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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 90 Accord. The doors have some leaky seals and dnt sound to good... The wiring for the speakers need work and instead of putting hrs into the doors, I considerd up front mini sub and Mid and tweets on each side of the dash...

Could I achive upfront bass and Good left and right imaging with RS100-4 Mids crossed at 100hz 12db high pass... And prolly 3.5k or 4k to my tweets...

My midbass is my issue.... I dnt know if I can get away with a single midbass sub....... My idea is a TB 5.25" Long throw subwoofer... I have a neodumiun one... In the glove box sealed, covering 70hz to 100hz or 90hz... ?

Is this a decent idea? Im trying to avoid putting speakers in my doors.... Or will the single sub up front crossed at 80-100hz in the center of the car make for a issue? Since it's playing up to 100hz possibly?
 

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doesnt sound like a good idea. if your mids are playing down to 100 and you have bass "from the back", then your (unmentioned) subs are overpowering them at the xover frequency. if you intend to use the single 5.25 for your low end, then highpass it as low as you can while still achieving decent response.

but, if you use 1 per side, you can raise your xover points on those 4" mids.
 

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I have a 90 Accord. The doors have some leaky seals and dnt sound to good... The wiring for the speakers need work and instead of putting hrs into the doors, I considerd up front mini sub and Mid and tweets on each side of the dash...

Could I achive upfront bass and Good left and right imaging with RS100-4 Mids crossed at 100hz 12db high pass... And prolly 3.5k or 4k to my tweets...

My midbass is my issue.... I dnt know if I can get away with a single midbass sub....... My idea is a TB 5.25" Long throw subwoofer... I have a neodumiun one... In the glove box sealed, covering 70hz to 100hz or 90hz... ?

Is this a decent idea? Im trying to avoid putting speakers in my doors.... Or will the single sub up front crossed at 80-100hz in the center of the car make for a issue? Since it's playing up to 100hz possibly?
Ok... First BIG problem, you HP for your RS100-4... Way too low. Freq range says 80Hz but that doesn't mean you can HP your driver safely around 80Hz, far from it - especially as you put power to your driver.
You need to use a higher Xover point for the RS100-4 - something like 200Hz 12dB/oct slope would be more appropriate.

Now for your midbass problem, you need 1 per side since you can locate midbass frequencies lateraly...
Is 5.25" as big as you can go?
How much power do you have available for those midbasses?
You can use a subwoofer in your glove box... midbass? Nope since you need 2 of them.

If you don't want to tackle the doors, try to get some kick panels for your car and make them as solid as possible.

Kelvin
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok... First BIG problem, you HP for your RS100-4... Way too low. Freq range says 80Hz but that doesn't mean you can HP your driver safely around 80Hz, far from it - especially as you put power to your driver.
You need to use a higher Xover point for the RS100-4 - something like 200Hz 12dB/oct slope would be more appropriate.

Now for your midbass problem, you need 1 per side since you can locate midbass frequencies lateraly...
Is 5.25" as big as you can go?
How much power do you have available for those midbasses?
You can use a subwoofer in your glove box... midbass? Nope since you need 2 of them.

If you don't want to tackle the doors, try to get some kick panels for your car and make them as solid as possible.

Kelvin

Ok i see. Thats what i was trying to know was if 100hz to like 70ish hrts would be localizable... My intent was to bring the bass up front of the car..'

I have a Bosten G2 12 for bass duty... Acoustically sealed into the cabin...
Dayton RS100 MIds
Dayton ND20 Tweets

My issue is midbass... The doors needs sealed deadsening and the wiring in them isnt that good... So to get the doors to my standerds would be a LOT of work, on a OLD car...

So I was trying to think easy and simple... Midbass Sub upfront. Sub in rear... And mids and tweet on dash... But since the bass is too directional in the range im going for. Ill have to figure something out...

As far as kicks go... Pass side has plenty of room, but the driver side dosent have any, down side of a 5spd... I could muster one in there but it would cover the fuse box... I love hondas relibilty but im not trying to make the car harder to work on...

Anyuthoughts on a 4" driver in a bandpass tube for the range im looking for? 100hz to 70hz and with the natural roll off of a bandpass box should work out? Or should i be banned for suggesting the use of a bandpass box in sq situation lol
 

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Ok i see. Thats what i was trying to know was if 100hz to like 70ish hrts would be localizable... My intent was to bring the bass up front of the car..'

I have a Bosten G2 12 for bass duty... Acoustically sealed into the cabin...
Dayton RS100 MIds
Dayton ND20 Tweets

My issue is midbass... The doors needs sealed deadsening and the wiring in them isnt that good... So to get the doors to my standerds would be a LOT of work, on a OLD car...

So I was trying to think easy and simple... Midbass Sub upfront. Sub in rear... And mids and tweet on dash... But since the bass is too directional in the range im going for. Ill have to figure something out...

As far as kicks go... Pass side has plenty of room, but the driver side dosent have any, down side of a 5spd... I could muster one in there but it would cover the fuse box... I love hondas relibilty but im not trying to make the car harder to work on...

Anyuthoughts on a 4" driver in a bandpass tube for the range im looking for? 100hz to 70hz and with the natural roll off of a bandpass box should work out? Or should i be banned for suggesting the use of a bandpass box in sq situation lol
None. Simple physic. You have to go with at least a 5.25" driver in order to play down to 100Hz or lower.

Sorry but there's no free lunch :(

Kelvin
 

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I put an IDQ-10 in the glove box of my old 93 Accord.
Now you got me thinking... Maybe the OP could build a sealed box for a 5.25" or even a 6.5" on the lower dash trim panels... downfiring :)

Kelvin
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The blower motor in those cars is huge. It would pretty much prevent something like that happening.
Well I just had the dash out this week to do my heater core... 160K on the chassy. And there is a big cubby hole on the pass side just to the right of the glove box and I wanna say the same space on the drivers side exists.

Im really considering snagging another dash from the jy, and building some mean MT's into the dash... ANd just bolt it in when im ready... I dunno. I had to pull the dash twice durring the change of the heater core... I discover after reasembling the interior that the heater valve cable was smashed between the heater core and the firewall on the inside of the car...DOH...

I just wanna skip all this if I could... I may try and rig somthing up for the driver side like one suggested above...
 

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I have a 91 4 runner and my glovebox seems perfect for a small sub. It may fit a smaller 10 inch like a CW10 I have laying around here.

So I dig this up to get more opinions and experiences. The install would be cake.
 

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I have a 91 4 runner and my glovebox seems perfect for a small sub. It may fit a smaller 10 inch like a CW10 I have laying around here.

So I dig this up to get more opinions and experiences. The install would be cake.
BTW, my main reason wouldn't be for up front bass but so that I can run a sub set-up that takes up no space that I can use when taking a big box out for camping or moving or something. My deck does dual sub systems so that's another easy point.
 

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Heres another idea for you...... sealed wedge type box in front of the seat firing up at the windscreen. If you're good, you can bolt them to the underside of the seat mechanism somewhere so they move with your seats.

 
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