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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone! I've read countless posts/articles many of which came from this forum about the Esotar line and how well they go with the Tru Billet Amp line. I was wondering if someone could answer my question(s) about these amps/speakers.


If i wanted to install 2x esotar 1200 subs IB what would be the ideal way to power them both? I've seen people using B2200-S that have been upgraded to power them, but will that really give them enough power? As i have heard that they can easily handle over their power rating of 400 RMS (So i was looking for 600-750 RMS to each).

All of the statements above are highly subject to change, as this is why i'm asking your opinion :laugh: I would greatly appreciate your input!

Thank you very much.
 

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Enclosure type and listening habits would be good to know prior to floating advice....

And welcome!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you very much for your response lol! My listening habits are quite balanced and vary from day to day haha ^_^ I literally listen to most genres of music, but for the sake of narrowing I could say the most common are: Rock(In all its forms), Techno/Electronica, Hip-Hop, Metal/Metal-Core, and Ska.

As for the enclosure i've heard very good things about IB setups (Infinite Baffle i believe is the non-abbreviated form) or if that doesn't work out i will revert to sealed enclosures.

Also, not to change the subject but i did have one more scenario i wanted advice on, I see alot of people do the esotar 110/430/650 setup for their front stage, but I was wondering if it would be better to have esotar 110 and 430 with MW182's in the door. (Instead of 650's)
(Its going in an infiniti g37 so the 10" door speakers are not a problem)


Again, thank you for your reply! I would also be very grateful for any other forms of advice i could receive from others.
 

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For a 2 way I think the 650s are the way to go. They have more midbass than I've ever personally heard from a 6.5, more than I thought possible and they never get muddy . The midrange is great. Clean, clear, and detailed even when running a low 50hz highpass. I've never been able to find fault with them. About the only way I can imagine is to drive them past their mechanical limits. The 650 is no slouch down low.

With that said, if I could easily run a 10" in the door in a 3-way config, I would have to go with the MW182, the added cone area is just too much to pass up.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I definitely agree with what you are saying about the three way setup and thats exactly what i'm going for haha! But i would still like some input on powering the subs, i'm just trying to get them to optimum performance and i know that they can go far beyond the recommended RMS rating. Does anyone know what a stage IV Billet 2200-S can provide for each sub?

Thank you guys for all the input I've received thus far!
 

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I definitely agree with what you are saying about the three way setup and thats exactly what i'm going for haha! But i would still like some input on powering the subs, i'm just trying to get them to optimum performance and i know that they can go far beyond the recommended RMS rating. Does anyone know what a stage IV Billet 2200-S can provide for each sub?

Thank you guys for all the input I've received thus far!
power output is technically the same...its about the dynamics, headroom, and tailored sound that the upgrades provide
 

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If given the choice to go with the 182 in a 3-way, that's the way I'd go.

As others have said, if a 2-way, the 650 is a great choice.

As for the Billet vs E1200, I was running a single stage 3 B2200 to an E1200 (let's say 600w bridged at 4ohms) and it was WAY MORE than enough.

Keep in mind that the Billet is not designed to bridge at 2 ohms, so you can either run the subs in series and bridge the B2200 into 8ohms, run each sub off of a single channel of the 2200 (under rated at 200wpc) or perhaps consider a B4100 and bridge two sets of channels to a pair of subs (300w per side).

In all seriousness though, a single E1200 mated with the 182s is no joke. I was considering going with 2 subs originally and I find that for my tastes, it just wasn't required.
 

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If given the choice to go with the 182 in a 3-way, that's the way I'd go.

As others have said, if a 2-way, the 650 is a great choice.

As for the Billet vs E1200, I was running a single stage 3 B2200 to an E1200 (let's say 600w bridged at 4ohms) and it was WAY MORE than enough.

Keep in mind that the Billet is not designed to bridge at 2 ohms, so you can either run the subs in series and bridge the B2200 into 8ohms, run each sub off of a single channel of the 2200 (under rated at 200wpc) or perhaps consider a B4100 and bridge two sets of channels to a pair of subs (300w per side).

