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Discussion Starter #1
I have 2 amps right now, a rockford p5002 (125x2 or 500x1) and an alpine mrh-f255 (25x4 +80x1 or 40wx2 +80x1). I was given the alpine and I got the rockford for very cheep, and I would like to use these to build my system. along with the rockford were 2 12" sony xplod(5sided) subs rated at 380w continuous. I only want to use one of these, and I would like to get a midbass driver as well and drive it off the 5th channel of the alpine. my big question is whether to put 6.5" component's in the front doors and bridge them, or to get 25w 6.5" components in the front and rear.

the car is an 03 civic hatchback, the front and rear speakers are about equal distance from my ears, there are tweeters on the sail panels (will be replaced with better tweeters) and I think I will be placing the midbass in the front consol as there is a lot of empty room under the shifter between the footboxes. the sub will be mounted on one of the sides in the hatch, probably glassed in and ported, the amps mounted on the other side of the hatch.

I'd like a stereo that sounds better than my last one: a jeep cherokee with 4 infinity referance fullrange 6.5s powered from the headunit and a 12" base level audiobahn sub running off a lanzar vibe ??? that put out about 150-180 on a good day (actually the sub sounded just fine and I usually turned it down to "blend" better with the speakers.

so, 4 25w components or 2 50w components? which will sound better and allow more volume? I dont turn up the music that much, but I want plenty of volume headroom before any clipping or distortion happens
 

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I'm going to go out on a limb and say that you are gonna overpower your front stage.

That said, with a bit of tweeking, it might not be that bad.

Bridge the alpine.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
well I have a rockford head unit that has a subwoofer control, so I can lower the signal it gets to blend in better, plus I have a remote bass boost so I could use that to help as well, though I dont think it will need much boosting. I could run the sub off of just one channel too, thats around 125 watts unless I got a 2ohm sub. I dont think I will have that control on the midbass though. I was thinking I might be able to run the tweets and/or the rear set off the deck though, would that help?
 

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Look, jettison the rear speakers, they are a Commie threat against our North American way of life, and use the money to get better fronts.

Do NOT use the bass boost. The bass in the HB will rip your freakin' head off like the cockroaches in Ghostbusters.

Do not worry about the power ratings of your speakers. They have nothing to do with the SQ. Bigger problem in that car is doing some custom workk to get the back of the door panel to seal up against the front of the speaker/ring assembly to mimic the OEM speaker fitment and get killer midbass up front.

We did one of those with DLS UP6 on the customer's xtant 3150 and the fronts were impressive with all the work we did on the midbass fitting. If you look closely at how the OEM door panels snug up to the foam tape gasket on the speaks, you should get some ideas which will guide you to the weatherstripping aisle at Home Depot.
 

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Rear speakers used properly can really add to the imaging and depth of the system. I didn't used to think so either, but I've changed my mind.

With that said, in your situation, I'd skip them for now.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thank you guys, that answers my question well.

now I am confused about one thing, should I worry about including a midbass driver (which I think is the driver that gives the drums their kick, as opposed to having the sub do that since it wouldnt be as responsive) or if decent 6.5" woofers for the components would do that job well enough. I dont know how I would controll the sound out of the midbass driver off the 5th channel of the amp, and that might be a problem with blending.

also, would running the woofers off the amp and the tweeters off the HU be bad? and can the HU be bridged? (rockford fosgate 9120)
 

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thank you guys, that answers my question well.

now I am confused about one thing, should I worry about including a midbass driver
)
No.

(which I think is the driver that gives the drums their kick, as opposed to having the sub do that since it wouldnt be as responsive)
Yes.

or if decent 6.5" woofers for the components would do that job well enough.
If installed well, yes - installation has a lot to do with it.

also, would running the woofers off the amp and the tweeters off the HU be bad?
Yes.

and can the HU be bridged? (rockford fosgate 9120)
Already is, internally.
 
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