Car Stereo Forum banner

General Question About Remotes

814 Views 3 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  SPLEclipse
I am a little confused about the proper wiring of remotes. As far as I know I only have one remote wire that comes from the HU. What do I do from there if I have two amps? Just split the remote wire to the amps and processor? My processor (Audison Bit Ten) has two remote ins and one remote out, I guess I can wire one or both remote ins from the HU remote out, then split the remote out on the processor to the remote in on the amps?

Right now is not wired that way, I have not taken the whole thing apart but I see that there are two remote wires that come together into the remote in on the processor. My guess is that my installer somehow run the HU remote split into the amps and from there wired together in the the remote in for the processor. Not sure if this is a problem, but given the fact that my processor has a remote out it may be wise to use it as it could delay the amp remote for staggered powering.

Also, what would be a good way to test the remote wires to make sure I got it right?

Any advise would be greatly appreciated as I intend to take the truck apart during the holidays.

Thanks in advance.

1 - 1 of 4 Posts
If you aren't hearing any pops or other turn off/on related noises, and all of the amps and the DSP (and any other accessories like lights and fans) turn on and off when they are supposed to, then everything is working. If you want to check each component just know that the remote wire simply supplies 12v+ when it's "on" and nothing when it's off.

I'm guessing you have the PPI 88r or whatever it's called. If you are hearing any pops or noises it might be worth re-routing the amp remote leads to the remote out of the DSP. In any case you can always parallel remote wires together up to the current limit of whatever is supplying the remote, so if everything is working fine now and you switch the amps over to the DSP remote out you might have to add a relay like mentioned above. I know my Helix and my MiniDSP remote outs both had enough current to switch on/off 4 amps but I can't speak for your DSP.

In addition, it's always a good idea to add a small fuse (1A should be plenty for non-relay installs) as close to the remote "source", be it the DSP, headunit, or any other source if you don't have one already. That will be enough to cover all of the remote wiring and you won't have to add more fuses after any other components like you would with battery 12v+ amp distribution blocks.
See less See more
1 - 1 of 4 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.