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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a 1990 RX7 with headrest speakers. The stock speaker is a funny 2.5" x 4" oval in a little box. A lot of people replace these with 3.5 coaxials due to the greater choice of products and superior sound.


Stock speakers with box backs removed

Some people remove the old boxes and just stuff the speaker in the old opening sticking the magnet right to the metal backing plate, just a little ghetto. Others cut the sides out of the old boxes and place the speakers inside hanging out each side.



To me it would seem to be better if the speakers were in a sealed box. Is it worth my

To me it would seem to be better if the speakers were in a sealed box. Is it worth my while to make a couple of small rear pods to sit the speakers in, even if it's just a piece of capped pvc pipe or something the same diameter of the speaker so the back is sealed. Then just a small grill to protect the front. TIA
 

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If you want good SQ, never EVER use headset speakers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
At seventy miles an hour with the top down and the V8 roaring I'm happy just to hear music at all. Audiophile SQ will never be archived in this car.
 

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same in the MX5 world. So many love those speakers!! makes me wonder if people have any idea of how 'Music " should sound!! i have a SQ install in my Mx5 and i can hear it fine. but at 80mph i also want the mix of the music with the sound of the "drive"


And your car does not sound like a V8 !
 

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You put a vette engine in that?

Golf clap :)
You're and idiot....the conversion has gotten very easy with tons of kits and the result is fantastic.



You know what would be sick as hell? So I'm assuming you have midbasses in the doors right? If you got a normal 4ohm component set that you mounted in a traditional way (midbass in doors and tweeters on the a pillars or something) you could have some great SQ. If you made a speaker switch that allowed you to switch the tweeters you had on you could mount those in your seat headrests.

Think about it; normal driving with the top up you'd have your normal setup with 4 ohm tweeters playing. If you put the top down you flip a switch and change over to 2 pairs of 8ohm tweeters (one pair in each seat) that will still wire down to 4 ohms on the amp and crossover so the crossover frequency and power stay the same. It would allow you to keep a left and right sounds separate and still have both you and the passenger getting nearly identical sounds.

Plus, it would be easier to get tweeters in a headrest like that rather than a large speaker. I would imagine though that you'd want to get a low efficiency tweeter though so it is not as loud since it would be closer to your head.
 

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very nice car with a surprise... LOVE IT... I helped build a Monster Miata/MX5 & one of the Focus V-8 swaps over the last couple years... gotta love sleepers...

I would do a combo.... set it up for SQ & then add a dedicated, small 25-30w/ch amp for a pair of wider range dedicated speakers for the headrests...

I guess my question is, @ speed... what are you having trouble hearing the most? the mids/highs or the bass?

Bass, easy fix... more power & more cone area. if its mids/highs (like my Pig-Noisy WRX on the highway) than go here:

The Madisound Speaker Components Store

I don't remember... does each seat have (2) speakers (one each side of your head) or just one in the middle of the car? I think (4) whispers (Aura 2" full rangers) would be a great addition....

Not like you are going to compete with the car... & you can turn them off when @ slower speeds or whatever....

That's how I have done MANY Miata's, except using Radio Shack drivers. Now that I know of the Aura's & the Tang Band full rangers... even better options..

whats the box at the very front of the car, driver's side with the round knobs?

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
To answer a few questions.

1) It's not actually a Corvette motor. It's a 5.3L Gm series 3 motor with a few mods. Makes about 350hp/350tq on a good day.

2) The little box with the "knobs" is a fuse box for the engine, those are fuses you see (glass style).

As you might imagine all my $$$ has gone into the drivetrain of the car, the stereo I have to piece together with scraps of what I can. I'm no car audio guru and a lot of the stuff on this forum goes over my head. I understand enough to get me by, like crossovers and basic system setup. I'm on a tight budget so I acquire pieces as I can, one day all the pieces will come together. I wasn't sure what was installed every where so I inventoried it today.


Head unit- Clarion DXZ575USB, 6volt pre outs and the usb is what sold me.

Amp- A locally made piece (Dominator by PLE Electronics?) 4 Channel 60W X 4 or 180W X 2, 4 - 8 Ohm

Subwoofer- Alpine Type S 10" dual 4 Ohm voice coils in a custom box. The box is sized right but is an odd shape due to space restrictions, filled with hollow fill batting. I ended up with the dual coil by mistake I thought I was getting a single coil.