In all seriousness though, a single E1200 mated with the 182s is no joke. I was considering going with 2 subs originally and I find that for my tastes, it just wasn't required.
^^^As a dealer of Dynaudio and competitor, I agree with what Se7en said. First of all, for a 2-way setup, go with the 650's (for the midrange frequencies). However, in a 3-way, you will want to go with the 182's if at all possible. Rock solid midbass up front with those.

Now with the subs, in an IB installation, the subs will require much less power to reach their max excursion, so what you would give them in a sealed enclosure vs IB would be very different (this is the same with any sub). I would want a good clean 300-500 watts per sub. One should be enough with 182's in the doors. If you choose to get 2, get a 4100 and bridge the 4 channels down to 2 (1 for each sub) and you will have plenty of power and headroom (Tru has a 1000 watt power supply for transient peaks). You could also consider ARC Audio 4200se amps (same output as the TRU 4100).
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hmmmm, i looked at the ARC Audio 4200se and was fairly impressed, although what i read stated it outputs (bridged at 4 ohms) 450 x 2. Whereas the Billet only gets 300 x 2. (Although i could definitely be wrong there).

I'm also planning on using an Super Billet B6-S to power the front stage, how would you suggest setting it up with Esotar 110/430 and esotec MW182's. I have my own thoughts but I will wait until i hear a response before sharing haha.


One last question, haha (i'm sorry that i keep asking so many) do you guys have any battery/alternator suggestions? I will definitely need to be replacing these haha. I've heard good things about optima yellow tops but am unsure about how to pair it with an alternator. (This is the part of car audio i have a very small amount of experience with)

I would also like to thank you all very much for your replies they have been extremely helpful and i appreciate the time you took to respond!
 

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Hmmmm, i looked at the ARC Audio 4200se and was fairly impressed, although what i read stated it outputs (bridged at 4 ohms) 450 x 2. Whereas the Billet only gets 300 x 2. (Although i could definitely be wrong there).

I'm also planning on using an Super Billet B6-S to power the front stage, how would you suggest setting it up with Esotar 110/430 and esotec MW182's. I have my own thoughts but I will wait until i hear a response before sharing haha.


One last question, haha (i'm sorry that i keep asking so many) do you guys have any battery/alternator suggestions? I will definitely need to be replacing these haha. I've heard good things about optima yellow tops but am unsure about how to pair it with an alternator. (This is the part of car audio i have a very small amount of experience with)

I would also like to thank you all very much for your replies they have been extremely helpful and i appreciate the time you took to respond!
DC Power makes great alternators, I really like Deka and Odyssey Batterys who also makes Sears Die Hard Platinum. As long as you get a well known AGM type battery you should be in good shape
 

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Well, you're describing a very similar setup to my own.

So, with a B6S, you basically describing a 4100 and 2200 in single chassis. A B8S would be two 4100s.

If using the Super Billet to run your front stage, the b6s will give you 200wpc to the mw182, and 100 to the 430 and 110 respectively. A B8 would allow you to bridge to the mw182 for 300w per side and give you longer term flexibility if your configuration changes down the road.

If it were me, I'd probably (and actually did) go with the B8 and not the B6 for the reasons noted above.

Also, since you haven't purchased yet, go with "black" biillets. They're much faster..

Feel free to look up my install log, given the simalarities between your plans and my system.

Good luck!
 

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Wow, sounds nearly identical to my current setup, two of past ones and a dozen or so clients.

A 2200 has ample power to drive those subs, no problem at all. If planning for a Line8 (cat5 anyway) as well then you would need to change from the B6/2200 to a 4100 and a pair of 2200s.

IB, technically free air here, but it is ok to say IB. We all know what you mean. ;) Does not require a lot of power. In fact you just don't need it. However install is key for this configuration. Leaks Are your enemy big time.

Who is the dealer you are working with ? He didn't advise you of options ? Has he done this type of setup before ?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thank you for your suggestion Se7en! I may very well consider that setup now :D I have most things fully planned out. Just a few tweaks to get through.

