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Its a Jaguar XJ from the seventies.
It has large sills and they are closed (not open frames) as Tonny asked.

Also under the front seats it has pretty large sills, that I could use if they fire from the front of the seat to the window.

Cutting the sills (and dash) isnt a huge problem bc I have that car for 2 decades already (bought it when I was young) and will own it a lot longer. And it would be easy to put everything back with a used dash and so...
got any interior pics like of the kick panel area? is it RHD or LHD?
there arent many pics online that Ive found of the interior
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Yep I do, LHD.

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The black thing in there (L+R) is a venting piece that gives outside air through the holes above the headlights via a hose inside the fender (yeah those English cars have some funny things here and there) 馃槉..
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The last pic is borrowed from internet, but shows the sill and kickspace better...

Yeah 6" is defo easier... but 8" is doable, only when venting....
 

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I had 10" peerless sls in my kicks vented outside through 2 3" holes. I cut quite a bit out of my firewall to fit the motor. The enclosure i built

There was some resonance and in the 1-300hz range from the small venting issues but it still sounded good with plenty of EQ and went down to 30hz.

From my own experience with extensive testing. When you build your kicks. You want to make sure the back of the motor can vent all the way around the driver. Having a large driver and then a small 3" hole behind the driver venting into a large cavity will cause those resonance issues. You really gotta build a much larger enclosure than the driver to have it work perfectly.

But like i said. I did it suboptimally with a giant driver and it sounded amazing.

These are worth the read.


 

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If you can. I'd build enclosures into your door. Its a Much better option in my opinion.

I know a guy whos running 6.5in midbass in small kicks not vented that go down to 100hz and he has his front subwoofer pick up 100hz and down. Just an idea
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I had 10" peerless sls in my kicks vented outside through 2 3" holes. I cut quite a bit out of my firewall to fit the motor. The enclosure i built

There was some resonance and in the 1-300hz range from the small venting issues but it still sounded good with plenty of EQ and went down to 30hz.

From my own experience with extensive testing. When you build your kicks. You want to make sure the back of the motor can vent all the way around the driver. Having a large driver and then a small 3" hole behind the driver venting into a large cavity will cause those resonance issues. You really gotta build a much larger enclosure than the driver to have it work perfectly.

But like i said. I did it suboptimally with a giant driver and it sounded amazing.

These are worth the read.


Thanks good info! 10's nice! No need for a sub.

Yeah I would indeed make large cutouts and also a larger baffle than the speakers are. I tested and basically I have room to almost the brake pedal. But when venting I wouldnt need to go that far.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
If you can. I'd build enclosures into your door. Its a Much better option in my opinion.

I know a guy whos running 6.5in midbass in small kicks not vented that go down to 100hz and he has his front subwoofer pick up 100hz and down. Just an idea
That was my initial idea but reading more about it, I learned that the kick had benefits over the doors... soundwise....

A frontsub I thought about also, but I prefer the IB in the trunk. I am curious about the IB (I bought already).... and I love Open baffle sound!... Have some at home too.
But thanks for the suggestion.

I think I am going to try with the 8" Eton's. Maybe later upgrading to the RS225P or SLS8.

It means cutting in the sill... dammn 馃槪馃檭
Hopefully the glued carpet comes off in one piece. I am gonna check this week. Meanwhile I'll read the articles posted in here....
 

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Your dash looks like a big chalange to get 5" mids in there to look nice I think... I would always take kick's over doors as doors are a bad place for speakers.

If and where you get phase problems depends on the speaker location and the car it self compared to where you sit in the car, you can even get a 4" up there playing down to 100hz or so, but that will effect the overall output off the system, with a 5" up there 100hz should be doable when build right. That makes the choiche for kick's even better.
 

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
Your dash looks like a big chalange to get 5" mids in there to look nice I think... I would always take kick's over doors as doors are a bad place for speakers.

If and where you get phase problems depends on the speaker location and the car it self compared to where you sit in the car, you can even get a 4" up there playing down to 100hz or so, but that will effect the overall output off the system, with a 5" up there 100hz should be doable when build right. That makes the choiche for kick's even better.
Yes I would also rather use some 3" on the dash as the dash itself is about 2 - 2.5 inch (of zo'n 5 a 6 cm 馃槈) high... and I want to point them to the oposits driver inner ear. (Not tilted to the ceiling like some have)
I tested different aiming and locations and that sounded best.

So the 5" will look less nice but good sound matters too and I want it good this time.... And I can really enjoy it when it sounds very good....

I will make a black cardboard template and tape it on there and see how it looks.... but it seems like I will be using the 5"... 馃槉
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
He has the front sub doing like 50-100 and two 15s in back IB doing 10-50hz. Reallly helps anchor thr front stage impact
Wow...
Yeah nice, I can imagine it helps impact on front sub sound.
However.... a front sub added would mean I'd have to buy a more expensive Dsp with more channels. And another amp too...

