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Discussion Starter #1
All,

This site is extremely helpful, and I thank everyone who contributes to the heaps of info available. I am currently attempting my first fiberglass project. Speaker pods to fit cdt es-6 braxial in the doors of my 98 civic.

pics:





My question concerns fleecing the odd shaped base. I would like to avoid the fleecing material from folding over itself when stretching from the speaker ring to the back of the base. Is it best to just work it in strips to get the initial shape, or to let if fold, and sand down later? Thanks in advance for any pointers!

Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks for the reply. i think i was trying to do too much at one time. the problem is at the last section. there seems to be just a little too much material to pull out. i'm just gonna work through a small section at a time, and see if I can work the fabric straight.

thanks again!
 

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If you're having a tough time getting fleece to make the stretch, try a different material like ponte or even grill cloth. it'll need more reinforcing than fleece or felt but it'll stretch way better and smoother with less wrinkles.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
This is the base molding: I wish I would have chosen a lighter weight weave. This one pulled up a little bit in the corners, but still makes a good fit. This shows the steep angle on the right hand side of the mold that meets the pocket.





This is the test fit on the panel. The long straight line that matches the door panel line on the top right is the area giving me an issue.





This is the mdf ring in place. I had to strike a balance b/t room for the passenger, room for the stinking massive magnet on the es-6, and still try and get a little angle up. I basically peeked at the cdt audio page, and tried to get as close to the pic they displayed (CDTAUDIO Premium Car Audio Sound Systems. I was hoping to be able to open the glove box with the door closed, but that can be a future project. Also, I decided to go braxial, so I cut down the top portion to match the contour of the mdf ring. I'll grab a pic of that shortly, and post it up.





Thanks for the replies, All. They are appreciated!
 

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This is the base molding: I wish I would have chosen a lighter weight weave. This one pulled up a little bit in the corners, but still makes a good fit. This shows the steep angle on the right hand side of the mold that meets the pocket.





This is the test fit on the panel. The long straight line that matches the door panel line on the top right is the area giving me an issue.




This is the mdf ring in place. I had to strike a balance b/t room for the passenger, room for the stinking massive magnet on the es-6, and still try and get a little angle up. I basically peeked at the cdt audio page, and tried to get as close to the pic they displayed (CDTAUDIO Premium Car Audio Sound Systems. I was hoping to be able to open the glove box with the door closed, but that can be a future project. Also, I decided to go braxial, so I cut down the top portion to match the contour of the mdf ring. I'll grab a pic of that shortly, and post it up.





Thanks for the replies, All. They are appreciated!
thats a cool way to do it. my door suxk on my 92 accord
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah, I'm working on part deux now. I changed to a braxial setup, and require a deeper trim ring to fit the grill over the tweeters.

The only real issue I had for this setup was the base mold pulling up a little when the fleece was glued in place. I'm going to use a lighter fleece with additional layers for the next go around. It was a good experience and my first time messing with fiberglass and bondo. I found it fun to work with personally.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
The other part of this setup that I don't like is that I cannot open the glove box with the door closed. I think I am going to forego the angle in on the next pair and just angle up. Can be a bear to fit the es-6 magnet without cutting up the door.
 

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Why not just mount baffles to the door metal, cut out the panel around the baffles and then glass that? The you will not lose your glovebox functionality and you'll have more leg room. Check out my build thread in my sig to see how I did it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Why not just mount baffles to the door metal, cut out the panel around the baffles and then glass that? The you will not lose your glovebox functionality and you'll have more leg room. Check out my build thread in my sig to see how I did it.
Those panels came out nice! My issue is that the magnet on the back of the es-6 is too big for the hole in the door. I was trying to avoid cutting the door or the door panel, but I think I may end up having to do that either way to gain some leg room back, and have room to work optimal aiming. I'll post pics of the semi finished pods shortly.

The projects never end... :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Sorry so long on pics, but I couldn't find my usb cable. As you can see, the shape changed. These ended up nice, and the speakers fit well, but the leg room has been a little limited. Soundstage is a little low as well. Either way, the shape is going to have to change to fit the cdt with braxial because the mdf ring isn't deep enough. They fit well, but the driver side has a slight rub on the bottom. They are lined with second skin on the inside, and screw into the oem speaker pattern. Here is how it ended up...





 

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Nice work!

I finally went with kicks in my Civic and am amazed at the lack of rattles, vibrations etc..

Whatever you do I am sure will look nice. You do good work.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Nice work!

I finally went with kicks in my Civic and am amazed at the lack of rattles, vibrations etc..

Whatever you do I am sure will look nice. You do good work.
danman,

thanks! i'm looking forward to starting the new project and was happy with how these turned out. it took until now for my arms to recover from all the sanding though!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
looks great..im doing the same thing
Thank you! It was quite the learning experience. I had a lot of fun working with these materials, and it wasn't as difficult as I thought it would be. Just gotta take your time...
 

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Discussion Starter #18
did you deaden the inside of the door considerably? any finished pics?
I covered the entire outer door skin, as well as the inner panel. I covered all the openings, ran loom around the door lock/handle rods to keep it functioning cleanly, and did my best to seal it off completely. I am going to start a build log for new door panels soon, and I'll post a bunch a pics in there.

I also lined the pods with the spare second skin strips that I had, and lined the opening of the pods to the door panel lip. I never covered the pods b/c I started planning on doing the door panels, but probably should just do it for the experience.
 
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