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I would do the timing, then the EQ, then do the timing again.

The instructions say to make sure a full range signal is applied to input channels A&B, but in my case I'm only feeding it a digital signal. I normally play tracks on my laptop, going through an analog jack into my head unit, then from there as digital back to the helix. Can I just follow this same procedure, just play this AMT test track from my laptop ?
I know that sounds pretty basic, but those instructions are a little confusing to me on this point.
I would do the timing, then the EQ, then do the timing again. (good point)

I am also using digital inputs, but playing the ATM track using bluetooth from my DAP.

Ensure mic level was 100% in device properties, windows had mine at 75%.
 

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Oh - so the ATM actually works with the digital input on the Helix? I thought someone said that you MUST use analog inputs for ATM to work.... Maybe that was an assumption though, based on the confusing description mentioned above. :)
 

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Oh - so the ATM actually works with the digital input on the Helix? I thought someone said that you MUST use analog inputs for ATM to work.... Maybe that was an assumption though, based on the confusing description mentioned above. :)
it worked for me. Analog inputs are optional and must be full range stereo.

280568
 

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One other issue I noticed is the ATM interface will omit or hide some channels based what label (name) you give them.

(channels with duplicate names are not displayed and the ATM randomly decides which duplicate it shows.)

I have rear surrounds and also rear door speakers. Both sets were labeled "Rear L Full" and "Rear R Full", but the ATM will only show one set.

280569


Even if I re-label both rear surrounds to "Rear Fill Full", only one "Rear Fill Full" channel displays in the ATM.

280570


My only solution is to use labels "Rear L Mid" and "Rear R Mid" for the surrounds.

BTW, Why aren't there LEFT and RIGHT labels for the FILL options in IO?
 

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By the way - it looks like the digital input option was just added in 4.72a - it didn't even exist in 4.70a, so that explains why someone else said that you had to analog inputs - because you did before 4.72a. :)

All makes sense now. Good to know that you can do it with digital inputs now.

Personally, I'm still or 4.52a. :) While I normally like be on the "latest and greatest" versions with most things, I has issues when I tried to upgrade to 4.60, so I've been reluctant to upgrade lately.... May finally be time though.
 

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By the way - it looks like the digital input option was just added in 4.72a - it didn't even exist in 4.70a, so that explains why someone else said that you had to analog inputs - because you did before 4.72a. :)

All makes sense now. Good to know that you can do it with digital inputs now.

Personally, I'm still or 4.52a. :) While I normally like be on the "latest and greatest" versions with most things, I has issues when I tried to upgrade to 4.60, so I've been reluctant to upgrade lately.... May finally be time though.
Yes, that was changed so that you didn't have to redirect the signal in the IO screen just to go back and change it later.
 

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Can someone kindly ask ATF to add a one click "solo" option for all channels? :unsure:

I have 12 channels and selecting mute on 11 or less channels is kinda tedious. :sneaky:

Use case:
  • Add the letter S next to every channel in the DSP software. (next to the mute icon)
  • User clicks the S next to ANY channels they want to listen to solo. All other channels are automatically muted.
  • The mute icon is toggled automatically on any muted channels when S is selected or deselected.
  • The S changes color on any channel to indicate that it is selected on that channel.
  • The user can select a single channel or multiple channels to solo, or sets or groups. (no limits)
  • If any S channel is de-selected, then it goes back to mute.
  • If the last S channel is de-selected, then all channels are automatically un-muted.

...OR a simple "mute all" button. :D
 

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So trying to check this out to see what it's about but not working for me.

The instructions say to copy the files from the soundfiles folder to a USB stick etc. I'm using a phone through bluetooth into the head unit. The only files in that folder are a wav and mp3 of the same thing, a left-right speaker "pop".

When i play a pink noise file to set volume I'm able to get the bar on top of the screen into the green area right in the middle.

I begin playing the test file on the phone (i can see it registering the pop on the top bar) but the instant i hit start it mutes the sound and it eventually times out saying nothing detected

Yes i have my UMIK as the source microphone on the ATF software settings and in the laptop {100 volume}.

