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Discussion Starter #1
Old school top of the line Alpine. Used. Scratched up. Sounds great. $125 US shipped CONUS or trade...though there's not much I actually need at this point. Maybe would trade for CDA-9887 with cash from my end.

Don't be afraid to insult me with an offer. I'm just trying to piece together enough cash to avoid the stink-eye from my wife when I buy my next head unit. This beauty served me well for years, but has been sitting in my basement for 1.5 years now after switching to the PDX for my new car's install (very little space).

Alpine MRV-F400
12V ratings:
4x 40W into 4 Ohm
4x 50W into 2 Ohm
2x 100W into 4 Ohm (bridged)
(14V ratings are 60W, 80W, 160W, respectively)
freq resp 10-50k +0,-1 dB
12 dB per octave HP or LP on each pair of channels
I have the manual, but not the box.







 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks, man...yeah, it hurts to part with these old soldiers, but I'm doing her wrong letting her sit on a shelf in a quiet cabinet, too.
 

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Did you see the frequency response on this thing? Flat, baby... +0/-1 dB between 10 and 50k Hz.
 

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Noob question: does it accept balanced inputs? And just for my info, how can I tell in the future from the pics? On one side I see RCA inputs, on the other, just speaker wire outlets..

Doing my first system. Cheers :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey CasualSuspect.

1) Balanced input - I believe that any grounded device can accept a balanced input...and PLEASE...if I'm wrong here, someone chime in...the consequence is simply that the whole circuit is no longer balanced and it behaves like standard non-balanced input (possibly 1/2 the voltage). There are balanced-to-unbalanced converters that would preserve the "no noise over long runs" advantage of balanced circuits, but I've never experienced a problem in a car. Most will run their RCAs along the opposite side of the car from the power cables.
2) Timing of the picture. The pictures were taken about 3 weeks ago. I know this because I took the pictures on the same day I listed this amp with another on these classifieds. If that's not sufficient, I'll be happy to take new pictures with a newspaper in the picture or something.
3) RCA in on one side, speak out on the other. Close...there are 2 pair of RCA inputs and one pair of non-fading outputs on one side (and gain/crossover settings). ...and you're correct, the other side has speaker outs (and 2x 20 amp fuses and power, ground, and remote). There are no speaker-level inputs. This was their top-of-the-line and probably designed assuming those who would use it wouldn't be using speaker-level input.

Congrats on doing your first system. This is a great site for ideas and tips...Just remember: what YOU like is all that matters.

J
 

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First off, thanks for the advice!

Yea, that's generally the problem I'm having with kick-a$$ but cheap old-school amps---they don't accept balanced inputs. My stock HU's signal isn't grounded at all and I don't want to introduce a LOC into the system from horror stories of alternator whine, etc..

Anyways, GLWS! Cheers :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
OH! you're using a stock head unit..sounds like a challenge. Be it inside or outside an amp, you're going to need to use a LOC of some variety. It might be worth investing in a decent one. Depending on what that HU signal looks like, you may need to go with one of those factory integration pieces (CleanSweep, BitOne, PXE-H650). Some are EQed and/or filtered to suit the other components. Have you researched that for yours? Are you keeping the head primarily for teh looks?
 

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Yes, I'm keeping the HU for the stock look. It's apparently a pretty good unit by what people are saying.. Yea the only problem with it (for me) is it puts out balanced signals like you said, so I either need an LOC (like a Peripheral SVEN4) or an amp that accepts balanced/differential inputs directly. Most of the kick-a$$ old school amps like yours don't, which sucks cuz they're both cheap and awesome!

I would use an LOC (only ~$40) but I haven't been able to find one that can take more than 60W per channel. I'll be putting ~100 x 4 @ 4 ohms. The cleansweep and 360 are great, but they're mad expensive. My entire budget right now is only like 700-800.

Funny, at first I was looking at like $400 max! :laugh:
 

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Thanks, Torquem...you guys keep edging me closer to keeping it.

CasualSuspect. Do you know if it's a full-range, flat signal, in addition to it being balanced output? If not, that would be potential problem 2.
 

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CasualSuspect. Do you know if it's a full-range, flat signal, in addition to it being balanced output? If not, that would be potential problem 2.
This is what I found but I don't know what he means by "3 x 3 Matrix... full-range, etc"

====================


The E36 and E46 3-series both use speaker-level signals from the OE source unit to the OE amplifier in the trunk. This is true for HK and non-HK audio systems for the US market.

The 3x3 Matrix for these cars is (from the OE source unit):Speaker-level, Flat, Full-range

There is a remote turn on wire at the amplifier.


Verified ways to interface with this signal:

Amplifiers with balanced inputs (JL, Arc Audio, Zapco Symbilink, etc)

Isolators before amplifiers with common-ground inputs (Alpine V12, audison, etc)


Things you do NOT need to interface with these cars:

ANY OE interface device! No CleanSweep, no 360.1/2, no LC6/7/8, no ReQ, nothing of that sort. No de-processing needed.

============================

From what I can gather, my best bet is an amp with balanced inputs.. What do you take from all this? Any ideas about the 3 x 3 matrix w/ speaker-level, full-range, flat..? Thanks for your help btw!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
This is what I found but I don't know what he means by "3 x 3 Matrix... full-range, etc"

====================


The E36 and E46 3-series both use speaker-level signals from the OE source unit to the OE amplifier in the trunk. This is true for HK and non-HK audio systems for the US market.

The 3x3 Matrix for these cars is (from the OE source unit):Speaker-level, Flat, Full-range

There is a remote turn on wire at the amplifier.


Verified ways to interface with this signal:

Amplifiers with balanced inputs (JL, Arc Audio, Zapco Symbilink, etc)

Isolators before amplifiers with common-ground inputs (Alpine V12, audison, etc)


Things you do NOT need to interface with these cars:

ANY OE interface device! No CleanSweep, no 360.1/2, no LC6/7/8, no ReQ, nothing of that sort. No de-processing needed.

============================

From what I can gather, my best bet is an amp with balanced inputs.. What do you take from all this? Any ideas about the 3 x 3 matrix w/ speaker-level, full-range, flat..? Thanks for your help btw!
I'm not sure about the 3x3 mtrix part, but the full-range suggests you're good to go without a cleansweep or similar as long as you interface before the stock amplifiers.

3 is the magic number in balanced signal transmission, though (in phase+, out of phase-, and ground). So, a 3x3 "matrix" of wire would be needed to send 3 chanels of signal. ...can't be sure that's what this person means, though.

I did do a quick bit of googling based on what was in that post you quoted, and assuming you've got one of those HK head units, you seem to be on the right track.

It's possible this amp would run happily using the balanced input, but I haven't found a single reference to someone successfully doing so. You may not want to chance it.
 

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Thanks for the input J

Yea, I've pretty much been looking for amps that have "high-level inputs" or speaker level inputs. Some of them even accept those balanced inputs but only through RCA jacks. You're right, I will be better off not risking it.

Good luck with the sale. (Or with keeping it! ;) ) Cheers
 
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