where you have the black TechFlex rolled up looks like a great spot for a main system fuse or marine circuit breaker. Make a bracket for it out of 1/8"x2" Aluminum flat stock that will attach to one of the nearby Torx/Star bolts (the upper headlight bracket?). The area where the OEM Ground is attached looks like it would interfere with opening the adjacent plastic box cover.

Do you have any photos of all of the factory speaker locations? Does it have a 3-way front OEM setup? Just wondering why you opted for a DIY 3-way front setup since it will be running passive X/O's with no T/A? Seems like it would be a bit more difficult to integrate, and I've never had a problem achieving great SQ with a 2-way. I'd generally go with a larger mid-bass driver if doing a 3-way, but I understand if you are trying to use stock locations and keep it stealth.

You've chosen some great drivers, so it should end up sounding great. Sub'd.
 

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Sith Lord
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Looks great. I really like the Jetta Sportwagens, and stealth installs, so I'm looking forward to your progress. It's a great all-around car.
Thanks!

The area where you have the black TechFlex rolled up looks like a great spot for a main system fuse or marine circuit breaker. Make a bracket for it out of 1/8"x2" Aluminum flat stock that will attach to one of the nearby Torx/Star bolts (the upper headlight bracket?). The area where the OEM Ground is attached looks like it would interfere with opening the adjacent plastic box cover.
The fuse box opens by sliding the cover toward the front of the car, which might interfere with placing the fuse holder in front of it...

Do you have any photos of all of the factory speaker locations? Does it have a 3-way front OEM setup? Just wondering why you opted for a DIY 3-way front setup since it will be running passive X/O's with no T/A? Seems like it would be a bit more difficult to integrate, and I've never had a problem achieving great SQ with a 2-way. I'd generally go with a larger mid-bass driver if doing a 3-way, but I understand if you are trying to use stock locations and keep it stealth.

You've chosen some great drivers, so it should end up sounding great. Sub'd.
The factory setup is 3-way... I do agree it will be difficult to get a solid center image, but I'm gonna deal with what I've got... Below is a link to a thread that Patrick Bateman started talking about the setup found in my car...

Crazy Imaging in a Stock System
 

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Sith Lord
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1,332 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Let's start this post by saying I'm glad this day is over...

Today I ran the high level from the head unit and power wire to the back of the car... Also, I got 3 sets of 16ga speaker wire through the molex and into each door...

On to the boring pics...

High level wires twisted, then tech flexed...




I think I may have found the right place for the main fuse holder, just need make something to tie the the larger torx bit...
 

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Sith Lord
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1,332 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Moved on to the doors. First thing was to remove the outer door skin...



Made sure that it was deadened...

I think molex should be a curse word... :p




Test fitment...



Then on to the real deal...



Closed up!


Zipped them up out of the way of the window and ready for when I get to adding the new speakers....


Back inside, they were tech flexed and shrink wrapped...


Then on to the obligatory zip tie pictures.. :rolleyes:




Getting near the end of my day we lost power in the neighborhood, so I had to resort to fire in order to get heat shrink shrunk...
 

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Sith Lord
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I know I had started this thread off by saying that I wanted to use this build to learn more about passive crossovers, but what I learned to this point is that they can be quite expensive to do the right way...

I priced out the basic 2nd order 3-way inductors and caps... It has come up to roughly $175... That was with crossover points picked out based on looking at response curves on PartsExpress... I had hoped to be able change out parts to tune the system to my car, that would only increase the cost and frustration I'm thinking...

Now I'm considering unloading my 2XS and EQL and picking up a MiniDSP 2x4, which I've used before and found easy enough to use. If I do that I would be back in the market for another SD800.4. Good news is that would make for a more symmetrical amp setup, and I like symmetry. :)
 

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I think it's a smart move to go with the MiniDSP. For the cost differential between it and just the parts (and the time spent building) two sets of 3-way passives, you'll obviously get a lot more functionality and adjustability with the MiniDSP (T/A, EQ, independent Level control, etc.) that you wouldn't have with the passives.

And thanks for the link to that PB thread. I had actually read it quite a while back (and had even subscribed to it, ha!) and found it really interesting, but had forgotten about it completely. :( Good stuff, and it seems to make sense. :) I'll be interested to see how it works in your install as a real world test.

Looks like you've got quite a bit done already as well! Keep it up. :)
 

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Sith Lord
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I think it's a smart move to go with the MiniDSP. For the cost differential between it and just the parts (and the time spent building) two sets of 3-way passives, you'll obviously get a lot more functionality and adjustability with the MiniDSP (T/A, EQ, independent Level control, etc.) that you wouldn't have with the passives.
After looking back into the 2x4 and the SD800.4, I wouldn't be able to use the crossovers on the amps because they only range from 40Hz-400Hz. That would not allow me to crossover my tweeters in the kHz range... I would need to find something that allows me to accept high level inputs and have 8 outs so that I can defeat the crossovers on the amps. (I could look into a LOC and a 2x8 from MiniDSP as well, but the 2x8 is already $300... might as well look into a car specific unit.)

Any recommendations? I had looked into the 3sixty.3 at one point and I see that they are much cheaper nowadays...

It just looks like this is gonna be more expensive then I had hoped. :(
 

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Any more luck deciding on a processor?
 

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Sith Lord
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Any more luck deciding on a processor?
At the moment I think I'm leaning towards a 3sixty.3, but I can definitely be swayed a different way as long as it has 8 channels out and high level in...

Do you have any thoughts?
 

