[npdang]

Construction:

Painted Paper/Cardboard like cone.
Large rubber surround.
Laminated stamped steel basket.
Rubber magnet boot.
Tiny push terminals.
Dual voice coil.
Large rear pole vent.

Solid construction, although the surround seems overly large making the cone appear much smaller than one's found in a typical 7" driver. I also didn't like the push terminals, which were flimsy and stuck out sideways.

Large pole vent, magnet boot, laminated chassis, and venting under the cone were all nice touches.

The large magnet size and mounting depth may be prohibitive for many people.

Performance:

Efficiency is quite low for this driver. Also, top end is clearly not suitable for midrange use. Low end sensitivity is very good for in-car door use.

Inductance variation is quite high. Bl curve is off-centered, with severe asymmetry. Suspension is capable of very high excursion.

Xmag appears to be -11mm to +7mm.
Xsus ~12mm 1 way.

My thoughts are this driver will need alot of power to get going, and has the capability for quite a bit of bass output, although it won't be the cleanest bass. Expect fairly large t/s parameter shift as well. I wouldn't even think of using it for midrange reproduction.

 

[geoffire]

wow, they really are for Bass only... looks like a dayton HF 12" would extend higher!

I definitely see their purpose though - If they fit factory 6.5 locations they might be a good use for those unused holes in the rear deck... that is if you were looking for a cheap and easy bass solution and didn't care much about SQ.

 

[jpjr]

npdang, have you looked at the mounting surface of the eu700. I have four of them. The first two I installed and when I tightened the screws down, it bent the frame pretty good and they were not that tight. After looking at the other two that I did not install, I could see the outer edges of the woofer extend past the inner mounting surface. So when installed, the outer lip of the woofer frame makes contact with the mounting surface while the inner mounting surface doesnt unless you tighten it down and bend the frame.
I am using them as subwoofers and they are pretty impressive for being so small.

 

[notacop]

Based on this info, mounted IB in a door, what do you think would be the best lowpass for this driver to be used as a midbass? Definitely not up into the midrange, I have them set to 160 right now and they do great, but I am wondering if I can send more to these guys and less to the CL4 mids up on my dash

 

[notacop]

Nobody has crossover suggestions for this?

 

[Derek]

you could cross it with a zebra.

and throw it in the trash.............


just an idea

 

[chuyler1]

Based on this info, mounted IB in a door, what do you think would be the best lowpass for this driver to be used as a midbass? Definitely not up into the midrange, I have them set to 160 right now and they do great, but I am wondering if I can send more to these guys and less to the CL4 mids up on my dash

Just look at the response graph and make your own decision. I wouldn't run them much higher than 100Hz but judging from the graph you'd be fine up to 200Hz with some eq'ing. They are designed more for light subwoofer duties than anything else, or bringing the 40-100Hz range to the front of your car.

 

[notacop]

you could cross it with a zebra.

and throw it in the trash.............


just an idea

Thanks for the help

 

[notacop]

Just look at the response graph and make your own decision. I wouldn't run them much higher than 100Hz but judging from the graph you'd be fine up to 200Hz with some eq'ing. They are designed more for light subwoofer duties than anything else, or bringing the 40-100Hz range to the front of your car.

Yeah that is what I am currently using them for. I have a 1st order highpass @ 50 hz and a 4th order lowpass at 215hz. They work quite well to bring in some heavy midbass. I am putting close to 200 watts each. I just picked up a pair of DLS IR3 midranges to dash mount, so i think I am going to need different midbasses for the doors that can go up to 500-1000hz.


The main reason I was asking as I am not very experienced at interpreting the graphs. I read the sticky on how to interpret them, but I am still not confident in my conclusions.

 

[Jarick]

I had a pair and they were worthless IMO.

I ordered some 4 ohm speakers and they sent 8 ohms...strike one...built little custom boxes for them. Hooked them up, and they were dead quiet...strike two...they wouldn't play low or high. I was feeding them 175 watts per speaker and it sounded like I was playing a pair of normal speakers with no box...strike three. Returned them less a 15% restocking fee.

 

[notacop]

I ordered some 4 ohm speakers and they sent 8 ohms...strike one...

Not sure what you mean by that. They are Dual Voice Coil, so if you ordered 4 ohm you would get dual 4 ohm, that you could wire to 2 or 8 ohm. I have mine wired to 2 ohm each, running off about 200 watts each, and they have lots of output and with the 200 watts they can reach the full 12mm of excursion.


As was mentioned above, they are more subwoofer than midrange, and I am trying to push the limit using them as midbass, albeit not reaching high up into the spectrum.

I think I may replace them with the dayton RS180 or RS225 when I get the iridium dome midrange in, since I need something with more of a high end than these can provide.

 

[BassAddictJ]

would these fair well in a small sealed enclosure, playing midbass 90hz up to 500 or 600hz? w/ 200w rms each?