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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi so I just purchased a

JL Audio 1000/1 v2 Amp, Runs about 1000-1300 wrms I believe it puts out more then 1000 easy.

I had a kicker 15 inch L7 Rated at 1000 Wrms, and 1500 peak, it blew the subwoofer after about 2 months of use, not even on full gain!

I was wondering what a good sounding 1500-2000 wrms 12 inch subwoofer would be, I could also go 2x 10 inch 750-1000wrms subs, But I want to keep my wrms atleast 1500+ for woofers so they don't blow.

The amp puts out 1000wrms or more at all times no matter what ohms subsa re at/voltage is coming from battery.

So whats going to sound best? Whats going to sound loudest?

I mean 10s probably wont hit the lows I want to hear as well as a 12 but will be a bit tighter.

Also sealed or non sealed depending on the sub you recommend? Thanks

This is going in a Dodge Ram 1500 2010 Sport Edition. Its going to sit where the seat is after the seat is folded up. if 2x subs will go on pass side if 1 sub will go on driver side.

Should I face the sub towards driver or towards box of truck?
 

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You likely "blew" the sub because you were pushing the amp too hard- distortion kills speakers, not 10-20% more than rated power... My advice is to find a sub and box design that will achieve your output goals without pushing the amp so friggin hard. You likely don't have enough electrical power for the amp, causing it to clip long before you actually get a full kilowatt, let alone 1300.
 

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This seems like a good question for the SPL forum on this web site..

I can't recommend a subwoofer, but having more power available than what a subwoofer can handle is not a problem. Simply set your gains accordingly. If you configure subwoofer amplifier gains by ear, where the goal is to blend the sub stage with the front stage, blowing subs almost certainly is not an issue. If you want your subwoofer play as loud as possible, use the DMM method for setting gains.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
You likely "blew" the sub because you were pushing the amp too hard- distortion kills speakers, not 10-20% more than rated power... My advice is to find a sub and box design that will achieve your output goals without pushing the amp so friggin hard. You likely don't have enough electrical power for the amp, causing it to clip long before you actually get a full kilowatt, let alone 1300.

I only had gain up half way on the amp, its a factory deck with a crossover in place. I don't understand at how half gain the subwoofer would blow, I have a capacitor but the lights still dim with it. I'm putting a second battery in. But I would just like to have a subwoofer that can't be blown by this amp but isnt totally sql based and more tight sounding.


Also if Im building a box, ported or non ported, how do I know to build it so its tuned right? Is there a computer program? i know how to make it the proper size for sq ft volume. Just not tuned right.

So far I was thinking an Incriminator Death Penalty, or Orrion HCCA both the 12 edition. Both 1500 Wrms. or if I have to the Incriminator Warden at 2500 rms then it wouldn't blow not matter what gain is set to? I'm running a 120 amp alternator with the capacator and lights still dimmed so im guesssing second battery will do the job its a huge rv/marine battery.

I mean anything that matchs up to this amp good and sounds better then the kicker. THe kicker l7 15 sounded like crap, absolute crap.

I was thinking of 2x 12 inch JL W7AE but they are so expensive when I could go with one really high wrms 12 inch and save room.
 

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I only had gain up half way on the amp, its a factory deck with a crossover in place. I don't understand at how half gain the subwoofer would blow,
The position of the gain knob on the amplifier does not say anything about the wattage sent to the subwoofer. With strong enough input signal to the amplifier, your subwoofer can blow regardless of where the gain knob is set. The amplifier gain is not meant for 'volume' or 'wattage' control. It's meant to integrate your speaker into the rest of car audio system. If your stereo's out sends low voltage signal to the amplifier, then the amplifier gain should be set 'high'. If your stereo sends a high voltage signal, then the gain knob should be set to 'low'. How high or low can not be discovered with precision without the DMM method that I linked to above. There is no other way to find out how far you can turn the gain knob.

(A small note: This method does have its limitations because it assumes that the subwoofer can handle its rated wattage. In reality this depends on the box type, crossover settings, etc. The rated wattage of subwoofer is usually its termal limit, but some subwoofers could run into problems with overexcursion with a lower wattage than the rated wattage, depending on the box type, whether subsonic filter is used, etc.)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The position of the gain knob on the amplifier does not say anything about the wattage sent to the subwoofer. With strong enough input signal to the amplifier, your subwoofer can blow regardless of where the gain knob is set. The amplifier gain is not meant for 'volume' or 'wattage' control. It's meant to integrate your speaker into the rest of car audio system. If your stereo's out sends low voltage signal to the amplifier, then the amplifier gain should be set 'high'. If your stereo sends a high voltage signal, then the gain knob should be set to 'low'. How high or low can not be discovered with precision without the DMM method that I linked to above. There is no other way to find out how far you can turn the gain knob.

(A small note: This method does have its limitations because it assumes that the subwoofer can handle its rated wattage. In reality this depends on the box type, crossover settings, etc. The rated wattage of subwoofer is usually its termal limit, but some subwoofers could run into problems with overexcursion with a lower wattage than the rated wattage, depending on the box type, whether subsonic filter is used, etc.)
To bad you don't live near me haha.

