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Discussion Starter #1
Spent some time tuning my 2 way active setup today. The result sounds good to me, defenetly better than autotuning by my pioneer 80PRS.
But the midwoofer in my left door have a serious dip @500Hz. I can't equalize it, guessing it's caused by my door. So I tried to replicate the dip in my right side, but the right side woofer has a similar dip @600Hz. I'm using the 80PRS eq -and it's rather limited. So I'm wondering if the left/right difference is caused by my doors slightly different internal volume?
The left door (drivers side) has more electronics, so I'm wondering if matching the doors internal volume, by stuffing something inside the right door, would cause both dips to happen at the same frequency?
 

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Most likely your center console, messing with the doors won't do anything for those frequencies. You're looking at wavelengths of about 2 feet, which is about the distance from the door speakers to the console.
 

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That's very common with door speakers, not much you can do about it....

Best not to boost the dip as the problem will get worse....
 

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lobing.... only thing that might help is reinstall, different midbass angle, drivers slightly elevated from original place in the doors,....
One other solution is to go 3-way with additional midrange that plays from 300-400Hz and up
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If it's caused by my cars console, why is left side different than right side? Distance is equal and except for gas, brake and clutch pedal the shape is almost equal to...
 

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If it's caused by my cars console, why is left side different than right side? Distance is equal and except for gas, brake and clutch pedal the shape is almost equal to...
Steering wheel, steering column, gauge cluster, different seat position, any of those could be playing a role. If EQ doesn't fix it, don't try, there's no reason to boost the EQ if it isn't changing the acoustic response.

The problem is not lobing, as previously mentioned. Angling the mids won't make a bit of difference at 500-600hz. Even an 8" (don't know what size your mids are) are omnidirectional to around 1,500hz or more.

How wide are the dips, how many dB lower are they, and is it actually audible?
 

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If you want to test if a dip is enclosure related. Run a sweep about 3in in front of the driver. You'll get a response that is the speaker+ enclosure before the room affects it

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If you want to test if a dip is enclosure related. Run a sweep about 3in in front of the driver. You'll get a response that is the speaker+ enclosure before the room affects it

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk
I actually thought about this but somehow forgot about it. So this will be my project for tomorrow.
I can remove the right side dip, but the limeted eq in my 80PRS HU also boost the frequencies before and after the dip, so if I boost the dip I gain two peaks. So I think that's a really bad solution.
 

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I actually thought about this but somehow forgot about it. So this will be my project for tomorrow.
I can remove the right side dip, but the limeted eq in my 80PRS HU also boost the frequencies before and after the dip, so if I boost the dip I gain two peaks. So I think that's a really bad solution.
Yeah, the PRS is definitely not suitable for fine tuning like you're doing.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I did some nearfield measurements yesterday and it definitely something inside my car that's causing the dips. But I managed to minimize the dips, so overall I'm happy with the sound. 😎
 
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