DiyMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum banner

1 - 20 of 66 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey all. I'm looking for a middle of the road, decent brand, [email protected] A/B. I don't know what brands are good these days. I remember some of the crap brands like pyle, crunch, etc. Don't want to totally break the bank hoping to spend around 300.

I have a Cadence IA2 which was a real nice amp back in the day. Now it has been 11 years and it's giving me problems. My eyes are going to fall out of my head from searching!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,587 Posts
Hey all. I'm looking for a middle of the road, decent brand, [email protected] I don't know what brands are good these days. I remember some of the crap brands like pyle, crunch, etc. Don't want to totally break the bank hoping to spend around 300.

I have a Cadenxe IA2 which was a real nice amp back in the day. Now it has been 11 years and it's giving me problems. My eyes are going to fall out of my head from searching!
JL Audio RD 400/4, 75x4 @ 4 ohms, 200x2 @ 4 ohms bridged, $300 retail. The XD 400/4 is $400 retail with the same power and a smaller chassis and better quality potentiometers for gain and xovers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys! Maybe that's my issue is I was filtering for A/B. I'm old school and that used to be the standard. I've been reading how a lot of people are jumping on the class D train. Never heard of an A/D, that's interesting. Am I thinking into this too much looking for an A/B? The rest of my setup is nice, if that matters at the end of the day.

Head: kdc-x994
Components: CDT ES-620

Can you convince me that class D or A/D or NexD is okay? :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,631 Posts
Class D amps have been around for 15 years...so noone is "jumping" on any train. You need an amp to power some comps and you have $300 to spend. You can get by with 100x2 if that helps. Maybe find a JL audio slash 300/4 on sale used? That would be a good solution.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Class D amps have been around for 15 years...so noone is "jumping" on any train. You need an amp to power some comps and you have $300 to spend. You can get by with 100x2 if that helps. Maybe find a JL audio slash 300/4 on sale used? That would be a good solution.
Sorry, talking about quality. I have an old class D 1000W RMS that I'm using for my sub but I was under the impression that the quality of a class D is not good enough to use for your main components.I'm ready to jump on any of the recommendations, since you seem to have no issue with class D for quality then I'm inclined to believe that the technology has evolved over time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
299 Posts
Sorry, talking about quality. I have an old class D 1000W RMS that I'm using for my sub but I was under the impression that the quality of a class D is not good enough to use for your main components.I'm ready to jump on any of the recommendations, since you seem to have no issue with class D for quality then I'm inclined to believe that the technology has evolved over time.
I’m still not willing to jump on that Class D train either. Not for full range, anyway. So I understand your apprehension. At this point in tech development, class D amps might be fine compared to others in your price range. I honestly don’t have much experience with them. But I can’t imagine them having the sound/spatial presence of my Mosconis. And I’m just running the One series.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,587 Posts
Sorry, talking about quality. I have an old class D 1000W RMS that I'm using for my sub but I was under the impression that the quality of a class D is not good enough to use for your main components.I'm ready to jump on any of the recommendations, since you seem to have no issue with class D for quality then I'm inclined to believe that the technology has evolved over time.
Class D's have matured into fully capable full range SQ competition ready amps, assuming you buy a decent brand. They still make limited bandwidth class d's for subwoofer use.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,587 Posts
I’m still not willing to jump on that Class D train either. Not for full range, anyway. So I understand your apprehension. At this point in tech development, class D amps might be fine compared to others in your price range. I honestly don’t have much experience with them. But I can’t imagine them having the sound/spatial presence of my Mosconis. And I’m just running the One series.
You can't really compare Mosconi One series amps to a generic class d amp. There aren't many A/B amps that can measure up to those.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,845 Posts
I have an arc audio ks300.2 for sale. Will do 180 ohms x2 at 4 ohms.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
317 Posts
I have read several people say that class D has evolved into a viable solution for component speakers or full range. I would like to do a comparison to see if there is an audible difference. I can't imagine with a lot of reputable companies making class D full range amps that I'd be covering my ears and saying, "Oh, the horror."

I bought my first class D amp back in January, which it is a sub amp. But I can't believe how cool this thing runs. I had been running a 200 watt A/B Sony that got so hot it would burn you. I have yet to feel this Rockford even get luke warm even playing it at high volume the whole time on my drive home from work.

If there's not a lot of difference in sound quality, I'd go with a class D just on the temp factor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,015 Posts
The Rockford amp suggested in post 2 is $230 on eBay...nice small footprint option...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
So that confirms my suspicion on Class D. I went overkill, because it was a good price!

I ended up ordering a Rockford Fosgate P1000X2. It was only $325 and leaves me no room to wonder if I have enough power or not. 300x2 class A/B
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
767 Posts
You said 300 right?
well how about something from Audiotec Fischer
270005

Cont. power rating RMS/Max. power at 4 Ohms/13,8V bridged: 2 x 220 + 1 x 700 Watt (1 Ohm Woofer)

Oh and this is on sale...Refrub ..But..139 and 170 x2 (conservative)
270006



This amp won CES and so far does not have any complants on sound. 127.
270007


Also a $117 and prety sure A/B JBL model called the Ugly Ferengi


this does 4x100 Its sort of a kappa... And so is this both for less then 130 bucks.

Also this Focal. Not sure if its up to snuff.
270009



You could also just buy 2 of these for 99 bucks. so you have monoblocks and will do 150+ that way.

However, this will do 200w easy.
270015

270016


Price and performance? I would pick this one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,425 Posts
I'll never run A/B in a car again, there's no point in wasting a bunch of power for nothing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
I’ve been using Amplifiers from aftermarket companies for 20+ years. From companies like RF back in the Punch 150 days up stuff like TRU Technology.

I’m using a JL Audio VXi (class d) right now and it is the cleanest, clearest best sounding amplifier I’ve ever installed.

Period.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
1 - 20 of 66 Posts
Top