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Discussion Starter #1
Two of the X5 subwoofer installs I have seen used either the JL 10TW3 or 12TW3 in order to fit them underneath the cover of the rear storage compartment. I’m not sure what size they used. One install used a single TW3 in a down firing configuration and the other used two TW3’s facing up.

Maybe I should trust the wisdom of the two top level install shops that made that subwoofer choice but I prefer to use a ScanSpeak 28W/4878T00 I have if I can make it work. Ideal sealed enclosure size is 1.5 cubic feet but I’m told I can go as small as 1 cubic foot if needed. That really isn’t the issue, it is the available height of 8.5 inches, width, and even some areas with lower clearance where the cover hinge and cover lift rod rests, and the uneven bottom of the storage space.

My dealer suggests 7 inches of room under the flange. The bottom of the magnet sits 5.5 inches below the flange. Add 1.5 inches for the bottom and top of the box and I’m at 8.5 inches and still need to account for the hydraulic cover hinge/ holder and room for the cone to move.

If I can compromise with a smaller box than 1.5 cubic feet, I wonder if I can compromise on the free space under the magnet? Even a half inch may do the trick. That is the way I’m leaning. I’ve asked Madisound and should hear back soon. They are pretty helpful.

I may add a layer of ¾ inch Baltic birch under the ¾ MDF. I always use this sandwich design on the home subwoofers I have built anyway. Of course size and space isn’t the same concern. Even taking up the extra internal volume, I could fit 1.5 cubic feet if I needed to. I will likely shoot for 1.3 or 1.4. It won’t leave much room for amplifiers but there are other options. Then I can route out a little grove for the cover hinge and rod to recess into when down.

I know someone with an Audiofrog GB10 that built a box for the storage compartment and it’s an inch deeper than my ScanSpeak although it allows for a much smaller sealed enclosure. It looks like they removed the storage liner material and that may free up a little more space but I prefer to keep my liner in if possible.

I would add pictures and links but I seem to get flagged for spam or something every time I try.

Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I'll try and add a picture of the space.
 

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I know someone with an Audiofrog GB10 that built a box for the storage compartment and it’s an inch deeper than my ScanSpeak although it allows for a much smaller sealed enclosure. It looks like they removed the storage liner material and that may free up a little more space but I prefer to keep my liner in if possible.
Your dealer (Musicar NW) is not incorrect in their recommendation. However, I would also 'caveat' that, by pointing out that they are a JL Audio dealer... take it for what it is. Based on the overall depth of 8.5" inside the cargo area; a shallow sub 'may' be the better choice.

I've owned both the recommended JL subs, in the past. To be honest; I thought the less expensive 10TW3 was a better sounding sub. But neither of them perform as well as my current Audiofrog GB10D2. Not even close. I suspect that may also be the case with your current ScanSpeak sub.

The guy (mentioned in your OP) with the Audiofrog GB10 sub, is me... I had seriously considered going back to the JL 10TW3 shallow sub for my current build, but I knew it would annoy me, knowing how good my GB10 sub performs.

I built a sealed enclosure, based on the recommended volume from Audiofrog (which is: 0.6 cu ft). Actually, my enclosure is: 0.67 cu ft. I chose to mount the sub close to the front of the vehicle, simply because that's where the hinge to the cargo hatch is. My rationale is that; the hinged part of the hatch is more solid, and would have less potential for vibration.

I'm about 85% finished this overall install, and haven't really had a chance to fully test the sub. I have powered it up, and it thumps pretty well. I put sound deadener at the rear of the hatch cover, to eliminate vibration. Once I get it all done (should be this week), I'll see how it sounds.

I have also been contemplating cutting a hole in the cargo hatch floor, and covering it with stainless perforated steel, then re-carpeting over it. I spoke to another member (DIY.Phil) who built a similar thing in his X5, and he said that the sub performs fine without the need to cut the cargo hatch floor. He's done a couple BMW's; one of them he cut a hole, and the other he didn't. He says there was no advantage to having the hole in the cargo floor.

We'll see. I should have it all done by this weekend, and I'll put it to the test then.