I was planning to use a Helix Dsp.3.
Otherwise I'd have to buy the Helix Ultra.... and thats a bit above my budget.
This is my summer car, dont drive it daily, only with nice weather (and this summer in Holland hasnt been that great). But its also the only setup that will work at the moment bc my daily driver needs to be replaced this or next year, and then I could make a nice install there too.....

So I dont mind spending a bit extra om the Jag, but within reason. I already went from thinking about using a Dayton Dsp to the Helix Dsp.3. 馃槈

So nice deep sounding kicks without front sub would be fine for me.. 馃檭
 

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Can you remove that fan thing in the kick panel and put the speaker in its place? That's the best option imo
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Can you remove that fan thing in the kick panel and put the speaker in its place? That's the best option imo
Yeah I have the normal electric fan inside the car too, so they may be removed.
But is it better for the sound too that its a bit higher in there?
My thoughts were to put them on the ground and aim them a bit tilted to the highest point of the oposit door...
Maybe it raises the sub sound a bit.
Although with low midbass frequencies it probably wont right?
 

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It will make Zero difference if played below it's beaming point. For an 8 that's around 2500hz.
Look at an E36 BMW kick panel. Speakers fire flat straight across and work phenomenal when upgraded to a larger side.

Don't make this more complicated than it is.

If you can remove those fans. Make a flat baffle and put the 8 there. Just make sure the baffle is completely sealed off so front wave can't meet rear wave of speaker.
Add some insulation and trim it out cosmetically however you want. I'd do carpet or vinyl to match surrounding panels.
 
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Discussion Starter #35
It will make Zero difference if played below it's beaming point. For an 8 that's around 2500hz.
Look at an E36 BMW kick panel. Speakers fire flat straight across and work phenomenal when upgraded to a larger side.

Don't make this more complicated than it is.

If you can remove those fans. Make a flat baffle and put the 8 there. Just make sure the baffle is completely sealed off so front wave can't meet rear wave of speaker.
Add some insulation and trim it out cosmetically however you want. I'd do carpet or vinyl to match surrounding panels.
Great!! That would leave some room for my huge feet!!..... awesome.

I thought the tilted aiming would matter a little bit (as all small nuances help), but its really low hz indeed.

Thanks for the tips, I'll use the same vinyl and seal it as much as possible and with huge venting holes into the sill... 馃憤馃憣
 

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My old old old BMW install so u can see how the 8s are mounted

To simply things you could do an 8" midbass in kicks and then a 6" midrange in doors like you already have and put tweeter in sail or apillar.
Mid in door will help with width and if everything is played below beaming stage height etc. Will be fine
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Woww is that an 8 with a magnet up front? Never seen those..
And even a 6 below.
So they vented into the sills right?
But indeed nice and flat, looks good!

The alu "Anselm Andrian" German driver in my door is a 5"... original placed was a 4" but I could make a wider baffle inside.

It sounded pretty good with Vifa XT25 tweeters on the dash. (With tweaked passive XO's). But I got less output around 60 - 100hz. So planned the higher dash mids. Testing in the higher location... I was sold!
It was with Tangband Bamboo drivers (pretty nice, especially for the money)... But wanted Dayton Rs125p4 or Scans 12MU and the Satori's were just a litle bigger, and are priced in between, so will buy those. (Nice drivers)
If they had a 4" I would take those.
And u will see once I am ready they will have the 4's 馃槃
 

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My first step would be to see what the kick's do and get some room first and instal the drivers there and see how high they play clean without phase errors, then see what mid you need on the dash, if you can get a clean response up to 250hz or sou out off the kick's a 3" is big enough what makes the dash instal much easier and better looking.

Most 8" midbass drivers have no problem going more then high enough the only question is will the car let you play them that high?
 

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Don you know how I said I was going to see a bloke called tonny from your homeland... say hello... he knows his stuff and is a multi time Netherlands Emma champion... I agree with his take on putting 5鈥 up top... and don鈥檛 aim them at the opposite sides ears 馃槈 Window reflections will make the stage collapse inwards... there is a reason most aim speakers up and more down the car...
 

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Discussion Starter #40 (Edited)
My first step would be to see what the kick's do and get some room first and instal the drivers there and see how high they play clean without phase errors, then see what mid you need on the dash, if you can get a clean response up to 250hz or sou out off the kick's a 3" is big enough what makes the dash instal much easier and better looking.

Most 8" midbass drivers have no problem going more then high enough the only question is will the car let you play them that high?
Yeah thats a good idea. 馃憣
I was planning to check this week
It certainly would look nicer indeed with smaller drivers...
But if it soundwise would give more low end up on the dash (thats why I thought about the 5's) then I think I wouldnt mind a 5" there...
I would make them a bit lower hanging in the dash and with the most above the dash. (I'll make a picture of a template thats easier) 馃槈
 
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