Ok so what is a good sub with good excursion for this sub going with a ported box probably tuned around 40hz? Also how can I find out what my rca outputs from my deck are putting out to my amp so I can set the gain to high or low? Thanks :)
 

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That I don't know. I suggest to ask on the SPL forum on this web site or the subwoofer forum on caraudio.com.
 

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SQ subs

Arc Audio
Image Dynamics
TREO Engineering
Morel
Hertz
JL Audio
CDT Audio

SPL
Asscendant Audio
Fi Audio
Digital Designs
DC Audio
Elemental Designs

Thats all I can think of right now.
 

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I only had gain up half way on the amp, its a factory deck with a crossover in place. I don't understand at how half gain the subwoofer would blow, I have a capacitor but the lights still dim with it. I'm putting a second battery in. But I would just like to have a subwoofer that can't be blown by this amp but isnt totally sql based and more tight sounding.


Also if Im building a box, ported or non ported, how do I know to build it so its tuned right? Is there a computer program? i know how to make it the proper size for sq ft volume. Just not tuned right.

So far I was thinking an Incriminator Death Penalty, or Orrion HCCA both the 12 edition. Both 1500 Wrms. or if I have to the Incriminator Warden at 2500 rms then it wouldn't blow not matter what gain is set to? I'm running a 120 amp alternator with the capacator and lights still dimmed so im guesssing second battery will do the job its a huge rv/marine battery.

I mean anything that matchs up to this amp good and sounds better then the kicker. THe kicker l7 15 sounded like crap, absolute crap.

I was thinking of 2x 12 inch JL W7AE but they are so expensive when I could go with one really high wrms 12 inch and save room.


Gonna make this really simple for you.
First go here---> http://mediacdn.shopatron.com/media/mfg/9013/media_document/live_1/1000_1v2_MAN.pdf?1305783842

Flip to page 15. follow it word for word and never turn your gain up higher than that.... you may need to actually turn it down a bit more after tuning but thats a whole nother story.

Now next step your box, go here and use this calc-------> Torres' Box Tuning Calculator - SMD Forum

Read that word for word and design a box... since it appears your a bit of a bass head shoot for a tuning of 35hz. You dont want lower or you will not be happy with it. Heavy bass music is not actually recorded that low unless its something like bass mekanik. On your HU put the xover for your sub at no lower than 80hz. On your amp put the subsonic around 20ish. Simply put the subsonic will stop your sub from bottoming out in the inaudible freq its not capable of handling and destroying its self.

As for the sub idk your price range but I would say this would work out well for you---------> RE Audio SXX12D2 (SXX-12D2) 12" Dual 2 ohm Car Subwoofer

Now.... take your crapacitor and throw it in the garbage...just a constant drain on your battery IMO. Do this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p82xRzCr-lc.

Have a loose meat sammich and enjoy your tunes!


This is my opinion on the matter anyway.


Forgot to add... regardless of power if the speaker isnt clipping or bottoming out your not going to destroy it unless you pushing some kind of ungodly amount thru it. I have a 1000/1 running a "600w" Hifonics 12" prolly only really rated at 300... anyway have had it running about 5 years no problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Gonna make this really simple for you.
First go here---> http://mediacdn.shopatron.com/media/mfg/9013/media_document/live_1/1000_1v2_MAN.pdf?1305783842

Flip to page 15. follow it word for word and never turn your gain up higher than that.... you may need to actually turn it down a bit more after tuning but thats a whole nother story.

Now next step your box, go here and use this calc-------> Torres' Box Tuning Calculator - SMD Forum

Read that word for word and design a box... since it appears your a bit of a bass head shoot for a tuning of 35hz. You dont want lower or you will not be happy with it. Heavy bass music is not actually recorded that low unless its something like bass mekanik. On your HU put the xover for your sub at no lower than 80hz. On your amp put the subsonic around 20ish. Simply put the subsonic will stop your sub from bottoming out in the inaudible freq its not capable of handling and destroying its self.

As for the sub idk your price range but I would say this would work out well for you---------> RE Audio SXX12D2 (SXX-12D2) 12" Dual 2 ohm Car Subwoofer

Now.... take your crapacitor and throw it in the garbage...just a constant drain on your battery IMO. Do this Car Audio 101 - The Big 3 Upgrade Tutorial - YouTube.

Have a loose meat sammich and enjoy your tunes!


This is my opinion on the matter anyway.


Forgot to add... regardless of power if the speaker isnt clipping or bottoming out your not going to destroy it unless you pushing some kind of ungodly amount thru it. I have a 1000/1 running a "600w" Hifonics 12" prolly only really rated at 300... anyway have had it running about 5 years no problem.
Thanks learnt a lot from your post, I'm pretty sure my truck is running 0 gage wiring I'll have to double check maybe buy a bigger battery or just install the second one I have. I noticed the capacitor did make my previous sub sund better tho? Tighter cleaner bass
 

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Like mentioned above, the extra power output your amp supplied most likely did not end your subs life. Was your enclosure ported? If so were you running the SSF? If you play a lot of bass heavy content music and there is signifiant information below the tuning of your enclosure with no SSF, then you run the very real risk of killing any woofer.

And seriously, SQ has very little to do with brand of subwoofer. It's more a function of the enclosure and how it couples to both the acoustics of the vehicle and the other speakers in your car.
 
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