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Discussion Starter #1
To say that i'm a casual Ford fan is putting it lightly as you can see from the photo. '10 Taurus SEL, '08 Fusion SEL and a '91 Taurus SHO AND we just sold the '93 Aerostar last week.
http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/8533/theblueovalstablesm.jpg

I bought my '08 about a month ago and It's still pretty Vanilla at the moment, i've only added a set of Hankook V4ES 225/50/ZR17s to replace the wore out Michelins and a rear spoiler so far. It was a Texas car so it's rust free and a solid car to start with.

Before Pictures .... Standard 3.0L SEL package w/ 6speed ATX, 6 speaker/disc changer, leather interior, Sync, etc .....






Other than this damage from the licence plate and what looks like a minor bump, the car is in great condition. I'm waiting for a deal on a bumper cover and thankfully La. doesn't require front plates ... IMO they mess up a car's looks.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
In a previous life, I did the LOUD thing and now at 49 I'm way past that phase. I'm a DIYer so i'm going to do the install myself, I'm just getting my feet wet again in 12v and clearing the cobwebs out trying to remember things and i'm kind of wanting to test the rookie SQ competition lanes out so I'm going with a basic 2.1 stealth (except for the sub enclosure) install geared towards SQ using not "Top of the line" items, but still very good, quality components that I can enjoy and have fun with and yet not go broke buying them. I already have everything listed below and yes, I realize that it is some people's opinion that the Infinity Kappa 6x8s are not a popular choice because they are not round. I might be doing wrong but I'm going to try them out for myself anyways and go from there ... I'm just heading that issue off at the pass before it comes up.


Sound Deadening Products:
Deadener - Second Skin Damplifier Pro Sound Deadening Materials for Noise Reduction from Second Skin
Decoupler - RAAMat Ensolite IUO Peel and Stick RAAMaudio
Noise Barrier - MLV (i've yet to buy)

Head Unit:
Pioneer AVH-P3200BT - w/Remote/DVD/Bluetooth/USB and Navigation/HD & Sat Radio/Rear Camera/etc ... as addons
AVH-P3200BT - In-Dash Double-DIN DVD Multimedia AV Receiver with Built-in Bluetooth and 5.8" Widescreen Display | Pioneer Electronics USA


EQ:
Kicker KQ30 30 Band 1/3-octave EQ w/9V output, this ought to help fill in the gaps.
Equalizers | KICKER


Amplifier
MB Quart ONX4.80 - [email protected], [email protected] From what i've read, it's a good clean amp that gives a lot of bang for the buck.
MB Quart Car Audio -- Onyx Amplifiers


Mid/High Speakers
Infinity Kappa 680.9CS (1 set in front doors) Again, many favorable comments about these and very efficient @ 93dB
Infinity - Car Audio


Subwoofer
JBL GT5-12 (1 in a custom fiberglass enclosure) I'm not using a lot of watts so a sensitivity of 93dB is helpful.
JBL - GT5-12 - 12" Subwoofer with single 4-ohm voice coil
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Car Mods Done
Tires - Hankook V4ES 225/50/ZR17s Hankook Ventus V4 ES H105
Rear Spoiler - Razzi Fusion - Razzi by AAC Ground Effects

Car Mods To Do
Stereo - Starting next week
Window Tint
Lowering Springs - Dropzone 2" drop F/R (Have them, need to install)
3D Carbon Body Kit Ford Fusion 3dCarbon Style Kits | 3dCarbon Website
3M Di Doc Carbon Fiber a few interior pieces

Possible Future Car Mods
Cover the hood with 3M Di Doc Carbon Fiber
Vinyl Graphics
Blue interior LEDS to replace the stock green ones
Modify the head & tail lights to partially "de-chrome" them
De-chrome a few more exterior items
Wheels
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I had 17 trees cut down, stumps ground and myself and two other guys re sodded the yard with 22 pallets of grass so I've been busy doing that, my back is killing me. :D I just got to order the wires/interconnects/connectors last night ... 1/0 gauge for the Big 3 Upgrade and 4 gauge for the rest. A buddy is coming by Sat. to help me start deadening so hopefully we'll start making progress.

I got the Lincoln Engine Cover mounted today, it's too bad Ford left it off the Fusions & Milans.



We installed the Dropzones last Sat dropping it 2" all around ... the Tint is fake in this picture, I was playing with how dark to go. :D
 

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I just got to order the wires/interconnects/connectors last night ... 1/0 gauge for the Big 3 Upgrade and 4 gauge for the rest. A buddy is coming by Sat. to help me start deadening so hopefully we'll start making progress.

