[Thor23278]

I'm sadly making a large downgrade on my audio. The Jeep I built my system in blew it's engine and I won't have the time to build a proper system in my new Jeep for quite some time. New Grand Cherokee's audio is hot garbage. Meh highs, non-existent mids, and overpowered but muddy lows. Have to do something, but that something has to be simple.

So I'm starting with the front. Kicker Key 200.4 behind the factory radio and a set of components running active. I'm using stock locations, 6x9 or 6.5 in the lower doors and up to 1.5” tweeters in the sail panels. I am not afraid if spending money to get something decent sounding, but I'm not sure what's out there that sounds decent at that low of a wattage. Recommendations or experience would be most appreciated.

 

[Slave2myXJ]

CDT Audio is often recommended around here. Working on my first real stereo install, so I know nothing. They're having a Christmas sale right now... Other people will ask what your price range is; it will be helpful to edit your post or add another with that info...

 

[THX0849]

https://www.cdtaudio.com/main_series/wideband/wb_systems/wideband4d.php

Or

CDT Audio The HD-690COM

Sent from my Pixel 6 using Tapatalk

 

[ANS]

budget?

 

[Thor23278]

No more than $600 ideally, but could go higher. I'd say $1000 max, but unsure if there's anything in the price bracket that wouldn't just be wasted with the Key amp.

Tweeter opening is limited to 1.75" and just under a 2" bezel to keep it from looking stupid.

 

[ANS]

Take a look at the components speakers I have for sale, most are brand new: Component speakers, amplifiers, subwoofers, and more!

The Italia hifi and PHD audio work well on low rms power. If you have any questions send me a pm. Happy to answer questions.

 

[gijoe]

50 watts per channel is perfectly adequate for all but the least sensitive woofers out there. Pick just about whatever you like in your price range. Since you are running active you can easily piece together a very good pair of mids and tweets for quite a bit less than $600.

 

[bnae38]

Stevens sa6! Fairly high sensitivity drivers which helps with "only" 50W.

Enjoying mine for sure.

 

[Paul S.]

he's running active, which is bi-amp mode?, so it's 100w/channel and crossover is fixed @ 3.2kh 24db octive for woofer/tweeter setup? I'm a newbie at this too, lol, and have the 200.4

edit: ahhh, 50w/channel, lol, told yah I was a newbie

 

[Thor23278]

Got everything installed on Saturday. I went with the AF GS690s and GS10s. Sound stage is a little too much to the right so I'll have to play with the mic placement a bit while "tuning." I don't know if it's the amp, no control of the dsp, or I was just spoiled by 3-way active, but I'm disappointed. Don't get me wrong it does sound better than stock. I guess I was hoping for more.

 

[AudioBob]

I have a Key 200.4 in one of my cars and had to tune it a couple of times before I was happy wit it. It seemed to work better when I tuned it at about 3/4 volume versus playing at a lower volume. I also moved he mike around.

 

[Thor23278]

I've messed around with the mic placement. I'm much happier with the sound moving the mic to the edge of my headrest and facing it more towards the top of the windshield instead of straight up. This puts it more more or less in line with my right ear. It's still a little right of center, but overall everything sounds much better and the low end is more powerful.

I think the problem was that, even with my head unit fully faded to the front, my rear speakers still receive the pink noise audio. Though quiet, the rears may output enough for the mic pointed straight up to detect and screw up the Key's tuning. Pointing it towards the windshield allowed the headrest to block the rear speakers and that seems to have woken up the tune up front.