DiyMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
G'day, I've been lurking/learning for a while. Looking at updating my old 2005 era system. Wife bought me a Dayton 408 DSP for Christmas so I figured no better time than now.

Looking for opinions: Keep my old 1.0 farad cap or ditch it? Electrical is stock F150 but doing the big 3 this week (should have been done long ago but never got around to it).

This is not a daily driver, so the system hasn't seen a whole lot of use over the last 15 years. I never ran it without the cap so I'm honestly not even sure if it did any good or not.

Cheers


Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,455 Posts
I say ditch the cap, install the DSP and see how it sounds. 2005 era equipment as long as it is working well (which as far as I can tell from the picture, you have quality equipment) should still sound good today. Maybe update the head unit if that is also 15 years old, but outside of that, if it ain't broke....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
371 Posts
You can probably adapt the doors to an 8" midbass without too much problems. Do a 3-way front stage and use the 8 outputs for those and the subs. Or make it easier and do a 6.5/6.75" 3 way set.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Funny you mention that, I have 8's in the doors already and 5.25 components in the kick panels (just Q-forms).

Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I'm not sure why I went with the 5.25 vs 6.5's, I can't think of a good reason. Probably got a good price on them. Might still put a set of 6.5's in there eventually, these 5.25's are just low end PG's.

Also considering just putting the stock kick panels back in and go full active with a decent set of mids & highs up in the A-pillars. I would imagine that would provide better imaging then down in the kicks.

I don't even remember what I paid for the Q forms back in '05. Saved me time from having to fiberglass my own, that's all I cared back then (more money than brains lol).



Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Update - Completed the following:

  • Big 3 wiring upgrade.
  • Installed Dayton DSP-408
  • Knuconcepts rca's
  • Picked up a Liumy MM/oscilloscope and gain matched everything.
I haven't even begun tuning, but what a difference these changes made! All these years I had no idea what I was missing. Thought I knew what I was doing by ear but much prefer the results after a systematic approach.

I have a lot to learn with this new-found level of control but so far I'm lovin' it. Fun to get back into this after so many years of adult'ing lol


Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,020 Posts
I am all about keeping equipment that works well. If you are running 8's in the doors, I dont know how much you would benefit going to a 6.5 mid. I think the biggest thing you already noticed was adding the Dayton DSP. On the Q forms, one thing that I did see benefit from a few people that ran them back in the day. If you havent done any kind of deadning on the inside of the Q form, it helps. A couple strips of dynamat or manufacturer of your choice. The plastic on the Q form is actually thin. Back in the day I knew some guys that added fiberglass mat as well to stiffen the plastic up. I also personally would keep the cap in place. Caps get a bad rap for people trying to fix bad electrical. One reason I have continued to keep a cap was they also function as a noise filter to amps. Some systems may have a bit of power wire induced noise and the cap could act as a buffer. For me, maybe I would never hear the difference, but sticking the cap in for me never had a negative so why not.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I had applied sound deadening to the back of the Q-forms when I installed them, I agree they're a little flimsy. Maybe glassing the backside could be a future upgrade, particularly if/when I update the components in them.

So far so good with the cap out, I still have it so it's always an option to put back in if need be.

Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,900 Posts
I'm in agreement to not swap the 5.25" mids for 6.5s. That would be a step backward in my opinion when you already have 8s in the doors to cover midbass. I can see the ID subs, but can you provide details on all of the equipment you have in your system?

It would seem that the best course of action right now is to do exactly what your doing. Make use of that new DSP-408 to optimize the system you already have. I see no real need for part swapping.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
HU is an old Alpine CDA-7894. Using the front set of pre-outs only to the DSP (408 Dayton, as mentioned) with the internal x-over on the deck set to Flat. I can also stream straight to the DSP via the BT dongle, haven't played with that yet.

Front stage: amp is a 4 channel Phoenix Gold MQ-430.

Speakers are a real dog's breakfast - 2 channels from the MQ-430 going into a set of Phoenix Gold 5.25 components in the kicks and one pair of Clarion 1" tweeters in the doors, all passive x-overs on this. Why the extra set of tweeters you ask? I guess because I had an extra set laying around and I wanted to make sure my highs would keep up with the rest(?). Sounds good to me, so no regrets. I'm curious to know what the resistance is, will test that one day soon because I'm curious.

8" mid-bass' in the doors are Kicker RMB8's powered by the other 2 channels of the MQ-430. X-over is via the DSP.

Subs: amp is a US Amps USA-400. Subs are 5 x IDQ10 D4's wired for a 1.6 ohm load, sealed & poly-filled enclosure. I believe I was shooting for approximately 0.75 cu.ft of airspace when I designed and built the box IIRC... Keep in mind this was 15 years ago and my memory isn't getting any better with age lol

Power is supplied via 1/0 pure copper welding cable. Stock battery and alternator, big 3 done as I mentioned.

Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,900 Posts
Taking all that into consideration, I would definitely focus on tuning. The only other thing I would pull from the system now is the second (Clarion) set of tweeters. The first set of tweeters (PG) should be sufficient to keep up with the rest of the system and you won't have potential issues of cancellation, etc. between the two different sets of tweeters.

In the long run, you might consider adding one more amp (2 channel or bridged 4 channel) to drive each speaker actively and remove the passive crossovers. This will allow you even better ability to dial in the tune between the 5.25" mids and tweeters.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Thanks, I will definitely try disconnecting that second set of tweeters and see how it sounds, easily done.

As for the additional amp, that's in the long term (5 year?) plan. That plan also includes cutting weight down as it's killing me at the drag strip. So, it will mean goodbye to the giant box, 5 x 10's, and likely the big heavy class A/B amps for some smaller and lighter alternatives (which have greatly improved since I built this system). All is not lost though, I will likely transplant some of this quality old-school goodness into my Super Duty (not concerned about weight there!).

Until then, I'll enjoy what I have and work on some tuning skills :)

Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,900 Posts
Sounds like a solid plan. There are a ton of great options available whenever you are ready to upgrade. Class D amplifiers with built in DSP and high excursion neo motor subwoofers make cutting down weight and and space a breeze. It'll just cost you a little bit. ;)
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top