Where am i messing up? Sorry if it's something stupid i missed, but i don't see why it's muting the sound when I hit start. DSP 2 by the way, of that makes s difference.

Sent from my HD1905 using Tapatalk
 

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So trying to check this out to see what it's about but not working for me.

The instructions say to copy the files from the soundfiles folder to a USB stick etc. I'm using a phone through bluetooth into the head unit. The only files in that folder are a wav and mp3 of the same thing, a left-right speaker "pop".

When i play a pink noise file to set volume I'm able to get the bar on top of the screen into the green area right in the middle.

I begin playing the test file on the phone (i can see it registering the pop on the top bar) but the instant i hit start it mutes the sound and it eventually times out saying nothing detected

Yes i have my UMIK as the source microphone on the ATF software settings and in the laptop {100 volume}.

Where am i messing up? Sorry if it's something stupid i missed, but i don't see why it's muting the sound when I hit start. DSP 2 by the way, of that makes s difference.

Sent from my HD1905 using Tapatalk
I had to do a reset to get everything to work correctly after updating to DSP PC-Tool v4.72a.
  • Did you add the UMIK-1 calibration data to the DSP cal.txt file and then restart the software? No other "cal2.txt" or "cal -Copy.txt" files should be in that folder.
  • Are you sure the UMIK-1 mic volume level is 100% in device properties?
  • Did you un-link any linked channels before starting?
  • Did you verify no channels are muted before starting?
  • Are you playing the file named "timeMeasurementClick"? (either .mp3 or .wav).
  • Did you remove any additional EQ and set Fade (0) from your source player and head unit?
  • Is your audio input level at the highest (green) level it can be before starting a measurement? I let it go red and back off slowly until it returns and stays at green again.
  • Are there red check marks next to all speakers before you start?
  • Did you select a reference speaker and input the correct distance? (in CM)
  • Is the correct input selected in the input selection section before you start?
  • What version of the DSP software are you using?
  • Is the firmware on your DSP.2 the latest version?
When measurement starts you should hear pops jumping from the reference speaker to a single speaker and back. No other speakers should be playing audio.

The large white text at the bottom of the screen tells you which speaker is currently being measured and what adjustments are being applied in real time.

As each individual speaker is being measured there will be small text next to the speaker name that says something like "Measuring" or "Calibrating". (can't remember)
 

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Can someone kindly ask ATF to add a one click "solo" option for all channels? :unsure:

I have 12 channels and selecting mute on 11 or less channels is kinda tedious. :sneaky:

Use case:
  • Add the letter S next to every channel in the DSP software. (next to the mute icon)
  • User clicks the S next to ANY channels they want to listen to solo. All other channels are automatically muted.
  • The mute icon is toggled automatically on any muted channels when S is selected or deselected.
  • The S changes color on any channel to indicate that it is selected on that channel.
  • The user can select a single channel or multiple channels to solo, or sets or groups. (no limits)
  • If any S channel is de-selected, then it goes back to mute.
  • If the last S channel is de-selected, then all channels are automatically un-muted.

...OR a simple "mute all" button. :D
FYI - not sure if you are aware of this or not, but you can mute channels without going to each and every channel. Just click on the little speaker icon on the right-hand-side of the Helix interface (I circled them here for you):



Also - an even quicker way is to use the 1 - 9 number keys on your laptop keyboard to mute/unmute (at least for channels 1-9, not sure about 10-12!).

You may already know both of these methods, but just wanted to point them out in case you didn't know about them already. :)
 

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FYI - not sure if you are aware of this or not, but you can mute channels without going to each and every channel. Just click on the little speaker icon on the right-hand-side of the Helix interface (I circled them here for you):



Also - an even quicker way is to use the 1 - 9 number keys on your laptop keyboard to mute/unmute (at least for channels 1-9, not sure about 10-12!).

