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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Was wondering if 150 watts per speaker from Zapco amp DC1000.4 OR 100 watts from Zapco C2K running active will be too much for the tweeters that come with Focal 165 K2P component way set?

Given that I am bypassing passive the crossover by going active, how do I keep the tweeter from getting too much wattage and getting damaged?

Or is 150 watts per tweeter simply too much for it to handle?
Perhaps turn the gains down on the channels feeding the tweeter?
Or keep the crossover settings set at a certain place (where?)

I know that many run more wattage than this, but im looking for signal quality AND longevity of speaker life.

Thanks,
 

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Think of watts as power being dissipated from work being done. Your channels can provide a certain amount of wattage, but what will actually be used is a different story.
No one can tell you this outcome. All I could say is that I could run it. I wouldn't opt to, but its possible.
User discretion is a personal factor of a active setup.
Also, turning down the gain won't decrease the potential of the channels. Its not a remedial solution to attenuating a speaker. It just seems to work that way.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Think of watts as power being dissipated from work being done. Your channels can provide a certain amount of wattage, but what will actually be used is a different story.
No one can tell you this outcome. All I could say is that I could run it. I wouldn't opt to, but its possible.
User discretion is a personal factor of a active setup.
Also, turning down the gain won't decrease the potential of the channels. Its not a remedial solution to attenuating a speaker. It just seems to work that way.
Im having a hard time understanding what you are saying. I am relatively new to car audio if that helps. Could you restate it in more simpler terms.

Thanks.
 

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i feed my rainbow tweeters with 150 watts no problem.I think you should be ok if you adjust the gain down little
 

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Im having a hard time understanding what you are saying. I am relatively new to car audio if that helps. Could you restate it in more simpler terms.

Thanks.
I'm quite sure he doesn't understand himself either!!
 

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First verify the resistance rating (ohm) on each speaker. Then you'll get a very basic idea of how much power on tap, amp draw, distortion, etc the amp will provide.

Say you use the 4-ohm version of the ScanSpeak 4.5 Revelator 12m, the amp (DC Reference 1000.4) will have the potential to feed 150watts of clean unclipped power to each Revelator speaker.
The ScanSpeak can handle up to 40watts continuously with out a crossover point selected (high-pass, low pass filter).

After you've established this basic logic try simulating power handling and crossover points with 'speaker-box calculation' software.
The power handling will increase as crossover points are applied - verify the mechanical limits of each driver to determine the best crossover point-to-power handling ratio.

I'm less versed in determining high frequency driver power handling (tweeters) than midrange or midbass drivers, but it follows the same logical path. Read the specs, find the resistance (ohm), apply crossover points based on the frequency response charts, mechanical limits, application limits, etc.

You'll quickly discover 'blasting' your system without care and planning can be detrimental to the life of your speakers and equipment. Careful planning is key to quality audio.
 
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