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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After thinking this over for a few weeks, it looks like my best option is to build a false floor in my hatch for the amp(s) and probably a sub in the spare well.

I can manage building the base without a problem, but the beauty panel for the top will be tricky for me. Obviously, it will be in more than one piece so I can get it in and out of the car. I will probably do a large rectangular section in the middle, and 2 "wings" for the sides. Those will be the tricky ones. Getting the shape perfect can be a challenge.

The easiest way I can think of after looking at others' projects, is to use some flexible wire or something that will let you press it around the shape, and hold that shape so you can transfer it to the material you will be cutting. I have seen people use cardboard, or paper to try and piece it together. That seems tedious and not quite as accurate without trial and error. I see fancy gauges and tracers that cost big bucks and still require some consistency in their use to get it perfect.

I found this: Mobile Solutions :: Measure-Copy-Position

Something like that is probably what I will look for. Anyone know what material that is? A thick solder wire might do the trick. Coat hanger is not bendy enough. :) Another option would be to lay a thin layer of FG around the whole thing and take it out and trim it for a perfect contour...but again...too much work it seems.

Any other ideas? Its in a MKIII VW GTI BTW...maybe someone has pics of such a project in that vehicle.
 

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most installers use a scribe. like the multi-scribe in that link.
You can make your own with a 12" piece of wood. drill a hole in one end for a pencil.
get some cardboard to trace onto.

Its actually pretty easy and much easier than fiberglassing contours to get a shape or making bendy shapes and then transfering
 

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Hopefully I can get this into words...

What I do is start with a multiple piece cardboard template. I mark and cut it as close as I can. Then I mark on the edges of the cardboard template if the actual piece needs to be larger, with little arrows designating direction and the amount of extra material to leave on the actual part.
When I feel it's close enough, I'll trace the taped-together cardboard template on the wood, adding to the line wherever my marks were.
The goal is to get it close at this point, not exact.
After test fitting the actual part, I mark any areas that might be too big, and cut them off. The idea is for it to be a little smaller than what you'll need to fit flush.
Then, with the actual part removed, I'll use painter's tape around the entire perimeter of where the part is going to be resting, and then put the part back in.
With it held into position, I then use a flexible tool (like a bondo spreader) and force Duraglass into the space between the part and the painter's tape. When it begins to harden I'll remove the part and the Duraglass of course comes with it, and I use a cheese grater tool to knock down the high spots before it hardens completely. Then once it's hardened, I sand it with 36 and then 80 grit so the Duraglass is flush with the wood on the top. After another test fit I'll see if I need to add any more Duraglass anywhere, if so then I repeat the process.

This will give you a part that has the actual opening size, right up to any trim panels. It's WAY easier and less wasteful than cutting boards over and over again until it's perfect.
 

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The flexible curve is the one you want. It bends and stays in place. If you need it longer than 25" buy two and mate them together. Drops the time significantly over TREETOP's way, which by the way is how I used to do it before I found this jewel. Push it against the panel to form the shape. Trace it to wood and cut. Fits perfect pretty much the first time. What used to take 1/2 a day now takes about an hour. Well worth the money IMO.

I still do the second part with the tape and duraglass the same way though:).
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah I figured I would try the least amount of work possible....and hopefully the flexible curve is it. I was wondering what that was made of. I am sure I can find something that would work the same for less $$$. Pipe cleaner kind of thing comes to mind.

Thanks guys.
 

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Yeah I figured I would try the least amount of work possible....and hopefully the flexible curve is it. I was wondering what that was made of. I am sure I can find something that would work the same for less $$$. Pipe cleaner kind of thing comes to mind.

Thanks guys.
I've used all sorts of things in the past like aluminum TIG welding rods, wire hangers. They both worked fine, just not near as easy as the FC is to work with.
 

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A contour gauge was recommended for this purpose in another post I read. There is one listed in the OP.
 

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A contour gauge was recommended for this purpose in another post I read. There is one listed in the OP.
The contour gauge is fine if you're making a small piece, but it's just not long enough to really be practical to make a false floor panel IMO. We use both at the shop and the flexible curve wins 99% of time. Cardboard FTL:laugh:.
 

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I would think a length of romex wire would do a very nice job of this as well. Great ideas here guys, you just saved me a bunch of time!

Evan
 

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Don't buy the flexible curve from Mobile Solutions if you can help it.

Go to a wood working store or google :D
Amazon.com: MLCS 9327 Woodworking 36-Inch Flexible Curve Ruler: Home Improvement
- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices 107 inches!!!
sorry to dump in the thread, however, dogstar if you have time to post you have time to post a tracking number or any proof that you shipped my item that i purchased a month ago and never received

again sorry to op for my dump
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
No worries Brian! I am actually in a similar situation with some parts for my VW. I mean come on. Some people!
 

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No worries Brian! I am actually in a similar situation with some parts for my VW. I mean come on. Some people!
sorry to hear that your going through something too. such a shame to see this going on
 
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