Thinking of possibly starting the building of my fiberglass 15" tempest box here soon and i was thinking about a few things.
1) Should i go with or without spare tire.....Thinking of going without so i can fit more airspace into the rear without taking up so much room with the tire as i'll be running around a 3.5-4.5cf f-glass box. I want to go without the tire cutting down weight but i always think about the possibility of needing it but going without will give me another 5-7 inches under the existing floor to work with as well as the area where the spare tire would be.
2) Which way should i go with make a skeleton ribbed design equally spaced to support the port openings as well as the pretty wide panels that will be on the box as it will be so big.
3) Aeroports or basic slot ports.......trying to figure out which would be better to use since it will be f-glass.
Hehe, sorry about # 2, basically i'm saying should i go with a basic f-glass rear and bottom to the box, then wrap fleece over the top and sides, like you would do with a kickpanel, or should i make a basic skeleton for the box, say cut out the contours of the exterior of the box and space them mabey 4-6" apart to give myself something to support the fleece when i drape it over the box.....and just wrap it all the way around......This will be my first time doing glass and i just figured with the size of the box that a normal f-glass job like doing kickpanels wouldn't suffice.....or should i do it just normal but make the walls pretty thick.
Hope that explained what i was asking.....1/2 way explained what i was trying to say in the first post.
I'd say doing it the kickpanel way would be easier. i dont know what kind of design you are shooting for, but would it be possible to use MDF for the bottom?
I think the bottom of the hatch area is a little too rigid and all for a flat bottomed box....the contours just don't seem to be flat at all.....Was basically going for a single 15" ported 3.5-4.5cf tuned around 27hz.......looking into the rear of the car something like { . O . } (can't beleive i just did that to try to get the idea across) But basically the sub will be in the center of the rear of the car ports on the low sides one on each side of the box firing to the rear....sub will be leaned back about 20-30 degrees so that the 15" driver will fit. box will span the whole way across the back width of the car.
Hope that gets the point across, not sure how good of a description that is.
I say use as much mdf as you can cause you want that box to be as dead as posisble. Just use wood for any large flat surfaces and get just the contours with glass. My 2c
Thanks for the input......really wanting to keep it light as possible as well, With a simple single 12" ported 2.5cf box and a ~18lb sub i can already feel the change in weight. Will be dropping the spare most likely as well.
Well i have an older Dual 8ohm Tempest on the way, the good ol normal 15" version they used to make....before adire went all spiffy (jk), This sub is going to be extreemly loud in my new Hatchback Scion tC.........Crazy loud most likely.....i have a single 12" Rockford Fosgate HE2 in there right now in a ported 2.5cf @ 32hz and it is rediculious.....tons more output than i ever had in my explorer and BTW this is compaired to 2 of the 12's, and right now i couldn't be more pleased with the output of this single 12 in the car....but i want to bump it up a little........The sub box build should be soon i hope, Any suggestions on how to start the box off........i'm really hoping i can go without the spare....dropping the weight of the car down a few lbs, and hopefully this f-glass box won't weigh very much either, as i've found out weight is a considerable issue with the acceleration and all.....a 50lb increase over my own weight is slightly noticable.
Anyway just wanted to add i have the sub on the way and i can't wait to start playing with it......And hopefully get some pics as well.
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