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Hi, I'm looking for some experienced advice.

I'm swapping out my Bit One for a Helix DSP Pro MK2. My head unit is a Chinese crappo Eonon GA7150A because that's what fits in my e46. This unit puts out a claimed 2 volts on the RCA outputs.

My question is, should I open up the Helix and adjust the voltage inputs to maximize the potential output to the amplifiers in this situation or is it fine left alone? Browsing the manual and looking for answers online leaves me uncertain if I should do this using the head unit RCA outputs or if it is only required when using the high level output.

Thank you for any information you might be able to provide.
 

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Thank you for answering, I really appreciate the response. I will try that first but it won't inform me if I have a potential for some improvement by adjusting the DSP? I'd rather not crack it open and play with the system to find out. If someone has a more definitive answer, I'd appreciate more input.
 

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I am currently installing my Helix DSP Pro Mk2 as well. The owners manual says this MUST be done. I did mine and frankly it was so easy it was ridiculous and I dont see why anyone would not do it...now that I know what I know. This is my first DIY install of a DSP so if I can do it you can do it. It took me 5-7 minutes from the time I turned the first screw until I had the DSP buttoned back up. Super easy. For the cost of this gear, I am going to follow the mfr. directions to the letter, but that is just me. The fact that the DSP has a clipping indicator primarily for this facet of the install has to tell you something...
 

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Hi ARCuhTEK. Thanks for that reply. I agree with everything you said. I was just confused if it was to be done for an RCA connection or only for the high level input connection. The wording in the manual left me unsure. I'll go ahead and try to dial it in.

By the way, is that your current ride? If so how do you like it? I've been considering looking more into getting a similar era 6.
 

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Hi ARCuhTEK. Thanks for that reply. I agree with everything you said. I was just confused if it was to be done for an RCA connection or only for the high level input connection. The wording in the manual left me unsure. I'll go ahead and try to dial it in.

By the way, is that your current ride? If so how do you like it? I've been considering looking more into getting a similar era 6.
The manual, seems to read, that the pot controls inside the DSP control both light level and low level inputs. I do not have it in front of me at the moment, so please confirm via manual rather than me.

I love my M6...my favorite car ever. I have owned quite a few sports cars too. My Cayman S was my favorite up until this purchase. But that is not to be confused with other rides I would like to have..lol!! It is a beast of a car so I highly recommend it. If you go used, I highly recommend certified pre-owned. I was at the dealer last week and they wanted $530 PER HEAD LIGHT (parts only) to replace one head light with condensation in it in order to get the car to pas state inspection. They claimed both headlights had condensation. I repaired the situation myself the next day and it passed inspection. With parts and labor, I likely dodged a bill for $1200ish. Grrr...stealerships.

I am currently looking at a GT4 or a R8. Next on my list......vroom vroom
 

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The manual, seems to read, that the pot controls inside the DSP control both light level and low level inputs. I do not have it in front of me at the moment, so please confirm via manual rather than me.

I love my M6...my favorite car ever. I have owned quite a few sports cars too. My Cayman S was my favorite up until this purchase. But that is not to be confused with other rides I would like to have..lol!! It is a beast of a car so I highly recommend it. If you go used, I highly recommend certified pre-owned. I was at the dealer last week and they wanted $530 PER HEAD LIGHT (parts only) to replace one head light with condensation in it in order to get the car to pas state inspection. They claimed both headlights had condensation. I repaired the situation myself the next day and it passed inspection. With parts and labor, I likely dodged a bill for $1200ish. Grrr...stealerships.

I am currently looking at a GT4 or a R8. Next on my list......vroom vroom
The stealership wanted $700 for labor???
 

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Are you talking about the outside gain or the dials in the dsp? People have told me to just leave it as is. Are you using an ocillliscope?
 

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It is a simple process that will help one optimize every ounce of gain the DSP is capable of. It applies to the RCA’s as well as the Speaker level inputs.

Specifically for the DSP Pro mk2, the RCA adjustment range will be between 2-4 volts despite where the speaker level input jumper is set.

1. Don‘t connect any amplifiers to the outputs of the HELIX DSP PRO MK2 during this setup.

2. Turn on the signal processor.

3. Adjust the volume of your radio to approx. 90 % of the max. volume and playback an
1 kHz full scale test tone (0 dB) via CD drive.

4. The adjustment will be easier when you con- nect and adjust one input channel after the
other.

5. If the Clipping LED already lights up, you have to reduce the input sensitivity via the respective trim potentiometer until the LED turns off.

If the potentiometer is already set to full CW position it will be necessary to change the sensitivity range by repositioning the jumper (see figure 2 on page 19). Note that this will only have an effect on the highlevel inputs!

6. Increase the input sensitivity by turning the respective potentiometer counterclockwise until the LED lights up. Now turn the poten- tiometer clockwise until the Clipping LED turns off again.

7. Repeat this process for each channel you are using.
 

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I have a kind of side question but it is related to install... I was going to run digital but debated running 1-2 sets of rcas just in case. How many could i get away with from a amp pac 4? just fronts? or fronts and sub?
 
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