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Check out my build...VERY similar install in a similar car, and I used a JBL MS-8. I am still in the process of getting it all done, but since we live in the same part of the country you are more than welcome to have a listen. Theres a meet this saturday or we can meet up some other time.

look at my thread...i was just shocked at the similarities between our installs. You might like what I did with my inline fuse holder as well (similar place as you want and I made a metal bracket for it). start at page 6 to see my latest iteration (previous pages are attempts at being happy with a simpler setup).

BTW you car looks really slick. I kind of wish I had looked more closely at the jetta sportwagon before buying my CC.
 

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Sith Lord
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Check out my build...VERY similar install in a similar car, and I used a JBL MS-8. I am still in the process of getting it all done, but since we live in the same part of the country you are more than welcome to have a listen. Theres a meet this saturday or we can meet up some other time.

look at my thread...i was just shocked at the similarities between our installs. You might like what I did with my inline fuse holder as well (similar place as you want and I made a metal bracket for it). start at page 6 to see my latest iteration (previous pages are attempts at being happy with a simpler setup).

BTW you car looks really slick. I kind of wish I had looked more closely at the jetta sportwagon before buying my CC.
Hey Dave! I have been keeping an eye on your thread for awhile now, always checking out VW stuff. :) I have every intention on showing up on Saturday, so I would definitely like to check out what you have accomplished!

I do like what you did with your fuse holder and plan on doing something very similar.

Thanks on the compliment! This wagon is the best car I've owned, hands down! So much so we've considered looking into the MKVII for our 2nd car when they make it to the states. :D
 

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Yea I was trying to convince my wife to get one but she had her heart set on a Prius. Yuk. A $34k economy car. lol this is my first Vw and I am sold. I was always a Chevy guy before but this car has transformed me.

Cool, I'm excited to go on Saturday. I am really pushing to finish the cosmetics of my install for the meet.

Quick question, didn't you have the room to run 1 or 2 sets of speaker wire under the door connector, through the bottom of the opening? I didn't think I had room originally so I drilled for 1 set of speaker wire, but when I redid everything and had to run 2 more sets I found that I had room for 2 more sets below. I do t think my connector would have enough too to drill out for 3 sets of speaker cable.

Also, I opted not to use actual speaker wire because he insulation tends to be much thicker on speaker wire. I'm not sure that 2 more sets of actual speaker would have fit how I ran it.
 

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At the moment I think I'm leaning towards a 3sixty.3, but I can definitely be swayed a different way as long as it has 8 channels out and high level in...

Do you have any thoughts?
First, use the RS225. They'll easily fit into those doors.

Second, you don't need anything with a high-level input. Recode the HU for low-level outputs, add some RCA ends on, and feed it right into your processor. That said, the mosconi 6to8 and Arc Audio PS8 will take high-level inputs. The 6to8, IME, handles the "quirks" of VW HUs the best by a wide margin. If you recode for low-level you can use which ever processor you want.
 

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Sith Lord
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yea I was trying to convince my wife to get one but she had her heart set on a Prius. Yuk. A $34k economy car. lol this is my first Vw and I am sold. I was always a Chevy guy before but this car has transformed me.

Cool, I'm excited to go on Saturday. I am really pushing to finish the cosmetics of my install for the meet.

Quick question, didn't you have the room to run 1 or 2 sets of speaker wire under the door connector, through the bottom of the opening? I didn't think I had room originally so I drilled for 1 set of speaker wire, but when I redid everything and had to run 2 more sets I found that I had room for 2 more sets below. I do t think my connector would have enough too to drill out for 3 sets of speaker cable.

Also, I opted not to use actual speaker wire because he insulation tends to be much thicker on speaker wire. I'm not sure that 2 more sets of actual speaker would have fit how I ran it.
I was able to run all three sets of 16ga speaker wire through that door connector... It took a little negotiation with them, but they went through...
 

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Sith Lord
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
First, use the RS225. They'll easily fit into those doors.

Second, you don't need anything with a high-level input. Recode the HU for low-level outputs, add some RCA ends on, and feed it right into your processor. That said, the mosconi 6to8 and Arc Audio PS8 will take high-level inputs. The 6to8, IME, handles the "quirks" of VW HUs the best by a wide margin. If you recode for low-level you can use which ever processor you want.
Thanks for the heads up! Would it be better to re-code the head unit instead of using them as high-level?
 

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It's really either or. AFAIK the outputs are flat either way. If you're using a processor that can take the Voltage I'd go high-level because it's balanced and I've always preferred high Voltage.

Look at my log an you can see how I tapped into the HU outputs. Clean and simple. I can go between high and low level in 10 minutes.
 

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It's really either or. AFAIK the outputs are flat either way. If you're using a processor that can take the Voltage I'd go high-level because it's balanced and I've always preferred high Voltage.

Look at my log an you can see how I tapped into the HU outputs. Clean and simple. I can go between high and low level in 10 minutes.
This is VERY true. I really like your method for getting the the speaker level. my way was done before finding this site (and your build log) and is effective just not as neat.

Sorry to crash this thread, but I have a strange question quality_sound...if you recode the head unit for low level out does it change the boot up screen to the Dynaudio logo? I know that the file is saved somewhere either on vagcom or in the stereo. I cant get an answer on vwvortex.
 

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If you have Dynaudio you already have low-level. ;) What you saw in my build log can be used for high OR low level extraction.

It'll depend on the version of your VCDS but you can change the load screen. The files are on the unit but you have to have a version of VCDS that will let you change that Bit. You can change the display colors on the RNS-510 as well. I used to change my every week or so just because I could.
 
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