Front speakers- 6.5 coaxials of Chinese manufacture. These came in the car when I bought it, from what the seller said I was under the impression they were a brand name, I discovered differently this morning.:surprised: They haven't sounded bad though.

Rear speakers- These are the headrest speakers (fried), two in each headrest, one on either side of the headrest. There is no room to put anything else behind due to the convertible top and spare tire. Currently they are hooked up to a factory amp (crap) with their own controls on the center console (nice).


The amp has the front speakers on two channels and the sub is bridged on the other two channels. I just noticed only one voice coil is hooked up to the sub, this is wrong I'm sure. I'm not sure if they need to be hooked together to make an 8 Ohm load (I think yes) or each coil run off one channel at 4 Ohms (I think no).

This is what my newbie/naive mind thinks. With the top up the sound is OK, better front speakers with tweeters added would go a long way. I don't really use the headrests with the top up. With the top down the sound fades away from noise, mostly the mids and highs, the sub takes care of the lows OK. I read about someone putting tweeters in the headrests and it was a bad mistake. Since these speakers are right at your ears a ton of power shouldn't be needed. People that have gone the 3.5 coaxial route say it's close to wearing headphones


 

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that is a beautiful car. ls1 owns. and nobody knows it should be a mid 12 car with barely anything besides the swap and some sticky tires. wrxwagons idea is great if you think you cant have cake and eat it too. id imagine space is at a premium in that car though.
oops..edit....5.3 is still a great motor with some kick.
 

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Well, that is a horse of a different color :)


Sweet car.... a friend is doing the same thing, but not convertible. Tremec T6 and a LSX with blower and nitrous. Getting big rubber with those strut towers is his biggest challnge.

I love all thing loud and fast, so my opinion is forget the tunes and listen to the exhaust and screaming tires :)
 

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I agree with rob in terms of a widebander, that blau tweet is FAR from refined and at that range to yr 'ol noggin it will be like ice-picks in your ears. A smooth widebander with EQ if needed would be nice
 

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You know, I was thinking 3" HiVi drivers...or nothing at all.

I had an '86 RX7, same basic feel of the interior...the doors will hold some massive speakers with some door card work. I'd recommend doing that before ever putting speakers in your seat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
As you see there are some pieces of poo in my system right now. When I was looking at the Aurasound site today I saw they made a replacement OEM speaker for the headrests.
Aurasound NS2x3-184-4A Aurasound 2" x 3" Full Range - 4 ohm from Madisound
I'm sure they wouldn't sound as nice as one of the 3" round midrange speakers but it's a bolt in.

I've been searching and reading today about DVC subs and the wiring and I'm just confused about one thing. My sub is a DVC 4 ohm so it can be wired 2 ohm or 8 ohm. I read "Most modern amps are stable at 2 ohms" but nowhere in the specifications for my amp does it mention 2 ohms, just the output in stereo (with no ohm rating) and the bridged output at 4 ohms. In the wiring diagrams for various configurations it shows the speakers and subs with "4-8 ohms". Do you think it's a piece of crap and I shouldn't try and run it at 2 ohms?

Sorry for all the noob questions but we all gotta learn somehow.


 

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if you run 4 separate channels you can run them at 4 or 2 ohms. when you bridge 2 channels together you dont want to put lower than a 4 ohm load on the bridged channels.
http://www.bcae1.com/asystems.htm
this may or may not suit your exact setup but it will give a good general idea of various setups you may be interested in.
 

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an amp stable at 2ohm stereo is by design a 4ohm mono amp. That's how it works. You put a 2ohm sub on that amp, and you're likely to let the magic smoke out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
an amp stable at 2ohm stereo is by design a 4ohm mono amp. That's how it works. You put a 2ohm sub on that amp, and you're likely to let the magic smoke out.
So by design this is a 4ohm stereo amp and it would be safer to run my sub at 8 ohms.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
if you run 4 separate channels you can run them at 4 or 2 ohms. when you bridge 2 channels together you dont want to put lower than a 4 ohm load on the bridged channels.
Since I'm using one sub with DVCs, running a separate channel to each coil (at 4 ohms) is a bad idea because the channels can conflict and cancel each other, correct? So 8 ohms it must be.
 
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