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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Clearing out my storage of all the car audio gear I've collected over the years. Not getting out of the game, but definitely need to thin the hoard. I've got some additional old school items listed in another thread

ITEM BRAND & MODEL #:

1) Dayton Audio Ultimax 12 - UM12-22
2) JL Audio 6W3v3-4 (x2)
3) Alpine SWR-823D (x2)

CONDITION:
(New / Used - on a scale of 1-10)

1) Used, 8/10

Powered daily on 500 watts in a sealed box for roughly a year and a half. It's been in storage for the last 3 years or so.

2) New in Box (x2) 10/10

Bought for a transmission line project that never materialized. Grills included, also NIB

3) Used, 7/10 for one, 6/10 for the other

These were in a custom box I'd build for a friend; he had them powered daily on 500 watts for 2-3 years. Got them back in a trade for some work I'd done for him about 5 years back. I've never used them. Some wear on the surrounds, one woofer has a blemish on the cone. Don't have all 4 jumpers, but still have one on each, wired for either 4 ohm or 1 ohm...I can't remember anymore.

PRICE:

1) $160
2) $400 for the pair
3) $140 for the pair ($75/$65)


SHIPPING: Subs are heavy... 50/50?

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION: (specs / features)

PICTURES:

1) Daytom Ultimax

306640

306641



2) JL Audio 6W3v3-4 (x2)

306642
306643
306644
306645



3) Alpine SWR-823D (x2)

306646
306647
306649

306650
 

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2005 SAAB 9-5 Aero / 2008 Siverado LTZ Crew
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Good morning...doing a build and front stage planned. Do you think that these(JL's or Alpines) would mount ok to my rear deck factory 6x9 locations ...and ok to run free air. Looking to get a bump in the low end, use factory spots, without adding sub for now.
Fairly new to hobby and could use some advice...thanks so much!

SAAB 9-5 aero sedan
Fr - Thesis 3way
R Doors - 5" midrange
R Deck - figuring it out
DSP
 

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2005 SAAB 9-5 Aero / 2008 Siverado LTZ Crew
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Good morning...doing a build and front stage planned. Do you think that these(JL's or Alpines) would mount ok to my rear deck factory 6x9 locations ...and ok to run free air. Looking to get a bump in the low end, use factory spots, without adding sub for now.
Fairly new to hobby and could use some advice...thanks so much!

SAAB 9-5 aero sedan
Fr - Thesis 3way
R Doors - 5" midrange
R Deck - figuring it out
DSP
Given the space I have to mount...the JL's will fir in better. Very little space to the sides for mounting
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Good morning...doing a build and front stage planned. Do you think that these(JL's or Alpines) would mount ok to my rear deck factory 6x9 locations ...and ok to run free air. Looking to get a bump in the low end, use factory spots, without adding sub for now.
Fairly new to hobby and could use some advice...thanks so much!

SAAB 9-5 aero sedan
Fr - Thesis 3way
R Doors - 5" midrange
R Deck - figuring it out
DSP
Good morning - I'm not sure, personally, how either set would perform in free-air - assessing T/S specs for that sort of thing is a bit out of my wheelhouse. With that said, these two threads seem to suggest that they will:

Type-R's - Alpine SWR-823D / 843D 8" Subwoofers

JL's - Using Subwoofers in Free Air when they are not designed...

Since you're new to the hobby, be warned: Either option will require fabrication work; they're not drop-in-and-go for a rear deck application. At the very least, you'll want to build some sort of baffle; and you'll likely want to make sure your trunk is sealed off well from the cabin, neither of which are easy tasks. But if you're up for it, it does look like the Type-R's performed well as free-air, and the top post of the thread discussed a practical application. The JL thread isn't specific to the JL's necessarily, rather, "free air" as a general discussion with a reference to the JL's in the top post, but it does seem to suggest that, in theory, the JL's would work. There's a post near the end where OP did, in fact, mount the JL's in the rear deck and took them out because the rattle was too bad - the importance of fabricating a proper baffle.
 

