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Discussion Starter #1
So, I picked up a dsp.3. I'm using speaker level inputs ABCD. Outputs are AB-mids, CD-tw, EF-sub.

Set up all x'overs, everything appears to be correct. However, when I attempt to play music. I have to turn the volume up to 25 (usually that would make my ears bleed). I only get volume from the mids. No tweeter nor sub volume.

Amps are connected properly, gains set, I'm lost.

Obviously I'm not doing something properly in the helix software. As a side note the Audiocontrol dsp was much more user friendly. Wow!
 

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Can you post a screen shot of your I/o set up page from the software?
 

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Thanks, and so you have front L/R Rear L/r and subwoofer speaker leads from your HU going into the molex plug? I think i was expecting that you were only using the front left and right speaker leads, which is what most people do for front speakers and non fading subwoofers.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks, and so you have front L/R Rear L/r and subwoofer speaker leads from your HU going into the molex plug? I think i was expecting that you were only using the front left and right speaker leads, which is what most people do for front speakers and non fading subwoofers.
So, L/R is mids and L/R rear is my tweeters. One subwoofer output through Helix E/F

After disconnecting everything and re-connecting I now have sound through mids and tweets but no sub sound
 

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So, L/R is mids and L/R rear is my tweeters. One subwoofer output through Helix E/F

After disconnecting everything and re-connecting I now have sound through mids and tweets but no sub sound
any reason why you are using rear L/R rear for tweeters? If it were me i would Use front Left and right for both mids and tweeters.

You can also use front Left and Right for your sub too. But thats not solving your output issue.

I'm not trying to bandaid it...but for fun I would use front left and right for your Mids and tweeters. And rear left and right for your sub.

I use Front L& R for my Front 3 way, and subs and have no problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
OK, guess i didn't realize i could set it up that way. Done for the evening. Off tomorrow so will jump on it first thing.

Thanks for your assistance.
 

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This is more for your own knowledge, but can help anyone looking at the setup. If you double click on the far left side, every input can be renamed to what it is. That can help everyone understand which signal is going to which output channel. As it is whatever is plugged into inputs A&B is only going to the kids. Whats plugged into C&D is going to tweeters, and nothing is going to subwoofers since you said you were using ABCD.
 

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This is my setup now. I now have all speakers including subs playing at proper volume.

View attachment 274242
Thats very similar to how my P-Six is set up except i only have 1 I/O for my sub and i am using a Y cable out of the Helix into 2 inputs of my PPI amp.

Dobslob, i was told one of the only reasons to use more than the Front pair of high level inputs would be if you needed to sum channels. But if front L& R are full range there should be no need to use more.
 

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I'll agree. The fewer inputs you can use to get the desired results the better. Sometimes an extra pair of inputs is good to allow a sub level control from the source, but otherwise I typically just run stereo in.
 

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Another potential reason to use more than one stereo input is if the car factory head unit does special routing of various chimes or navigation. For example, Subaru (in some
models) uses the fronts only for navigation prompts and completely mutes the front channel when those prompts are playing. This is quite jarring to have all your music cutoff for “turn left!” The music keeps playing to the rear speakers so it’s not that jarring in an all factory setup, but when I tried using front only as my inputs with my helix this behavior was very strange/jarring.

I think some ford models send back up camera monitoring alerts to the back speakers only (as another example).


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Those are good reasons Mauian, if the signal is different in certain channels like that, just be sure that there are no delays or manipulation of the signal that will case it to make the end result worse.
 
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