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Discussion Starter #1
Ight, so I plan to use an Xstatic BatCap (400) in my system
Im, for the moment, planning to go with 2 RF amps (T600-2 and T400-4) to power ID CTX65CS components and 1 10" IDMax sub

I've read other threads that explain "grounding" and "ground loop interruptions" (GLI's) and all that stuff but since I want to incorporate the BatCap, I want to make sure Im doing things right.

I just got off the phone with a fella at Xstatic who told me the way I should run my power and "ground" cables is to have a power cable from my vehicle battery to the BatCap with two inline fuses, both about 6 inches from each of the positive terminals.
Then run a neutral cable from the front vehicle battery to the BatCap.
Run 2 power cables from the positive terminal of the BatCap to each amp.
Run 2 neutral cables from the negative terminal of the BatCap to each amp "ground". The only spot that there is a "ground" is the connection at the vehicle battery to the chassis of the vehicle
He (Xstatic guy) claims this will help prevent GLI's, due to the fact that the amps aren't grounded to the chassis at the middle of my vehicle.

I also spoke to a guy at Image Dynamics who reported that he has always done his "grounding" this way in the 20 or so years in car audio and never had any problems except one with a faulty head unit ground.

Then, I spoke with a dude at a car audio shop who said that running grounds like this will CAUSE GLI's, and that of course is with his 20 or so years of experience too.:p

Now I dont know what the BEST way to ground, in this situation, is.:confused:

Can anyone help me out?
 

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Essentially, your running power and ground from battery to a bat cap, and then the amps power and ground from the bat cap, correct?

Sounds fine to me, although it may be a bit of overkill in terms of grounding, however plenty of folks do ground their amps to the battery. A distance of 3 to 4 ft for a ground is usually suggested and often times works great.

In fact, whats more important is the wire size and grounding spot...Go as big as you can afford (1/0 awg being optimal).

Also, where are you grounding the head unit?
 

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In fact, whats more important is the wire size and grounding spot...Go as big as you can afford (1/0 awg being optimal).

I've been wondering: How exactly do you properly ground such a large wire, short of welding it to the frame (probably not a bad idea, there)?


I mean, I use ring terminals on 4 ga, and even then it makes me wonder what the purpose of a gianormous wire is when the contact point never seems that great and appears much smaller than the wire itself. I'm guessing the vast majority of the resistance is right there where that connection is.
 

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I've been wondering: How exactly do you properly ground such a large wire, short of welding it to the frame (probably not a bad idea, there)?


I mean, I use ring terminals on 4 ga, and even then it makes me wonder what the purpose of a gianormous wire is when the contact point never seems that great and appears much smaller than the wire itself. I'm guessing the vast majority of the resistance is right there where that connection is.

Look at a fuse element for that wire run. ;)

Distance is just as much a detriment to conduction as undersized gauge is. The distance between the end of the heavy gauge cable and the chassis is very little so there is no need for an equally heavy gauge lug (same as a fuse element is relatively thin compared to the cable it fuses yet it passes the current unimpeded).
 

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Look at a fuse element for that wire run. ;)

Distance is just as much a detriment to conduction as gauge is. The distance between the end of the heavy gauge cable and the chassis is very little so there is no need for an equally heavy gauge lug (same as a fuse element is relatively thin compared to the cable it fuses yet it passes the current unimpeded).


Ahhhh .. lolz Yeah, sometimes I miss the obvious.
 

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I've never heard of "Image Dynamics or Batcap", so I'd go with someone on a street corner or in an audio shop ;)

Next person you pass slow down and say hey where is the batmobile :p:D
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Essentially, your running power and ground from battery to a bat cap, and then the amps power and ground from the bat cap, correct?
Correct.
The only place where a "ground cable" actually makes contact with the vehicle is from the vehicle negative battery terminal to the chassis.


A distance of 3 to 4 ft for a ground is usually suggested and often times works great.
This is reffering to the ground coming off the vehicle battery to the cahssis, is it not?
If so, I plan to make this lenght a maximum of 18 inches.

I also plan to use 1/0 AWG where I can for both power and ground.


Also, where are you grounding the head unit?
This is a good question.
Well, I suppose I could try to "ground" it to the vehicle battery terminal, but this may be to long and complicated.
However, I might be able to "ground" it to the same location as the vehicle battery "ground", provided this idea is an okay way of doing things.
 
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