I got the Lincoln Engine Cover mounted today, it's too bad Ford left it off the Fusions & Milans.
Chuyler's Mazda6 build, Door Panel Removal and Sound Deadening for Mazda6 - DIYMA.com here is a link, he has a really good how-to deaden those doors and remove the window and interior skin...super easy, no reaching through speaker holes to deaden by the door handle. :laugh:

I like that engine cover....roughly what does that cost? Do you have a part number?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thanks y'all

Notloudenuf I owe you, it's time for me to start paying back :D
Engine Cover 6H6Z-6A949-A Normally $63.00+ with shipping on top of that but I found it for $59.44 shipped from Tousley Ford Parts Depot

Mine had Lincoln on it held on via double sided foam tape so it was easy to pop them off.

The ball studs that screw into the valve cover are from $13.00 - $18.00 each and you need 4 ... BUT I came up with a alternative solution ;)
Engine Cover - Cheap Ball Stud Alternative

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BowDown, your mod thread made me drool :D

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LOL MTopper you almost nailed it perfectly, La. laws are Front 40%, Back 25% and Rear 12%
Welcome to TintLaws.com

Since i've been in the vinyl wrap biz, I have an account with a company and can order film at a decent price, i'm armed with a heat gun and wanting to try tinting my car myself. Do any of you guys have preferences on Manuf and their line of tint film?

This guy's film is dark (20%) on the outside and pretty clear from inside, that sounds good to me, i'd hate to not to be able to see at night. They can even tint the windshield (40%) in his state.
window tint
 

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Discussion Starter #12
They have nice prices .... Knukonceptz.com FTW :D

Shopping Cart:
Item # Product Name QTY Price Total
KFX0R Kolossus Fleks Kable 1/0 Red Power /Ground Wire 6 $3.75 $22.50
KFX0BK Kolossus Fleks Kable 1/0 Black Power/Ground Wire 4 $3.75 $15.00
KFX4R Kolossus Fleks Kable 4 Gauge Red Power/Ground Wire 27 $1.55 $41.85
KFX4BK Kolossus Fleks Kable 4 Gauge Black Power/Ground Wire 10 $1.55 $15.50
FH-44 In-Line Waterproof Mini-ANL Fuse Holder (80A) 1 $7.99 $7.99
BT-104P Positive Battery Terminal 1 $12.00 $12.00
BT-104N Negative Battery Terminal 1 $12.00 $12.00
KLE16BL Klear Kable Blue 16 Gauge Speaker Wire 60 $0.25 $15.00
FH-44 In-Line Waterproof Mini-ANL Fuse Holder (120A) 1 $7.99 $7.99


SubTotal:
$157.82
Shipping:

$16.99
Sales Tax:

$0.00
Total:

$174.81
 

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i work with tint on almost a daily basis so i've gotten to know the % pretty well haha. I have stock 17% on the rears of my SUV, 20% on the driver/passenger and 35% on the windshield. i don't really have issues at night seeing. You grow accustomed to it really quickly.


anyways, i really like your speaker and amp choice. i'm a big fan of MB Quart amps. i just haven't had a ton of play time with them
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It's been a while since i've updated but i've started deadening ....

Warning: ***DO NOT JUST STICK THE TUBE IN AND START SPRAYING UNTIL YOU SEE FOAM.*** Take a minute and read the product's instructions. I've read the horror stories about using expanding foam and it bulging out your body panels or it overflowed and got onto something and ruined it so you need to be careful and use the proper techniques when doing this. 1) To fill a space, you only need to spray in 50% foam needed to fill it when spraying and let it expand to fill the other 50% over time. 2) You need to insert the tube as deep as possible (or get a longer tube if needed and start with it, you can't change tubes mid-project), spray just enough to fill the space and then start to pull back as you continue to spray if you are also filling a channel as we will be doing on this project. 3) If you have to fill a channel with two open ends, stuff one end with poly fill, open/closed cell foam, fiberglass insulation, newspaper, etc ... so that it doesn't expand out so fast, make sure to push whatever you use in further and let it be pushed out some by the foam. 4) If you need to fill a really big space, go slow and do it in two sessions, cans are one time use only and will seal itself off in a few minutes so buy 2 cans. Knowing how much to use or how far to go with these techniques takes practice and of course, these can be applied to other parts of the car. Before you use foam, THINK about what can go wrong, PLAN what you are going to do and in their steps and THINK about it again because there is no undoing this or cleaning up mistakes once they are made. You need to pay attention to trunk locks, cables, wiring, etc ... and plan accordingly if you need to keep foam away from them. Be ready with the rags and acetone to clean as you go, this stuff is messy.

