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I also feel like it's not wiring related as both time it wasn't like the DSPs blew randomly, I was actively "working" on them, and nothing else bad has happened out of the blue
Ive installed probably over 200 DSP's. 98% of them being Helix. Ive never had one blow while troubleshooting or working on the system. I don't think I've ever had one blow at all actually. You have something wrong here.
 
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The static charge is a dead giveaway that the ground is not good somewhere. Would a speaker wire intermittently touching the chassis cause a bad ground condition?

I wonder if there’s a short from a speaker wire that unloaded into the rca’s when the rca cable hit the ground with the signal?

Regardless, you’ve absolutely got to swap out the amp(s) for known good working before you install another dsp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
The static charge is a dead giveaway that the ground is not good somewhere. Would a speaker wire intermittently touching the chassis cause a bad ground condition?

I wonder if there’s a short from a speaker wire that unloaded into the rca’s when the rca cable hit the ground with the signal?

Regardless, you’ve absolutely got to swap out the amp(s) for known good working before you install another dsp.
Speaker wire out from the amp possibly making connection with the amp itself?
Ill take a look before i rip the amps out but
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Looking at the speaker terminals they're surrounded and isolated from the amp chassis, I think even the worst install couldn't have a wire jump out and touch the amp, id imagine the speakers would probably show some issue before anything else

and yeah amps coming out, other reviews mentioned turn on pops that couldn't be sorted out so Im thinking these amps are just, not the way to go
 

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Speaker wire out from the amp possibly making connection with the amp itself?
Ill take a look before i rip the amps out but
View attachment 337814
Looking at the speaker terminals they're surrounded and isolated from the amp chassis, I think even the worst install couldn't have a wire jump out and touch the amp, id imagine the speakers would probably show some issue before anything else

and yeah amps coming out, other reviews mentioned turn on pops that couldn't be sorted out so Im thinking these amps are just, not the way to go
Yeah I was actually just thinking like a center channel bare wire touching the car chassis or something, but the amp shocking you is highly suspect and probably something to do with the issues. Strangest thing. Please update us on the RF board and if it’s got blown parts if you get a chance to look at it. I had a similar experience with shocking every time I touched the car but I sold that car and no longer have the problem. Would be interesting to see what ground issue causes that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
Yeah I was actually just thinking like a center channel bare wire touching the car chassis or something, but the amp shocking you is highly suspect and probably something to do with the issues. Strangest thing. Please update us on the RF board and if it’s got blown parts if you get a chance to look at it. I had a similar experience with shocking every time I touched the car but I sold that car and no longer have the problem. Would be interesting to see what ground issue causes that.
Just to clarify the car isn't shocking me, the amp occasionally would shock me when I touched it
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 · (Edited)
So here's the wiring into the possibly bad amp, one of the wires is exposed a little but no rouge strands coming out, main power looks fine as well

And below is the RF 3sixty.3 DSP, AFAIK the component that blew up isn't directly connected to the RCA outputs, unfortunately no schematic online so can't exactly trace what it connects to
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Yeah I checked all fuses, none look any sort of damaged
Do you have access to a multimeter that you can check resistance with? The fuse may look good when in fact it has blown. Your wiring looks fine at the amps is there anywhere along the way that they could have been pinched? Under a seat or a door jamb perhaps?
 

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You should never fuse the ground wires - only the hot (+12v) ones. It's important to maintain ground continuity no matter what; and if there's a short that's drawing inordinate amounts of current, one of the fuses in the hot side of the circuit will blow to prevent a fire.

It's possible that the amp has a bad ground - enough continuity to function, but bad enough that the chassis ground of the amp rises in voltage relative to the frame of the vehicle. High powered amps have an internal DC-to-DC converting power supply that generates more than enough voltage for you to feel it if you touch one of the amp's hot power rails. The fact that you are getting zapped touching the case of the amp makes me highly suspicious...