You may already know both of these methods, but just wanted to point them out in case you didn't know about them already. :)
Yes, that just mutes a single channel at a time. it's not "mute all channels" " or instant "solo" channel.

it would also be nice to have a single master output volume slider, to lower all channel volume outputs at once.

I had an input device with a known issue that would make the volume go to 100% max when you tried to make a bluetooth call.

If the Amp didn't have the master output volume slider, I couldn't test it this issue very well.

Luckily, general output volume could be set to lower than 50%, so I wouldn't blow any speakers and my ears.
 

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I had to do a reset to get everything to work correctly after updating to DSP PC-Tool v4.72a.
  • Did you add the UMIK-1 calibration data to the DSP cal.txt file and then restart the software? No other "cal2.txt" or "cal -Copy.txt" files should be in that folder.
  • Are you sure the UMIK-1 mic volume level is 100% in device properties?
  • Did you un-link any linked channels before starting?
  • Did you verify no channels are muted before starting?
  • Are you playing the file named "timeMeasurementClick"? (either .mp3 or .wav).
  • Did you remove any additional EQ and set Fade (0) from your source player and head unit?
  • Is your audio input level at the highest (green) level it can be before starting a measurement? I let it go red and back off slowly until it returns and stays at green again.
  • Are there red check marks next to all speakers before you start?
  • Did you select a reference speaker and input the correct distance? (in CM)
  • Is the correct input selected in the input selection section before you start?
  • What version of the DSP software are you using?
  • Is the firmware on your DSP.2 the latest version?
When measurement starts you should hear pops jumping from the reference speaker to a single speaker and back. No other speakers should be playing audio.

The large white text at the bottom of the screen tells you which speaker is currently being measured and what adjustments are being applied in real time.

As each individual speaker is being measured there will be small text next to the speaker name that says something like "Measuring" or "Calibrating". (can't remember)
OK One at a time

yes I added/modified the cal.txt file for my UMIK
level set to 100% in device properties
all channels unlinked
no channels muted
i am playing "timemeasurmentclick" file when I push start (then it mutes the audio itself)
all EQ and fade flat/center (only using front channels into the DSP 2 anyways)
for the audio level i used pink noise to get it green and in the center/upper range am I supposed to use the click instead? When i used the click i couldn't get a constant enough level for green as it keeps peaking and dropping
all speakers have red "x" marks in the screen
reference speaker is selected and measurement (distance) set
I only use analog and yes its selected
4.72a
how can i tell the firmware level and if its the latest? Doesn't it tell you automatically if it not the latest?

as soon as I hit start it seems to mute the audio ( I get no sound at all, no clicking, no static etc )
 

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OK One at a time

yes I added/modified the cal.txt file for my UMIK
level set to 100% in device properties
all channels unlinked
no channels muted
i am playing "timemeasurmentclick" file when I push start (then it mutes the audio itself)
all EQ and fade flat/center (only using front channels into the DSP 2 anyways)
for the audio level i used pink noise to get it green and in the center/upper range am I supposed to use the click instead? When i used the click i couldn't get a constant enough level for green as it keeps peaking and dropping
all speakers have red "x" marks in the screen
reference speaker is selected and measurement (distance) set
I only use analog and yes its selected
4.72a
how can i tell the firmware level and if its the latest? Doesn't it tell you automatically if it not the latest?

as soon as I hit start it seems to mute the audio ( I get no sound at all, no clicking, no static etc )

Doesn't it tell you automatically if it not the latest?


It does with my V Twelve DSP, but not sure about all devices.

for the audio level i used pink noise to get it green and in the center/upper range am I supposed to use the click instead?

Pink Noise? I only use "timemeasurmentclick" to set the input volume level to the highest green level and then click start. Try also disabling the laptop mic?

Also, maybe try a save, then a reset? 4.72a lets you import any previous parameters into each individual channel. You can pick and choose.