Materials Needed:
1 can of "Great Stuff - Big Gap Filler"
1 can of "Great Stuff - Window & Door"
Painter's Tape
Acetone (or Gas) to wipe off excess foam, once the foam sets, it's there so clean as you go.
A bunch of rags (I bought a roll of disposable towels at Home Depot)
Plastic drop sheet (DO NOT EVEN THINK ABOUT NOT USING ONE!!!)

OK, on with the show .... At first I was only going to apply deadener to my trunk's exterior panel and the shaded areas show the best that you can do to the exterior panel of the trunk due to the small limited openings. All I could get access to was near the panel's bend which is already stiff so I decided to do the job right, I needed to get to the flat panels so deadener alone was not nearly good enough so I decided to find out about using spray foam (aka Great Stuff) to fill the large pockets and channels.



Holes taped up in the section we will be doing first with drop sheet in place and because of the big/thicker spaces I will be using Great Stuff - Big Gap Filler here ... your mileage may vary. Leave tape on for 24 hours.


We will first be doing the part of the truck lid that is vertical when it is closed so I tied a rope to it and something heavy to hold it in a position that the foam would be going down into the spaces, once I got done spraying, I closed the lid to get the foam as deep as possible. Once you are done with this section, let it set up overnight and start on the other section the next day.


On to the other part of the lid, tape all holes except those that you plan to use to spray foam into. Notice the two holes that the red arrows point out, no foam got to that section so if you have foam leftover after this step, shoot some in there if you need/want to, you might as well use it up. Beside each hole I'm going to use, I placed a piece of tape to cover the hole after foaming it. I will be using Great Stuff - Window & Door to fill the smaller/thinner sections and channels.


Instructions per section numbered on picture. 1) Spray toward the center and rotate clockwise the tube to the outside, then pull back to fill and tape hole. 2) Spray towards the section you just did and rotate clockwise and then rotate back counter-clockwise pulling back slightly, tape hole. 3) Shove the tube (you might need a longer tube, but start with it on, you can't change it mid-project) in as far as you can to try to fill the channel, then pull back as needed. 4) Shove the tube in as far as you can to try to fill the channel, then pull back as needed. 5) You can skip this section or add some if you want to, you can't put a bunch here anyways and really don't need any because there is some factory adhesive there already. Move to the other side of the lid and repeat and leave the lid open for at least a few hours and leave tape on for 24 hours.


Foaming done and don't forget the two other areas pointed out by the read arrows if you have extra foam.
 

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Wow. Can't say I would ever entertain that.. and this is coming from a guy that cut apart his dash for a sub. Expanding foam can deform sheet metal without a second thought... Good deal on getting it done though. I personally would of used some kind of acoustic foam jammed in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Trust me partner my knees were knocking right before starting and thoughts of "Do I really want to do this?" crossed my mind. lol

After reading some things like it deforming panels and overflowing I was very apprehensive about doing it and even had the same idea as you suggested which isn't a bad idea because if you needed to, you could dig it back out with a shaft and hook so before starting I read everything I could find (pffft which is very hard on here thanks to the search feature here), watched a bunch of videos on YouTube about spray foam, thought out how I was going to do it and what steps to take along the process, practiced to see how much material flowed from the tube so I could judge how much to fill a space with ..... in other words, I used a cautious, methodical approach and hope others do too, that's why I started off that post with a warning to people thinking about doing this.
 

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Glad it worked out for you. What was the idea behind using it on the trunk lid? Usually mass loading a panel like that is best for low frequencies. The foam would help seal or dampen outside road noise?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
My thinking was that the two panels that make up the trunk lid were flimsy all by themselves, that exterior panel was really flimsy since it's basically two flat panels and not many curves to add strength but if they were fused into one, that it would add strength to them both by using the inside panel's strength since it has a bunch of curves in it's design. What I showed there was just the foaming process so I'm not done and will probably add CLD tiles to the inside of the trunk lid to add some mass. With the limited holes available on a Fusion's trunk lid, there is not much you can do to add mass to the exterior panel or to fuse them together... as you know since you own one. I looked at your install (as well as several others) to see what you did and the only place to fuse together the two panels were at the triangular areas and I didn't think that was going to cut it.

I also thought about cutting access holes to get to those other areas but didn't want to get a bunch of metal cuttings inside the lid from a jigsaw or metal nibbler, I thought about using a threaded rod with jam nuts and a rubber bumper on the end to slightly pre-load the panels against each other .... IMO foaming offered me the best results.
 
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