Just to clarify: when you get zapped, it's not a momentary thing, if you touch the amp again immediately afterwords you get zapped again, right? So - it's not a static discharge that's zapping you (like if you walk across a carpet and touch a doorknob, you get zapped once, but grabbing the doorknob again is zap-free)?
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
You should never fuse the ground wires - only the hot (+12v) ones. It's important to maintain ground continuity no matter what; and if there's a short that's drawing inordinate amounts of current, one of the fuses in the hot side of the circuit will blow to prevent a fire.

It's possible that the amp has a bad ground - enough continuity to function, but bad enough that the chassis ground of the amp rises in voltage relative to the frame of the vehicle. High powered amps have an internal DC-to-DC converting power supply that generates more than enough voltage for you to feel it if you touch one of the amp's hot power rails. The fact that you are getting zapped touching the case of the amp makes me highly suspicious...

Just to clarify: when you get zapped, it's not a momentary thing, if you touch the amp again immediately afterwords you get zapped again, right? So - it's not a static discharge that's zapping you (like if you walk across a carpet and touch a doorknob, you get zapped once, but grabbing the doorknob again is zap-free)?
Fuse was a bad word to use, bridged?
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This is the ground block

And I'd have to fire them up and test, I'm pretty sure it was just a single shock and then wouldn't happen again for a bit (maybe 30m to an hour) but my brain is maybe remembering a day where it happened very often
 

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Running parallel conductors like that is fine.

If it's just a single shock, then it could well be just static discharge - I get zapped by car frames often. Just moving around in the seat can generate quite a lot of voltage (this is why one should always wear an ESD wrist strap wired up to a good solid ground, and use a grounded ESD mat when handling unboxed electronics - i.e, bare circuit boards).
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 · (Edited)
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So for giggles I started up the amps today, jumped the remote on to constant 12v and they turned on, along with a little turn on pop so makes me think amps are def causing that

I probed the inside of the RCA and the outside the barrel on all the RCA inputs, I did get a few readings of ~5mV on the A and B channels but it wasn't consistent, nothing on the C and D channels

However on the sub amp, when reading between positive and negative across both the same RCA and the opposite (Pos of ch A and Neg of Ch B for example) I would get readings like this, the highest one I measured was about 60-70mV but could sonsitently get around 10-20mV

I'm not sure how electrically significant that is, my understanding is that amps usually look for 4v input, so .01V-.07V being less than 2% of what they would normally operate at doesn't sound like a lot, but it is also going the opposite way
 

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So for giggles I started up the amps today, jumped the remote on to constant 12v and they turned on, along with a little turn on pop so makes me think amps are def causing that

I probed the inside of the RCA and the outside the barrel on all the RCA inputs, I did get a few readings of ~5mV on the A and B channels but it wasn't consistent, nothing on the C and D channels

However on the sub amp, when reading between positive and negative across both the same RCA and the opposite (Pos of ch A and Neg of Ch B for example) I would get readings like this, the highest one I measured was about 60-70mV but could sonsitently get around 10-20mV

I'm not sure how electrically significant that is, my understanding is that amps usually look for 4v input, so .01V-.07V being less than 2% of what they would normally operate at doesn't sound like a lot, but it is also going the opposite way
A few mV of DC offset should be nothing to worry about. Turn on transients are not uncommon either.
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
Alright! After a few weeks of getting new parts, (amps, RCAs, better ground, and Helix DSP repaired) I am almost all up and running at 100%

The DSP was sent off not turning on at all, guy I sent it to got it up and running almost perfect, now my issue is the A channel isn't outputting anything...

Luckily it's a 6ch output, so I'll be switching to Ch B and C for highs, D and E for mids, and ch F for my sub (previously running E and F on subs)

Interestingly, I set up the NVX amp indoors, powered using an old PC power supply, and funnily enough it also has a turn on pop indoors, so me thinks this amp is just no good (NVX VAD10004, would not recommend personally)

The new amps have no issues at all with turn on or off pop, very low noise (still need to finalize gain set up), and the apart from the ChA problem, the Helix is running great, I forgot how clean this thing sounded, even with 0 tuning it doesn't sound bad at all

Glad I finally have audio again, and lord is this DIY a roller coaster of emotions
 
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