[CoastieRon]

First - What I have

2018 Toyota Tacoma Double Cab

What I want to do - Two Way front stage with subwoofer

What I have installed:

1. Kenwood Excellon DMX905s
2. AudioControl LC-61200
   125w Rms per channel, 400w Rms bridged at 4Ohm load ch 5/6
3. Morel CCWR 254 Widebands (using as tweeters in OEM dash location)
   40w Rms, 300-19,000 hz range
4. Morel Tempo Ultra 6x9 woofer drivers in door
   130w Rms, 50-3200 Hz range
5. CDT MX1000SX passive crossovers
6. Morel Tempo Ultra 602 Integra (rear doors)

What I have on hand:

1. Morel Tempo Ultra tweeters
2. Morel Tempo Ultra crossovers

What is on the way

1. JL 12TW3-D8
   400w Rms, 24 - 200 hz range
2. Mr. Marv box for said subwoofer
3. Dayton Audio DSP-408

The Kenwood has settings for active crossover, time alignment, volume adjustment etc. The AudioControl has the ability for HP from 500-5Khz on Ch 1/2 (tweeters), HP and LP on Ch 3/4 (woofer drivers), and LP for 5/6 (@4ohm bridged - subwoofer).
Plan:

1. wire CCWR254s in Ch 1/2, set HP at 3000
2. wire Morel 6x9 to channel 3/4, set HP at 90, LP at 3000
3. remove Morel 602s from rear doors - install in son's car
4. wire JL sub bridged channel 5/6, set LP at 100 (ish)

Solid plan?

 

[Xtremevol]

I got a Frontier and had rear fill. One day I decided to turn the rears off and man it sounded so much better to me. So I left them off for a few days and decided to remove them and go active. It was a huge sound improvement doing both things. I love how you can lower the tweeter gain, cause mine fire straight into the windshield and they could be harsh at times. Do it and don't look back!!

 

[CoastieRon]

So that's the plan. I get 125wRMS per channel @4ohms.

The CCWR254 are 40wRMS

The 692 drivers are 140wRMS.



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[lithium]

can you point out what the xover capbilities of the HU are. I cant seem to find anything suggesting that they can run a 2 way + sub or 3 way system. You plan seems to be a 3 way front stage. You may need an external DSP unless I'm missing something.

There is some speaker size selection but I'm not sure what that actually does.

In addition you will need 1 ch of amplification per driver.

 

[CoastieRon]

can you point out what the xover capbilities of the HU are. I cant seem to find anything suggesting that they can run a 2 way + sub or 3 way system. You plan seems to be a 3 way front stage. You may need an external DSP unless I'm missing something.

There is some speaker size selection but I'm not sure what that actually does.

In addition you will need 1 ch of amplification per driver.

The head unit has x'over settings, as well as time alignment, etc. (pgs 78 - 84).

The amp being used is a 6 channel amp, with the sub using channels 5/6 bridged.

Channel 1/2 would be the Morel CCWR254s

Channel 3/4 would be the 6x9 Morel woofer drivers from the Tempo Ultra 692 kit.

I will be using the widebands as the tweeters - so a 2-way front stage.

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[CoastieRon]

I'm going to edit my first post for clarity

 

[gijoe]

Pretty much every head unit has crossovers, like yours. The Kenwood DMX905S does not have 3 way crossovers, however. You need the 906S for that (kenwood has several other head units with 3 way crossovers as well). You may be able to use a combination of crossovers between the head unit and amp to get what you need, but the head unit alone isn't capable of running a 3 way setup actively.

 

[CoastieRon]

Pretty much every head unit has crossovers, like yours. The Kenwood DMX905S does not have 3 way crossovers, however. You need the 906S for that (kenwood has several other head units with 3 way crossovers as well). You may be able to use a combination of crossovers between the head unit and amp to get what you need, but the head unit alone isn't capable of running a 3 way setup actively.

I'm not going three way front stage. Two way front stage with a sub.

 

[gijoe]

I'm not going three way front stage. Two way front stage with a sub.

2 way front plus sub is 3 way.

 

[CoastieRon]

2 way front plus sub is 3 way.

hahahahaha d'oh

here is this:

That isn't 3-way control?

 

[gijoe]

hahahahaha d'oh

here is this:

That isn't 3-way control?

No, not really. There is no bandpass filter on the mid channels.

You may still be able to make it work, but the head unit is not intended to be used for an active 3 way (2 way plus sub) setup by itself. I have a 906S in my closet that will do it, trying to decide whether or not to put it back in the dash, or sell it.

 

[gijoe]

Send me a link to your amp, and I'll look it over to see if you'll be able to put together a decent active setup with what you have.

 

[CoastieRon]

@gijoe here ya go. I really don't want to get a DSP, but am in the market for a larger screen head unit.....

 

[gijoe]

It looks like you have all of the crossovers you need with that amp, you should be good to go.

 

[CoastieRon]

It looks like you have all of the crossovers you need with that amp, you should be good to go.

No muss, no fuss?

 

[CoastieRon]

Just talked to Josh at audiocontrol (I seem to talk to him a lot - smart dude). He recommended that I do one of the following:

• get a tweeter that will handle more wattage (the CCWR254 is 40 - 80)
• tune gains on channel 1/2 using a multi meter with some audio math (using the car audio calculator to tune gains to 70-80w), then tune the rest (gains for 3/4 and 5/6 are already set, he mentioned I may want to turn the gains down on 3/4 to match 1/2)

Does this sound reasonable? I really do not want to add equipment - though for some reason I think that is going to happen.

 

[CoastieRon]

Moreover, lets say that I get a Dayton Audio DSP 408 - would this alleviate issues as well?

 

[CoastieRon]

So screw it. I got a Dayton Audio dsp. Now my next thread will be "how the hell do I program a Dayton Audio DSP".....

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[CoastieRon]

Updated the OP to add Dayton Audio DSP-407

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[lithium]

i hate amp xovers, good call on the dayton dsp.

I disagree with the tweeter recommendation, no reason to buy new drivers at this point. I think you're going to take some time to come up to speed on signal processing and then work make improvements a few months down the line.

I think fullrange + midbass is slightly easier to tune for a beginner but you can always add in the tweeter if the top end isn't to your liking. Alternatively, you could run the tweeter+woofer 2way if you already have that installed.