 

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Discussion Starter #4
Your dealer (Musicar NW) is not incorrect in their recommendation. However, I would also 'caveat' that, by pointing out that they are a JL Audio dealer... take it for what it is. Based on the overall depth of 8.5" inside the cargo area; a shallow sub 'may' be the better choice.

I've owned both the recommended JL subs, in the past. To be honest; I thought the less expensive 10TW3 was a better sounding sub. But neither of them perform as well as my current Audiofrog GB10D2. Not even close. I suspect that may also be the case with your current ScanSpeak sub.

The guy (mentioned in your OP) with the Audiofrog GB10 sub, is me... I had seriously considered going back to the JL 10TW3 shallow sub for my current build, but I knew it would annoy me, knowing how good my GB10 sub performs.

I built a sealed enclosure, based on the recommended volume from Audiofrog (which is: 0.6 cu ft). Actually, my enclosure is: 0.67 cu ft. I chose to mount the sub close to the front of the vehicle, simply because that's where the hinge to the cargo hatch is. My rationale is that; the hinged part of the hatch is more solid, and would have less potential for vibration.

I'm about 85% finished this overall install, and haven't really had a chance to fully test the sub. I have powered it up, and it thumps pretty well. I put sound deadener at the rear of the hatch cover, to eliminate vibration. Once I get it all done (should be this week), I'll see how it sounds.

I have also been contemplating cutting a hole in the cargo hatch floor, and covering it with stainless perforated steel, then re-carpeting over it. I spoke to another member (DIY.Phil) who built a similar thing in his X5, and he said that the sub performs fine without the need to cut the cargo hatch floor. He's done a couple BMW's; one of them he cut a hole, and the other he didn't. He says there was no advantage to having the hole in the cargo floor.

We'll see. I should have it all done by this weekend, and I'll put it to the test then.

Thanks jimmydee,

How much room are you leaving above the woofer? I can imagine if the bass is really pumping the cones will need some room, I'm just not sure how much.

I came up with another idea while trying to sleep last night that I want to model, a bit of a wedge shaped box from back to front. That would allow me to get the depth under the driver with a slope down under the hinge while giving me the cubic feet I want.

Thanks again.
 

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You're right... there isn't a lot of room between the top of the cone and the bottom of the cargo floor. About an inch.

When I get it all fired up (this weekend), I'll be in a better position to give my assessment. But initially, I would say that it seems to sound pretty good.
I had some vibration issues with the cargo floor, but I put some sound deadener across the back seam of the floor (where the hinged part is), and that seems to have gotten rid of it.

Here's the 3/4" MDF enclosure, before I glued and nailed the top on it. I was just test fitting things at this point:


And here it is, with the box finished.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You're right... there isn't a lot of room between the top of the cone and the bottom of the cargo floor. About an inch.

When I get it all fired up (this weekend), I'll be in a better position to give my assessment. But initially, I would say that it seems to sound pretty good.
I had some vibration issues with the cargo floor, but I put some sound deadener across the back seam of the floor (where the hinged part is), and that seems to have gotten rid of it.

Here's the 3/4" MDF enclosure, before I glued and nailed the top on it. I was just test fitting things at this point:

And here it is, with the box finished.
That looks great! No way I can fit an enclosure to one side like that though. I need to deal with the hinge and support rod.

I was thinking something like this would work;
 

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Talk to Musicar, and find out where they would want to mount the amps.
I suspect they would want to put them in a similar location as where I mounted mine.
Which would (again) limit what you can build for a sub enclosure...
 

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I don't think Musicar put any equipment other than the sub-woofer in the storage compartment. I'll confirm when I am in their shop Tuesday.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/kennethaward/albums/72157667508673867

Thanks
Yeah, you're right.
They are using a single Arc XDi 1200.6 to power everything. And it is fitted into the side (near the rear wheel well).

Musicar does a passive front with the mids and tweeters. That takes 2 channels.
Then they use 2 more channels for the underseat woofers (typically Jehnert's).
Then they either use the last 2 channels for rear doors, or bridge them for a sub - depending on what the customer asks for.

If you are planning to use more than one amp, then there won't be enough room in that side area...
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
How much width do I need to accommodate an amplifier on the side of my sub-woofer enclosure? JL Audio seems to have one of the smaller footprints.

