[e36bumpin]

I have the DLS 6.3i three way compinents and two type R 12's. I want a crossover that will let me control the tweets, midrange, mid bass, and the subs. I will be running 4 art series amps. I will have 3 a200.2's for the three way components and an a1200.2 for the subs.

Any suggestions?

 

[Fiercetimbo17]

You can do the h701, but that are said to have floor noise so with rca inputs.
A h900, drz9255 and sony xdp400.
Thats about all i can think of, your choices are pretty limited.

 

[e36bumpin]

Would the audio control DQXS do what i need?

 

[Fiercetimbo17]

nope nothing by audiocontrol will.

You can run 2 360s from rockford and do it that way as well. There is a very limited selection of 4 way crossovers. I believe a ural CDD will do it as well with limited subwoofer control.

 

[TREETOP]

AudioControl 4XS will do active 3-way front plus sub.

Check the final diagram on the last page, 4-way 2-channel system:
http://rs.audiocontrol.com/company_38//4xs_OM.pdf

 

[Fiercetimbo17]

I see that but not understanding how it does the bandpass on the midbass from the subwoofer output

I wasnt even aware they had that unit, theres one on ebay right now if it does the trick.

 

[e36bumpin]

There is now one less on ebay, thanks guys!!!!!

 

[seddon]

I have the audio control 6xs and I have a 4 way active set up. Only bad part is that you have to get the desired frequency modules.

 

[TREETOP]

I have the audio control 6xs and I have a 4 way active set up. Only bad part is that you have to get the desired frequency modules.

They're cheap enough if you know where to get them, for 56 cents each you might as well get even the ones you don't think you'll ever use.

I agree it's a little bit of a hassle though, I'm so used to a knob selecting frequencies by ear in real time that powering down, swapping a resistor network, powering up, then comparing kinda slows the process. It should be a more exact crossover point which is the upside, but I do miss potentiometers..

 

[seddon]

They're cheap enough if you know where to get them, for 56 cents each you might as well get even the ones you don't think you'll ever use.

I agree it's a little bit of a hassle though, I'm so used to a knob selecting frequencies by ear in real time that powering down, swapping a resistor network, powering up, then comparing kinda slows the process. It should be a more exact crossover point which is the upside, but I do miss potentiometers..

I agree that is the only problem I have with audio control but it is a great product.

 

[e36bumpin]

Looks like it might be more time consuming, but it will be worth it in the end...

 

[e36bumpin]

They're cheap enough if you know where to get them, for 56 cents each you might as well get even the ones you don't think you'll ever use.

I agree it's a little bit of a hassle though, I'm so used to a knob selecting frequencies by ear in real time that powering down, swapping a resistor network, powering up, then comparing kinda slows the process. It should be a more exact crossover point which is the upside, but I do miss potentiometers..

having a hard time finding the crossover and pfm modules. Should i just build them? I would love to be able to buy a bunch on different ones to test things out. Ever use the 4xs before? Kind of confused as to how it works.

 

[TREETOP]

having a hard time finding the crossover and pfm modules. Should i just build them? I would love to be able to buy a bunch on different ones to test things out. Ever use the 4xs before? Kind of confused as to how it works.

Don't bother building them, they're just off-the-shelf 14-pin resistor networks. Radio Shack doesn't seem to have them but Mouser Electronics has them for 56 cents each:

652-4114r-1lf

Figure out your frequency for each crossover point, then divide it into 7200 to find the right value in KOhms.

For example, say you want your midbass to midrange crossover point to be 300hz:
7200 divided by 300 is 24, so find the closest one you can to 24KOhms. It happens to be Mouser part number 652-4114R-1LF-24K.

Then say you want your midrange to tweeter crossover point at 3200hz:
7200 divided by 3200 is 2.25. Well they don't have a 2.25KOhms resistor network, but part number for 2.2KOhms is 652-4114R-1LF-2.2K and part number for 2.4KOhms is 652-4114R-1LF-2.4K.
So, you just do the math in reverse (7200 divided by KOhm rating) and decide if you'd rather try the 2.2KOms one for a crossover point of 3272.7hz, or the 2.4KOhms one for a crossover point of 3000hz. The 2.2K one is probably close enough.

It's a crossover that looks more complicated to set up than it is, just look at it for a while and it'll probably start to make sense..

Hopefully this helps.

 

[adhumston]

So both the 4XS and 6XS will do 4 way?