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Good morning - I'm not sure, personally, how either set would perform in free-air - assessing T/S specs for that sort of thing is a bit out of my wheelhouse. With that said, these two threads seem to suggest that they will:

Type-R's - Alpine SWR-823D / 843D 8" Subwoofers

JL's - Using Subwoofers in Free Air when they are not designed...

Since you're new to the hobby, be warned: Either option will require fabrication work; they're not drop-in-and-go for a rear deck application. At the very least, you'll want to build some sort of baffle; and you'll likely want to make sure your trunk is sealed off well from the cabin, neither of which are easy tasks. But if you're up for it, it does look like the Type-R's performed well as free-air, and the top post of the thread discussed a practical application. The JL thread isn't specific to the JL's necessarily, rather, "free air" as a general discussion with a reference to the JL's in the top post, but it does seem to suggest that, in theory, the JL's would work. There's a post near the end where OP did, in fact, mount the JL's in the rear deck and took them out because the rattle was too bad - the importance of fabricating a proper baffle.
Thank you for that info...I will read. My trunk has been stripped to bare metal...then fully treaded. A little more to seal from the front, but doable. I can do some baffle fab, just dont want to cut 10's or 12's into the deck or take up trunk space with a box. So I thought something like the JL's could work? You have been a big help! Does it sound like I am heading in the right direction with with my thought process, and potentially compliment the rest of the proposed build? Thanks again very much
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you for that info...I will read. My trunk has been stripped to bare metal...then fully treaded. A little more to seal from the front, but doable. I can do some baffle fab, just dont want to cut 10's or 12's into the deck or take up trunk space with a box. So I thought something like the JL's could work? You have been a big help! Does it sound like I am heading in the right direction with with my thought process, and potentially compliment the rest of the proposed build? Thanks again very much
Happy to help! Well, it certainly sounds like you're heading in the right direction. I've never done rear deck subs, myself, so maybe someone with some more experience in that areas can chime in on the nuances. With the Type-R's, you may need to do some cutting...maybe an undermount baffle situation. I dunno, I guess that depends on what car you've got and how much room you've got to work with; I know some cars have pretty big openings back there. With the JL's, if you've built a baffle, I don't imagine you'll have many issues. As-is, they should nearly drop right in to a 6x9 opening.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Thank you for that info...I will read. My trunk has been stripped to bare metal...then fully treaded. A little more to seal from the front, but doable. I can do some baffle fab, just dont want to cut 10's or 12's into the deck or take up trunk space with a box. So I thought something like the JL's could work? You have been a big help! Does it sound like I am heading in the right direction with with my thought process, and potentially compliment the rest of the proposed build? Thanks again very much
Found this on Crutchfield: Upgrading the stereo system in your 2006-2009 Saab 9-5

Has a good picture of the rear deck 6x9's, which helped me visualize it a bit. I don't imagine you'll be able to get the Type-R's in there without at least some cutting.

With a baffle, the JL's would fit just fine - my worry would be output, though. The ones I'm selling are NIB, I've never heard them. I have no clue what the output is on them, in a box or otherwise. IB setups need to run on lower power and benefit from larger cone areas. While I certainly want to sell them, I'd hate to sell them for a specific application and that application ultimately failing. EDIT: With that said, the thread linked earlier - while not explicitly referencing the output - seems to suggest it was decent. Decent, enough, at least, for the rattle to be an issue. That's all I've got to go off of, though. If you're a gambler, I'm more than happy to sell them off lol
 

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LOL... Thanks for the honesty its appreciated...I checked the specs of the GS690's that fit in perfect and the specs on the JL's (physical specs) and it looks like the JL's could drop through onto adapter plates ...top mount (I found these)
Looks like the diameters for drop through cutout and flush mount diameter are perfect dimensions. with just enough room. I could then do an enclosure from under? Thoughts?
I will do some more measuring on the car to be sure as well...the pics on Crutch are of 2006 and up...mine is an 05 which is a bit different underneath
 

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Do you think a 6x9 baffle dropped tho0ugh would be enough? The ones I can find ...without building one ...do not seem like they ...lets say they seem cheap! Like metra or the foam ones..
 

