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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I am in the planning stages of a new build. Actually 2 new builds, but this question only pertains to one. 2000 Chrysler 300M. With all the amps and DSP and everything I plan on running, I will be drawing between 250 and 300amps of current. This is by far the most powerful set up I have ever done. And back in the day, capacitors were unheard of, so I'm treading on new ground. I don't want to fry the electrical system (obviously) or keep replacing alternators/batteries. Sub amp will draw about 150 amps itself, the other equipment about 150 amps combined. Already planning on running a Stinger SPC505 5 farad hybrid cap. The alternator I'm considering is 320 amp max, 180 idle amp, but is nearly $500! Stock alternator is 130 amp. Also, I have only been able to find one supplier that has an H/O alternator for my vehicle. Maybe you guys know somewhere to look? Should I also add a second battery or will the alternator/cap be enough?
 

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CAP is a nono.

Second battery is a nono.

Battery: Die Hard Platinum to replace your main

Do the big 3 and run 0gauge wire

What are the amps your running and a good alt will cost you an arm and a leg.

Wire/ amp installation needs: http://www.knukonceptz.com/

What I would do: Run the new wire and properly set your car up, do the big 3 and see if you have excessive voltage drop. If so, then replace it.

Note: why would you run something that requires so much draw?

I run 220 per mids (2). 220 per tweeter (2) and 600 between two jl12w6v2's and it draws less then 55 amps full tilt.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Why is a cap and second battery a no no?

I don't use die hard, have my own preference when it comes to batteries.

I can get stinger stuff on DEEP discount. MUCH cheaper than knu, Ive already checked them out. My experience (which was 12+ yrs ago) plus the opinions of many in the industry now, most of the big names (stinger, monster, streetwires, knu, etc) are pretty much on par with one another. Just a matter of price & preference.

If I stick with the amps I have on hand: MB Quart ONX1.1500D (140 amp max), 2 - MB Quart ONX4.80 (50 amp max each), either MS8 or bitone. 100w to each midbass (2), 100w to each tweeter (2), 100w to each rear fill (2), 100w to center channel (1), 500w to each sub (2). May upgrade amps depending on budget, but wattage will remain in the same neighborhood.
 

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Do not know.
Everywhere i read says add a battery as close to the amps as possible.
This is a good product with a good web site Kinetik High Current Power Cells

Simular to posted: Do the big three - Run good cables -Add enough batteries to handle the load.
Then if there is a problem with the Alt keeping up: Get out the vacation money and look for a large output Alt.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I am already planning 0 gauge wire. I've been reading mixed things about batteries/alternators. One source says batteries only store energy (I already know this) but if the system draws more than 20% more than the alternator puts out, you will be in trouble. I don't listen to everything at full volume at all times, and Im sure it will be even lower on this build (I am using a lot of sound deadening, which I have never done before), which should kill or at least reduce road noise substantially, thus no need to crank it. I wont be driving everything to the max, just dont want to cause myself problems. "An ounce of prevention . . . . . lol
 

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Seems many here do not like extra batteries.
Here is my thought process.
The electrical system runs off the battery.
The Alternator is there to maintain the batteries.
So putting the load on the Alternator does not pencil out in my head.
 

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Stinger is inferior wire in every way and shape!

Wire isn't just wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Seems many here do not like extra batteries.
Here is my thought process.
The electrical system runs off the battery.
The Alternator is there to maintain the batteries.
So putting the load on the Alternator does not pencil out in my head.
Before I became I firefighter paramedic, I was an ASE certified mechanic for a while. The alternator is not there to maintain the batteries. Batteries are there for 1) starting power and 2) store extra energy for demands when the electrical system needs more than the alternator provides. The alternator provides power for the electrical system and charges the battery with whatever extra power it puts out. Don't believe me? Start your car up and pull the positive battery cable off. The car remains running and so does all accessories unless the demand is higher than the output of the alternator. This is why if your car dies while running & doesnt have enough power to restart, its the alternator. If the car runs fine, but as soon as you shut it off, it doesnt have enough power to start, the battery cannot store the power and therefore the battery is bad.

Stinger is inferior wire in every way and shape!

Wire isn't just wire.
Not saying stinger is the best. However, I refuse to pay as much for wire as I do the components within my system. ESPECIALLY when my ears or the longevity of the equipment cannot tell the difference. That's like saying Ford is inferior in every way and Chevrolet makes the best vehicles in the world. Besides, thats not the question I posed, is it? Stick to the subject please.
 

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Seems many here do not like extra batteries.
Here is my thought process.
The electrical system runs off the battery.
The Alternator is there to maintain the batteries.
So putting the load on the Alternator does not pencil out in my head.
Wrong. Battery is there to start the car and to use certain electrical features with the car off. Alternator is there to run the car and charge the battery.
 
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