 

[e36bumpin]

Don't bother building them, they're just off-the-shelf 14-pin resistor networks. Radio Shack doesn't seem to have them but Mouser Electronics has them for 56 cents each:

652-4114r-1lf

Figure out your frequency for each crossover point, then divide it into 7200 to find the right value in KOhms.

For example, say you want your midbass to midrange crossover point to be 300hz:
7200 divided by 300 is 24, so find the closest one you can to 24KOhms. It happens to be Mouser part number 652-4114R-1LF-24K.

Then say you want your midrange to tweeter crossover point at 3200hz:
7200 divided by 3200 is 2.25. Well they don't have a 2.25KOhms resistor network, but part number for 2.2KOhms is 652-4114R-1LF-2.2K and part number for 2.4KOhms is 652-4114R-1LF-2.4K.
So, you just do the math in reverse (7200 divided by KOhm rating) and decide if you'd rather try the 2.2KOms one for a crossover point of 3272.7hz, or the 2.4KOhms one for a crossover point of 3000hz. The 2.2K one is probably close enough.

It's a crossover that looks more complicated to set up than it is, just look at it for a while and it'll probably start to make sense..

Hopefully this helps.

Ok, this is starting to make sense now. For a 4 way setup i should be setting it up like this https://myeporia.eporia.com/resources/company_38/tech note 1007.pdf

X2 spot = tweets at 4000 and up 1.8 ohm resistor
X1 spot = Midrange at 360 to 4000 with 20 ohm resistor
P1 spot = midbass at 72 to 360 with 10 ohm resistor
S spot = subwoofer low pass at 72 with 10 ohm resistor
P2 spot = subsonic at 32.72 with 220 ohm resistor

Could I possibly make a resistor that is between 10 and 20 ohms? Mouser doesnt have one and I kind of want to cross the midrange a bit higher than 360. Let me know if everything I said is right though, I think I got the hang of this, not as complicated as it first looked...

 

[Blake Rateliff]

Would it be possible to solder a couple of leads and a potentiometer to one of these and effectively make a variable crossover?

 

[Blake Rateliff]

it looks like you'd just need to wire it so that you had an adjustable range of 360ohms to 240Kohms

 

[e36bumpin]

that would be interesting...

 

[sdsport92064]

Ok, this is starting to make sense now. For a 4 way setup i should be setting it up like this https://myeporia.eporia.com/resources/company_38/tech note 1007.pdf

X2 spot = tweets at 4000 and up 1.8 ohm resistor
X1 spot = Midrange at 360 to 4000 with 20 ohm resistor
P1 spot = midbass at 72 to 360 with 10 ohm resistor
S spot = subwoofer low pass at 72 with 10 ohm resistor
P2 spot = subsonic at 32.72 with 220 ohm resistor

Could I possibly make a resistor that is between 10 and 20 ohms? Mouser doesnt have one and I kind of want to cross the midrange a bit higher than 360. Let me know if everything I said is right though, I think I got the hang of this, not as complicated as it first looked...

I think the reason why people don't like the A/C as much is because they use resistors that make "tweaking" like this a chore. As with all things audio you start with published specs or "what others have done before" as your baseline, and then customize to your car. Unfortunately with this type of A/C product customizing means getting a lot of resistors near your target one because you may be moving up and down, and after a while, especially now you have a 4-way, that can be a lot of hassle.

So don't get married to one set of resistor values thinking that's it. Your car will be different from other setups, and the power you're throwing to them is different as well, so your best points may be near but not an exact match to spec or what others have done before you.

On the flip side once you're happy, your point is pretty much set in stone. No-one is going to accidentally change your x/o point by spinning pretty pots around in your trunk!

That's why like your system I've always loved the thought of active, also had PPI Art's to a complete set (3-way in my instance) but stayed with crossovers that just had the adjustable pots. It was just easier.

My new system is also 3-way but I've gone back to the A/C DQX mainly because it has the quality of A/C but the ease of some simple digital controls to tweak with.

Just make sure to read up on all the threads dealing with A/C's ground point flexibility. I know that I may get flamed for this but the A/C units I have owned, 4XS and EQT's, have had whine issues that needed some thinking and reading of the funny but illuminating A/C manuals before they went away, i.e. A/C is not always a plug-n-play proposition. However you know that you are getting a top-shelf product that has been around for a long time doing one thing, processing, well.

 

[Blake Rateliff]

EG. if you put a 35 KOhm resistor in series with a 300 KOhm Pot you'd have an adjustable range of ~205hz- 21.5hz.. someone correct me if I'm wrong. It seems that you could build several adjustable modules for different frequency ranges this way