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**** I am confused between an adapter ring and baffle LOL I see some baffles that act as enclosure and baffles that are adapter rings...sorry for the ignorance
LOL... Thanks for the honesty its appreciated...I checked the specs of the GS690's that fit in perfect and the specs on the JL's (physical specs) and it looks like the JL's could drop through onto adapter plates ...top mount (I found these)
Looks like the diameters for drop through cutout and flush mount diameter are perfect dimensions. with just enough room. I could then do an enclosure from under? Thoughts?
I will do some more measuring on the car to be sure as well...the pics on Crutch are of 2006 and up...mine is an 05 which is a bit different underneath
And the Crutch link was helpful...so thankyou for that
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
**** I am confused between an adapter ring and baffle LOL I see some baffles that act as enclosure and baffles that are adapter rings...sorry for the ignorance

And the Crutch link was helpful...so thankyou for that
For this particular application, I guess "baffle" and adapter ring" can be interchangeable. What you linked there won't work, though, as those are rings to hold a 6.5 inch mid and a tweeter. What you'd be looking for is something more like this:


or this:


The cutouts for these are a bit too large for the JL's, though - I'd recommend going as thick as possible, so 1 inch for the MDF and 18mm for the PVC, depending on which one you went with - at the max thickness, the cutout is 5.75 inches, and the JL's mounting width is 5.5 inches. Not a huge deal, since the gap all around will be all of an 1/8 of an inch, but it won't be tight. But, if that's a concern, they do make custom sizes, and you can request a 6x9 ring with a 5.5 inch cutout. Regardless, since the baffle would be a thicc boy, I'd also recommend running a 45 degree chamfer with a router all along the underside of the mounting hole - the thick plate will be good for rattle reduction, but may choke the airflow at the sub basket. Here's a few threads on that topic:
 

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Wow...thanks so much. I have some homework! Mounting will be tricky. There is not much room or distance between from the actual steel deck cutout to the underside of the factory grill. Meaning only so much height before the speaker hits the grill. And the odd shape of the factory grill and the way it integrates with deck upholstery is of course a one off. Its a difficult place to get in make measurements both under and on top but doable. I just have to be patient and do it properly as time permits ...I need to get a router as Mine is inop.!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Wow...thanks so much. I have some homework! Mounting will be tricky. There is not much room or distance between from the actual steel deck cutout to the underside of the factory grill. Meaning only so much height before the speaker hits the grill. And the odd shape of the factory grill and the way it integrates with deck upholstery is of course a one off. Its a difficult place to get in make measurements both under and on top but doable. I just have to be patient and do it properly as time permits ...I need to get a router as Mine is inop.!!
That sounds like a challenge - The JL's, as small as they are, have some throw - 0.35in Xmax. Combine that with the 1 inch thick baffle and how high the sub itself sits above it, you'll likely need about 2 inches of clearance. I doubt it's possible to retain the factory grills and deck cover/upholstery with a top mount, not without modification anyways, and if the underside of the deck isn't flat, an undermount would need some work, too. I doubt this will be as simple as dropping-in and going, there's likely at least some modification necessary. Cutouts in the upholstery, perhaps?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
JL's are now on ebay. I don't have the original packaging for the Dayton, but if you want it, it'll go out in a Sundown X box I still have. I've got a custom kerfed box for the Type R's, as well, that I also got back in the trade. Needs some cosmetic love, but made these little 8's sound great. Was originally paint matched for a 2012 Toyota Rav-4. Probably a nightmare to ship, but figured I'd throw it up here, anyways. Western MI, for local pickup.
307159
307160
307161
 
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