The final system is looking like this:

Speakers:
Esotec MW182 Esotar 110/430 front stage
2x Esotar 1200's Sub Stage(I might try just one first, in accordance with all your suggestions, but i typically enjoy things that are over the top ^_^)

Amps:
Super Billet 8s powering front stage
ARC Audio 4200se powering Sub stage

The only things left to decide are the line drivers which i thought i would have to use 2x SSLD6I but after looking at the Tru Line-8(Suggested by Don) i was wondering if i could use just 1 of those. I'm not going to be using Cat5 wiring.

Also, the battery and alternator decision is haunting me lol. The highest alternator i could find was 270 amps, but the total amp rating of the two amps i will use is 270 haha (150 for SB8s and 120 for ARC) So this will not be sufficient. So i guess this question would be directed towards Se7en since he has an extremely similar setup; What alternator did you use and what is its amp rating?

Hey Don! I've read many many many threads speaking about how awesome you are :laugh: You're kinda like a car audio super-hero around here.

The install is a verified dealer of Dynaudio and has done many complex installations such as this one, but i haven't really talked to them about the amps, just the speaker configuration and placement in my car. This system is still highly in the planning stages haha.

Well, i wrote a novel haha, just wanna take one more sentence to thank you all for the help you've given so far!
 

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the battery and alternator decision is haunting me
Consider that the peak amp requirement of all your electronics is 270, and will only be that for brief (?) moments of extremely high volume/dynamic range listening. Then determine how often you will be doing that.

Based upon your taste and listening regimen:
The alternator may be able to supply what is needed, with the battery filling in the power gap for the brief moments needed.

My suggestion is to do your research, but wait to see what the need is (installed & lisetning) before doing the alt.
D
 

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Thank you for your suggestion Se7en! I may very well consider that setup now :D I have most things fully planned out. Just a few tweaks to get through.

The final system is looking like this:

Speakers:
Esotec MW182 Esotar 110/430 front stage
2x Esotar 1200's Sub Stage(I might try just one first, in accordance with all your suggestions, but i typically enjoy things that are over the top ^_^)

Amps:
Super Billet 8s powering front stage
ARC Audio 4200se powering Sub stage

The only things left to decide are the line drivers which i thought i would have to use 2x SSLD6I but after looking at the Tru Line-8(Suggested by Don) i was wondering if i could use just 1 of those. I'm not going to be using Cat5 wiring.

Also, the battery and alternator decision is haunting me lol. The highest alternator i could find was 270 amps, but the total amp rating of the two amps i will use is 270 haha (150 for SB8s and 120 for ARC) So this will not be sufficient. So i guess this question would be directed towards Se7en since he has an extremely similar setup; What alternator did you use and what is its amp rating?

Hey Don! I've read many many many threads speaking about how awesome you are :laugh: You're kinda like a car audio super-hero around here.

The install is a verified dealer of Dynaudio and has done many complex installations such as this one, but i haven't really talked to them about the amps, just the speaker configuration and placement in my car. This system is still highly in the planning stages haha.

Well, i wrote a novel haha, just wanna take one more sentence to thank you all for the help you've given so far!
That looks like a great setup. I am also a TRU/Dynaudio/ARC dealer and the SSLD6i is no longer available new as they discontinued it for the 8is, which would serve all your needs channel wise. If you are not using the Cat5 cable, then I personally would try the system without the line driver first to see if it is even necessary. I have found in most installations it is not really necessary. In order to fully utilize it, the gain needs to be set about 1/2 way up on the line driver and for my applications, this caused the system to reach peak volume way to quick. Just an honest opinion. You certainly can use one if you want the benefits of the noise rejection and conditioning it does to the signal.

If you try and stick with only 1 Dyn sub, the Arc 4200se would be a waste since you would only be using 1/2 the amp. You may want to go with a 2150se which delivers 600 watts, and then if you decide to go with 2 subs, you can add another 2150se and the other sub.

Anyway, good luck with your install and feel free to ask any questions. I'd be happy to help!

Jerry
 
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