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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here you go. I was taking my car apart to run new wiring, and found this:


Details:

Surface: Painted steel, covered in Edead liquid damping
Prep: Surface prepped with alcohol

What you're looking at is just a driveshaft tunnel, AND a heat shield was installed underneath it _before_ the deadening was applied to protect the interior from exhaust heat.





Notice where it's just plain coming off, both from being attached to other edead, and simply the backing coming undone.

I sent this image to Milne and asked for a partial refund. We'll see what happens.
 

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I sent this image to Milne and asked for a partial refund. We'll see what happens.
Prediction:

You will be told that you installed it incorrectly, be accused of having motives and a hater, and will be banned from their forum.:eek:



I got banned from their forum recently just because I mentioned I had some peeling, but wasn't sure if it had gotten any worse because I can't see it under my door panels.

I'm almost afraid to pull my door panels back off, God knows what it looks like now. If it wasn't so hot outside I'd do it today, but I'm going to have to wait a few weeks at least.
 

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it will be a cold day in hell before Ben admits to selling crap. IF he even replies, you MUST post it. ;) im curious to see what his lame excuse is.
 

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I think the problem here is that you took it out of the box and applied it. That particular product works better if you just leave it in the box and put it between the noise source and your ear. Silly guy........:rolleyes:

























:D
 

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I've got an idea, I still have some eDead v1², I mean eShit v1² left over, still on the roll and it's been inside my house. I think I'm going to run down to Home Depot and by a few pieces of flashing material then I'm going to come home and put the eDead v1² on the flashing and just hang them outside for a while and see what happens to it. I'll post pics documenting this whole affair.
 

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I have some of the original eDead from like 4-5 years ago still rocking out in my car. I tried to remove some of it the other day and it was NOT going anywhere. The aluminum backing came off before the mat did. So FWIW, it doesn't ALL fall off for everyone. But I still would shop elsewhere for deadening.
 

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I don't have it actually falling off, it seems to stick, but the mylar backing is coming off the butyl. And that still sucks.
 

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The version that sucks!:D

Mine is eDead v1² and that's what those pics looks like too. eDead v1², you know, the good stuff.:rolleyes:
Can the O.P. confirm this? I got a roll of extra gooey BXT for the most important parts (front doors) and I'll use whatever I have left over where ever I can. But I also have a roll of V1SE for whatever I can't cover with the bxt.
 

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I'll be very interested in the response you get. Funny thing is that I wouldn't put mat on top of liquid, I'd do it the other way since the surface of cured liquid is rough and porous. Problem is, ED has a video that recommends doing exactly what you did. Should not even come close to being the difference between success and failure.

Your photo seems to support my theory that the strength of the curl in the facing material exceeds the strength of the adhesive bond. In one place the facing has pulled away from the adhesive, in the others, the whole thing has peeled away from the substrate. That tight curl is exactly what I saw when I removed the adhesive from a piece. I'm guessing it will be pretty easy to get the rest off :)
 

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I've got an idea, I still have some eDead v1², I mean eShit v1² left over, still on the roll and it's been inside my house. I think I'm going to run down to Home Depot and by a few pieces of flashing material then I'm going to come home and put the eDead v1² on the flashing and just hang them outside for a while and see what happens to it. I'll post pics documenting this whole affair.
That's pretty much all I did - put some strips of a few different products on so steel and threw it in my trunk for a little more than a day - 90°F+ for the single afternoon it was out there. Brought it in and the eDead v1² was both separating from itself and pulling away from the substrate. Definitely doesn't take much time or heat to bring it to its knees. No testing or QC FTL. At .3 lbs/ft², it is hardly worth the effort. Of course you could be forgiven for thinking otherwise with ED employees making posts like this:
alexlindeman on ToyotaNation said:
Hello guys,

My name is Alex, I work for Elemental Designs.

Both of our mat products have switched to a butyl based core, with a mylar backing. This allows for better adhersion, and the mylar is easier to use, it doesnt cut your hands and allows for more mass of the actual deadener.
Anybody have any theories about how Mylar allows for better adhersion and allows for more mass for the actual deadener? That last point is a real winner.
 

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Rudeboy-So if you go liquid over deadener and then decide to add later what are your options. You know sometimes when you think its good with 2 layers of BXT then go back and wish you had done 3 or 4 because your anal, like myself. I was going to spectrum then the BXT. Guess you could add more spectrum instead of BXT if you did mat then liquid. Ok give me some more options.

Yes, I just realized I kinda answered my own question. :D
 

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That's shitty! Especially in that location. It's not like the tranny tunnel on a Vette is the hottest place in the world anyway.

I'm also curious to see what the answer from eD will be.
 

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Originally Posted by alexlindeman on ToyotaNation
Hello guys,

My name is Alex, I work for Elemental Designs.

Both of our mat products have switched to a butyl based core, with a mylar backing. This allows for better adhersion, and the mylar is easier to use, it doesnt cut your hands and allows for more mass of the actual deadener.

I have an idea how the mylar could have better adhersion.

The mylar is so light that it won't pull the the rest of the "deadener" off of whatever it's on. I agree it's easier to use, initially, that is until you have to pull it the rest of the way off and replace it with something that doesn't suck.
 

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I wonder why there is such inconsistency. I have my car loaded with V1se2 and liquid (3 gallons of liquid, 3 rolls of se2) and I have not one bad spot. It's been 100+ here for 3 weeks.
 

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just peel the mylar off and add your own tinfoil layer
That's kind of hard to do when you have it layered in smaller pieces. The real problem is no one should have to do that. Other thing too, since I have no confidence in the mylar, I don't have much in their "butyl" either.

I'm just going to have to pull if off and use something that works.:mad:
 

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Rudeboy-So if you go liquid over deadener and then decide to add later what are your options. You know sometimes when you think its good with 2 layers of BXT then go back and wish you had done 3 or 4 because your anal, like myself. I was going to spectrum then the BXT. Guess you could add more spectrum instead of BXT if you did mat then liquid. Ok give me some more options.

Yes, I just realized I kinda answered my own question. :D
There really is a limit to how many layers of vibration damper are going to do anything more for you - anal or not :) Once tapping on the panel doesn't excite any resonance, you are there. If you are bothered by a noise source like an exhaust or tires coming through the area you deadened, you need a barrier. In any case, I like to lay down a few layers of closed cell foam.

The benefit of laying several coats of liquid on top of a layer or more of mat is pretty theoretical. The idea is that due to their different consistencies, they are optimized for slightly different frequencies. I have no idea if this works or not and I've tried it. I didn't do it so much out of compulsiveness as out of curiosity and opportunity. I had done my car with mat and cc foam and was very happy with it. Then manufacturers started sending me products to look at for SDS. Some sent quite a bit. First thing I did was add another layer of 2 additional brands of mat. Then the liquids started to arrive, so I put down a bunch of that. I've got crazy amounts of sound deadener in my car. Way more than it would make sense to use except that I was really interested in how they were to apply and how durable they were in use.

Did the same thing with my GF's car. I hate to waste stuff, so if it was good, it ended up in a car. Did adding all of that on top of my original job make any difference? Probably is the best I can do. It is certainly one tightly knit together structure, but I honestly can't tell you how much improvement there was. I can tell you the trim over the door sill is bulging a little bit :)

Either way, this is a good reason not to glue foam down on the floor. You will be glad you didn't if you decide to add more products. Still wouldn't go mat on top of liquid.
 
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