The depth of the HD series is 8.29 inches but the RCA connectors seem recessed.
The depth of the XD v2 series is 7.09 inches, again with recessed RCA’s.

With RCA connectors on one side and speaker wire on the other, what is the total width I need to plan for to fit them without stressing the cable connectors?

Are there other comparable amps with a similar or smaller footprint?

Thanks.

Edit, I'm thinking the MMats might work even better than the JL's because their connections are on the narrow side of the case. Do I need any additional space on the sides for air flow?

I emailed MMats and am a little concerned they have a very light dealer network and nothing near me. They have a 20% off until the 2nd but I need to order off the manufacturers website. For a US company why don't they have better distribution?

Based on their popularity on the forum and Jimmydee's build I ordered a MMats HiFi-6150D to use for the mids and tweets and a HiFi-4250D for the pair of under-seat woofers and two channels bridged for the subwoofer.
 

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I have a Scanspeak 32W installed in the spare tire well of a 2013 X5. Box is 1.68 cubic feet. Box is made of Baltic birch. I used .5" for the bottom and .75" on all other sides. I also removed the hydraulic lift arm to give the sub clearance. In addition to the sub box, I have a Zapco Z150.6 lx in there.

Not much of a build log, but here you can see the box and installation in the cargo well.
 

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I have a Scanspeak 32W installed in the spare tire well of a 2013 X5. Box is 1.68 cubic feet. Box is made of Baltic birch. I used .5" for the bottom and .75" on all other sides. I also removed the hydraulic lift arm to give the sub clearance. In addition to the sub box, I have a Zapco Z150.6 lx in there.

Not much of a build log, but here you can see the box and installation in the cargo well.
Nice. That is really helpful. Thank you!

I was looking at that sub, Madisound suggested the 28W would work better and it was on sale for $399. I would still like to build a home cabinet with the 32W. It looks like an amazing sub.

My Madisound contact said I could use 1" clearance so that is what I am going to shoot for. I think with a wedge shaped enclosure I can keep the lift arm on. I am also tempted to try a 23W with matching passive radiator in a 1 cubic foot box. I have one in my family room I could build a new box for. It sounds fantastic but won't take as much power or play as loud but it will go low and fit easily in the storage space.

For the home cabinets I build I use both 3/4 inch MDF and Baltic Birch, Baltic Birch mostly for bracing and an MDF/BB sandwich for the fascia and rear cabinet wall. Not enough room in a car to do that but I will likely find a way to use some Baltic birch with MDF.

Thanks again, great work.

Here is my 23W
 

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Beautiful work! $399 is a great price.

My box is 7.5" tall. The internal height is 6.25" which left me with .5" behind the sub.

Sounds real nice. Great output and so transparent/smooth. I have not noticed any clearance issues at all, even when really pushing it.

Good luck!
 

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Beautiful work! $399 is a great price.

My box is 7.5" tall. The internal height is 6.25" which left me with .5" behind the sub.

Sounds real nice. Great output and so transparent/smooth. I have not noticed any clearance issues at all, even when really pushing it.

Good luck!
Did you remove the liner in the storage compartment?

Thanks
 

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Nice. That is really helpful. Thank you!

I was looking at that sub, Madisound suggested the 28W would work better and it was on sale for $399. I would still like to build a home cabinet with the 32W. It looks like an amazing sub.

My Madisound contact said I could use 1" clearance so that is what I am going to shoot for. I think with a wedge shaped enclosure I can keep the lift arm on.
You should be able to fit a 28W in there, without issue. Especially if you built an angled enclosure.
As mentioned by JRiggs; you may have to remove the hydraulic lift strut.

My sub only needed 0.6 cu.ft. of internal volume in a sealed enclosure, so I built it long, and kept the strut intact.
Going from memory; I think my enclosure is: 12" wide X 23" long X 7.5" deep (outside dimensions).
There's 5/8" of clearance from the bottom of the magnet to the rear of the enclosure.

https://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/build-logs-project-install-gallery/423805-jimmydees-bmw-build-log.html

 
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