280736


Good Luck. :)
 

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OK So I "commandeered" a laptop from one of my techs and installed the software. Hooked up to the car started playing click file and even using the laptop's internal microphone it worked first time around. Didn't change any settings, just played the file, bar was in the green, push start and voila! It worked!. Looks like its either my laptop or the software installation. I'm gonna uninstall the ATF software completely and make sure there are no remaining components of it and re-install fresh. If that does not work I'll try my other laptop to see how it goes. Still have no idea about how to check or update the firmware though. Thank you for your instructions and patience!
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I had to do a reset to get everything to work correctly after updating to DSP PC-Tool v4.72a.
  • Did you add the UMIK-1 calibration data to the DSP cal.txt file and then restart the software? No other "cal2.txt" or "cal -Copy.txt" files should be in that folder.
  • Are you sure the UMIK-1 mic volume level is 100% in device properties?
  • Did you un-link any linked channels before starting?
  • Did you verify no channels are muted before starting?
  • Are you playing the file named "timeMeasurementClick"? (either .mp3 or .wav).
  • Did you remove any additional EQ and set Fade (0) from your source player and head unit?
  • Is your audio input level at the highest (green) level it can be before starting a measurement? I let it go red and back off slowly until it returns and stays at green again.
  • Are there red check marks next to all speakers before you start?
  • Did you select a reference speaker and input the correct distance? (in CM)
  • Is the correct input selected in the input selection section before you start?
  • What version of the DSP software are you using?
  • Is the firmware on your DSP.2 the latest version?
When measurement starts you should hear pops jumping from the reference speaker to a single speaker and back. No other speakers should be playing audio.

The large white text at the bottom of the screen tells you which speaker is currently being measured and what adjustments are being applied in real time.

As each individual speaker is being measured there will be small text next to the speaker name that says something like "Measuring" or "Calibrating". (can't remember)

Above info is great!.. just one more thing.... Remember to un-link all speakers in the Main Time Window. Each speaker has an option for X 1 2 3 4 5, be sure no speakers are selected in 'Delay Group', all speakers, including Subs should have the 'X' selected.
 
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Discussion Starter #36
OK So I "commandeered" a laptop from one of my techs and installed the software. Hooked up to the car started playing click file and even using the laptop's internal microphone it worked first time around. Didn't change any settings, just played the file, bar was in the green, push start and voila! It worked!. Looks like its either my laptop or the software installation. I'm gonna uninstall the ATF software completely and make sure there are no remaining components of it and re-install fresh. If that does not work I'll try my other laptop to see how it goes. Still have no idea about how to check or update the firmware though. Thank you for your instructions and patience!

Back when 4.70a came out, as it was the first version with ATM, I could not get it to work at all. I un-installed/re-installed the DSP_Tool software on my laptop, still did not work. I then wiped the drive on my laptop and re-install Widows 10 Operation system, and installed all other software. Then it worked first attempt and has worked fine since....
 
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An update and thanks. Uninstalled the software from my main laptop and deleted the install folder from the "program files x86" folder as well. Rebooted, installed software, inserted the modified cal.txt file for my microphone. Connected microphone and ensured level at 100%, tested the microphone using the windows "test" from within Windows settings. All good. Loaded up ATF software and started playing the click file from my phone, adjusted volume to upper middle of green bar range. After choosing the reference speaker and it's distance from mic. Ensured all "x's" were correct (no speaker linked or turned off etc). Hit start, and it worked without a hitch first time through! Even the subwoofer was picked up without issue. Applied the delay settings and going to go for a drive in a bit. Thank you!

Sent from my HD1905 using Tapatalk
 

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I went back to run another measurement to compare with my previous one. I ran 7 ATMs and each one failed on a different speaker. I kept playing with the volume level until I go a successful measurement.

Question, should the engine be off when running an ATM, for best results? My car engine produces a significant hum in my garage, but I don't want to drain my battery accidentally.

Also, I find the measurement values to be pretty close to my tape measured values. Although, I tend to reduce the measured distance on the Left and Right Front woofers by 20 inches because they sound a bit heavy.
 

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I always tune with a battery charger hooked up (engine off). God knows a 20 minute tweak always turns into 2-3 hours.. ;)
 
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