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Discussion Starter #1
I put one of my old Sony amps in my son's Mitsubishi Lancer and put a 10" NVX subwoofer in place of the stock Rockford sub in the stock location. It does sound better but one minute it sounds good, the next it sounds pretty poor. From what I've read the factory amp does auto-leveling. I drove it to pick up some supper, and it just isn't "right". I'm thinking about changing what I can.

I found a thread on a Mitsubishi forum where a guy replaced his factory amp although I don't agree with how he did things. He identified wires that he says are low level inputs for the front. If I cut those and attach some RCA ends then I can make some RCA cables and send them to a 4 channel amp. Guessing I would need some Y cables to feed both set of inputs on the amp.

Then I'd wire each channel to the front mids and front tweeters since they are 4 distinct outputs on the factory amp. Do they have 4 channel amps with preamp outputs? If so, I could send some RCAs to a mono amp for the subwoofer. I'd leave the rears connected to the stock amp. The only thing I'd lose is the ability to control the sub volume from the head unit. But I could gain that back with a bass knob.

One thing I would have to do is come up with a crossover for the mids and tweets. Maybe use some F-Mods? I have a 4 channel amp I can use. Trying to keep cost down. Does anyone have some suggestions or alternatives?
 

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What you need is the appropriate interface to use and bypass the oem amp and go into a DSP or an active LOC like maybe an LC7i or similar. First things first tho. You need to figure out which leads out of the factory headunit are full range. Usually, the fronts are.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
What you need is the appropriate interface to use and bypass the oem amp and go into a DSP or an active LOC like maybe an LC7i or similar. First things first tho. You need to figure out which leads out of the factory headunit are full range. Usually, the fronts are.
Here's the write-up that was done on the Mitsubishi forum, - EvolutionM - Mitsubishi Lancer and Lancer Evolution Community. All of the wires are identified, supposedly.

If the front outputs are truly low level that should simplify things. I don't think I should use an LOC. I'd have to use the tweeter and midbass outputs and then sum them together.
 

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What year Lancer?
 

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It may make your life a lot easier if you just get a dash kit and replace the stock source unit with an aftermarket one. power the speakers with the head unit and use the rca sub output to a sub amp. It's probably the least cost (and headache) way to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It may make your life a lot easier if you just get a dash kit and replace the stock source unit with an aftermarket one. power the speakers with the head unit and use the rca sub output to a sub amp. It's probably the least cost (and headache) way to do it.
Yeah but his head unit does have Navigation. And it does show you some things that's going on with the car. It's probably not anything you couldn't live without. If he had more interest in it I'd probably change it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It may make your life a lot easier if you just get a dash kit and replace the stock source unit with an aftermarket one. power the speakers with the head unit and use the rca sub output to a sub amp. It's probably the least cost (and headache) way to do it.
The other thing about that is if everything is still going through the factory amp, that amp will still be auto-leveling the sound for the front and rears. The subwoofer would be OK because it would be connected to the new head unit. But because of the factory amp it would get to a point if you were turning it up that the bass would keep increasing but everything else would remain the same.

I'm pretty sure the auto-stuff is done in the amp, not the head unit.
 

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You need to bypass the amp. You need the appropriate interface if one is available, or make your own.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
You need to bypass the amp. You need the appropriate interface if one is available, or make your own.
That is my plan and what I outlined in my original post. But the tweeters and midbass are separate. So that makes it a little more difficult since I'll need a crossover or DSP.
 

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Most aftermarket head units have xovers, time alignment and eq- and sub output with sub level adjustment. 95% of people I know use their cell for their GPS device with apps like Waze or Google Maps. This is by far the easiest solution for you. Simple to install, no trying to sum multiple (poor) factory signals, no extra LOC or other hardware. Think about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Most aftermarket head units have xovers, time alignment and eq- and sub output with sub level adjustment. 95% of people I know use their cell for their GPS device with apps like Waze or Google Maps. This is by far the easiest solution for you. Simple to install, no trying to sum multiple (poor) factory signals, no extra LOC or other hardware. Think about it.
But I'd still be looking at doing a lot of the same things as I would if I keep the stock HU. Even if I change the HU, I'd still be looking at running dedicated amps to the tweeters and midbass because of how they're wired in the car. Which also means I'd need a crossover or DSP or maybe a HU that had crossover for tweeters and mids, which if I found one like that would cost quite a bit.

Right now I have a 4 channel amp I can use for tweeters and midbass. I also have an amp I can bridge for the sub. The only thing I need is a crossover or DSP. I found a Soundstream 4 way crossover for $60 or I could get the Dayton DSP for $150.
 
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