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That ADDSP46 looks nice for the price; I've never heard of Audio Dynamics, are they a good brand? It looks like it has a slightly higher output voltage than the MiniDSP, and all I really need are four inputs. My civic only has four output channels anyways, so it would work well for my setup. Thank you for the link!
Thought you might like that. I don’t have experience with Audio Dynamics but they seem legitimate. AudioX sells that brand and some shops in my area do too. I think it has the most desirable features given the price point and I think the same build house that builds the Dayton 408 makes this too. I purchased one of the very first Dayton 408 DSP’s that came out I think two years ago now and it’s still going strong and gets used every day in the wife’s daily driver.
 
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Whoooaaaa dude...,most excellent!
lol just having a chuckle man. not intending to be a deuce or anything! I am interested as to where you believe humility would be a key? I am an Engineer so 'logical simplicity' makes perfect sense :)

Logic and simplicity just left, Why go active if you are on a budget? Passive will make your life a lot easier and allow you to spend your coin on as few items as possible (therefore allowing you to possibly buy better quality versions of those items). Just a thought mate, all the best (y)
Peace
No. It didn't leave, you're just keeping your mind closed. The cost to go active has never been cheaper than it is now. Considering the fact that if one is using a stock headunit with little to no sound shaping capabilities most likely, then you're not only at the mercy of low cost component set response issues, but those of untamed vehicle acoustics as well. To make the most of any low cost upgrade, the power of sound shaping tools are essential.

Even if staying passive is a must, what will be used to maximize response and output?

Man & Machine... Power Extreme!
 

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No. It didn't leave, you're just keeping your mind closed.
My mind is fairly open mate...I am here to learn and to help people if I can. I don't mind being shown a complete idiot; as long as I learn something from it.
The cost to go active has never been cheaper than it is now.
Really? I will concede this point...Australian resident mate...I can't speak for what the US economy is like! If indeed prices are dropping and gear is cheap then that makes a big difference when the word 'budget' comes into play...good for you guys!
Considering the fact that if one is using a stock headunit with little to no sound shaping capabilities most likely, then you're not only at the mercy of low cost component set response issues, but those of untamed vehicle acoustics as well. To make the most of any low cost upgrade, the power of sound shaping tools are essential.
That statement really applies to all builds. Regardless I agree; and I believe that's why the OP is after a DSP. I am all for DSP's if they are within 'budget' parameters.
Even if staying passive is a must, what will be used to maximize response and output?
Amplifiers.

Peace man...I'm not trying to start a beef up with anyone...but some of those statements seem a little arbitrary.
 

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Even if staying passive is a must, what will be used to maximize response and output?
Amplifiers.
Unless you are talking about a DSP equipped amplifier (and you obviously weren't based on your previous responses) an amplifier does nothing to address the "maximize response" portion of Bayboy's comment.

I find it funny how many people love to jump onto DIYMA just to instigate contrarian debates. Bayboy's responses were thoughtful and helpful for the OP and people like him looking to "build on a budget." Can things be cut from the plan in order to reduce cost further? Of course. But the suggestion that removal of the DSP is where you should start, isn't just a differing opinion. It is flat out bad advice.
 

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Unless you are talking about a DSP equipped amplifier (and you obviously weren't based on your previous responses) an amplifier does nothing to address the "maximize response" portion of Bayboy's comment.

I find it funny how many people love to jump onto DIYMA just to instigate contrarian debates. Bayboy's responses were thoughtful and helpful for the OP and people like him looking to "build on a budget." Can things be cut from the plan in order to reduce cost further? Of course. But the suggestion that removal of the DSP is where you should start, isn't just a differing opinion. It is flat out bad advice.
Are you talking to me?
I believe I have offered some assistance previously in this post (post #9, #15...); what advice have you offered here?
I previously suggested an amplifier/DSP combo in post number 15, and then in the post you just referenced was:
I agree; and I believe that's why the OP is after a DSP. I am all for DSP's if they are within 'budget' parameters.
I have never suggested removing the DSP; I suggested running passive as an option TO ASSIST WITH REDUCING THE COST.

All I have done here is try to help. If it wasn't helpful then let me know where it wasn't so that I can learn something new; I will appreciate it!
Giving no assistance to the OP and then bashing me about comments I didn't make is bullshit bud.
 

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Not sure why you're thinking everyone is being combative when it is being shown that a mere headunit, amp, and passives aren't going to do much? If that doesn't fit your narrative... cool. They're all just suggestions... nobody is on here to win suggestion points/awards or whatever. At least I hope not.

I still stand behind my point that it is cheap enough to include some type of response manipulation to make the best of what little money is invested. Whether it is a low tier deck containing crossovers, EQ, & T/A, inexpensive DSP units like Mini or Dayton, or as rton20s has suggested several times since their entering the market... Kicker Key amps which is a great alternative. Most of those suggestions will also enable going active. Factor in the cost of a 2 channel vs 4.... not a big difference.

