Epiphany: sealing door holes kindof renders stock vapor barrier useless doesn’t it... should probably just throw that out...
Having trouble popping door panels on after CLD+CCF, any tricks for finding the problem spots?
2013 Honda Pilot. My first door panel was super hard to pop back on, I had to remove a lot of CCF.
Here's my door process:
![293206]()
![293207]()
![293208]()
![293209]()
![293210]()
And I had actually put CCF all over the plastic panel as well, but ripped it all off due to my issue.
Basically, my panel was not popping back on. Forget MLV on the Pilot haha. I guess I thought the CCF would be easier to compress. I had to cut all the edges of the CCF away after that picture with the inner door just to get it on, and it was still incredibly hard-- there is 1 screw holding it, thank god because the clips felt about to burst. And even though I got the clips to pop in, there is still a roughly 1/8" gap from the panel to the metal at parts.
On my next door I will be using a knife to cut out circles of the Dynamat around the screw heads since they are hex heads not panheads, and so are kindof thick, don't need CLD on them...
The thing is, everywhere I want to apply CCF to to avoid plastic vibration, results in that region being too thick-- so like isn't that kindof counterintuitive of the purpose of CCF?
What I really came here to ask is, does anyone have a good trade trick of finding contact points in a door to "mark" your pressure points, so you don't have to put it on, cut some foam, repeat 10x until you can finally snap on the door without a ton of pressure wanting to pop it back off?
Here's my door process:
And I had actually put CCF all over the plastic panel as well, but ripped it all off due to my issue.
Basically, my panel was not popping back on. Forget MLV on the Pilot haha. I guess I thought the CCF would be easier to compress. I had to cut all the edges of the CCF away after that picture with the inner door just to get it on, and it was still incredibly hard-- there is 1 screw holding it, thank god because the clips felt about to burst. And even though I got the clips to pop in, there is still a roughly 1/8" gap from the panel to the metal at parts.
On my next door I will be using a knife to cut out circles of the Dynamat around the screw heads since they are hex heads not panheads, and so are kindof thick, don't need CLD on them...
The thing is, everywhere I want to apply CCF to to avoid plastic vibration, results in that region being too thick-- so like isn't that kindof counterintuitive of the purpose of CCF?
What I really came here to ask is, does anyone have a good trade trick of finding contact points in a door to "mark" your pressure points, so you don't have to put it on, cut some foam, repeat 10x until you can finally snap on the door without a ton of pressure wanting to pop it back off?
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Update: on the front doors, the holes had a big enough flange where I could mount the hole panels “inside” the recess:
![293312]()
I did get panhead screws, but once I popped off the panel and found this out, old screws seem fine as they don’t stick out past the front metal.
went more conservative with the CCF, and the door popped on perfectly. But it still makes me wonder what parts of the plastic that are touching the door that need CCF and would make the panel hard to pop on, don’t have CCF on them. Guess I’ll have to play the game of putting it on, listening for rattles, fixing, repeat— hopefully there are none!
I did get panhead screws, but once I popped off the panel and found this out, old screws seem fine as they don’t stick out past the front metal.
went more conservative with the CCF, and the door popped on perfectly. But it still makes me wonder what parts of the plastic that are touching the door that need CCF and would make the panel hard to pop on, don’t have CCF on them. Guess I’ll have to play the game of putting it on, listening for rattles, fixing, repeat— hopefully there are none!
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