Still, the fact remains, without some type of manipulation, you're at the mercy of vehicle acoustics combined with any response anomalies inherent to the speaker's design. In my experience, I'd rather have a way to manipulate the response and account for acoustics on an inexpensive but decent set than to have a supposedly esoteric set running straight up raw. Bose follows the same...


But I digress. You're taking things left field which seems to be part of the latest trend here. My latest trend is hitting the "ignore" option.

Man & Machine... Power Extreme!
 

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My latest trend is hitting the "ignore" option.
For the last time:
Everything that you have just written I have already said. I have never said that the OP shouldn't use a DSP. I said that using passive crossovers may be an idea for the OP if budget requires it.
I am not here to win points or awards; I don't believe there are any...? Car audio is a hobby. If I can help some people then I will try; if what I say is proven wrong then I will admit it, apologise. and thank the person that corrected me.
I believe that would be called 'humility'...I feel like someone mentioned this in a comment recently...........maybe someone in post #8......
I'm also not here to waste my time. 'Ignore option' works for me mate.
Peace

OP: ignore all of this and come in with any queries or thoughts. Just continue your post on (if you want!) and completely ignore the last few comments. I AM HERE to help people if I can and will continue to do so.
 

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Unless you are talking about a DSP equipped amplifier (and you obviously weren't based on your previous responses) an amplifier does nothing to address the "maximize response" portion of Bayboy's comment.

I find it funny how many people love to jump onto DIYMA just to instigate contrarian debates. Bayboy's responses were thoughtful and helpful for the OP and people like him looking to "build on a budget." Can things be cut from the plan in order to reduce cost further? Of course. But the suggestion that removal of the DSP is where you should start, isn't just a differing opinion. It is flat out bad advice.
Umm - isn't this exactly what you just did!?! You weren't involved in this thread AT ALL until you felt the need to "jump onto DIYMA just to instigate contrarian debates".

Just sayin....

The OP of this thread is obviously finding the posts by @captainbuff to be helpful as well as he has been expressing his thanks throughout the thread. Just because his input differs from someone elses doesn't make his input any less welcome or appreciated. There are usually multiple different ways to accomplish ones goals - I, for one, appreciate hearing the differing opinions - obviously, the OP does as well.
 

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Umm - isn't this exactly what you just did!?! You weren't involved in this thread AT ALL until you felt the need to "jump onto DIYMA just to instigate contrarian debates".

Just sayin....

The OP of this thread is obviously finding the posts by @captainbuff to be helpful as well as he has been expressing his thanks throughout the thread. Just because his input differs from someone elses doesn't make his input any less welcome or appreciated. There are usually multiple different ways to accomplish ones goals - I, for one, appreciate hearing the differing opinions - obviously, the OP does as well.
Appreciate the 'level headed' words mate...
I'll admit to getting a little pissed when I get called on stuff I haven't said by 'drop ins' who don't offer the OP anything useful and are just looking to stir up shit.
Gents - I don't really know what the issue is here - but for my part apologies for anything that I said that caused you to feel the need to react aggressively. That wasn't my intent.
I say that because there is a new guy here @Codyashi who is after some viewpoints on his potential install. That is what this post is for. Let's all focus our attention on helping the OP.
Peace guys....come on (y)

ps: This seems to happen a fair bit... @Holmz will put down a short comment that could be very helpful; but it gets lost amongst other comments! Mate (OP) I'd recommend skimming back to his post and having a chat with him. I don't know the man really well; but I've spoken with him enough to know he is a wealth of non egotistical information. He's just here to help people...difference being he REALLY knows his shizzle.
Peace bro
 

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I appreciate the kind words, and I already made a comment.

(That sort implied that used gear makes it easier to stay on budget.)
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I appreciate everyone's help on this! After doing some more research, and looking through the numbers, I think I am going to go with the Audio Dynamics DSP. It's only $129, and it's just what I need. Thank you all for your suggestions, I truly appreciate it! When I'm ready for the next phase, I'll definitely jump on and get some more input (on a different thread :D) Take care all!
 

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I appreciate everyone's help on this! After doing some more research, and looking through the numbers, I think I am going to go with the Audio Dynamics DSP. It's only $129, and it's just what I need. Thank you all for your suggestions, I truly appreciate it! When I'm ready for the next phase, I'll definitely jump on and get some more input (on a different thread :D) Take care all!
@Codyashi, just checking in, knowing full well that circumstances can be odd for folks-- any build progress?

This thread has a wealth of info that I've found helpful in the search for a DSP to set up an active 3-way front and sub, with the ADDSP68 at the front of my list at a sale price of $380.

Edit: upon further reading and browsing through the customer support forums, the miniDSP 6x8 for $350 with the UMIK is probably what I'll go for, but I'm still interested in your feedback
 
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