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Helix C-DSP
P-DSP

Differences?

full specs?

audiotech-fischer website doesnt have a ton of info listed, just enough to get me very interested
 

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My guy told me that the P-dsp is due here in a couple months! I really wanted the h800 or RF363 but after studying the manuals etc.... This seams to me to be the perfect unit (again, for me). Well that, and I LOVE brax/helix stuff ;)
Retails is going to be $599 which really makes it extra pretty IMO. I am sure that any dealers that look out for there regulars can get an even better deal. I know I will ;)
Also has toslink inputs and all the tweeking I could ever ask for. If I am the first one to get one, I will be sure to let everyone know my thoughts. I told my dealer the second they are available in the US I expect one in my truck :)
 

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The "C" version supposedly have some plus adjustments like a 1/24octave steps and Q adjustment 0.5-15 opposite to "P" version 1/12 octave steps and no Q andjustment.Plus 8Rca input and 8Hi input instead of 6+4.But the main difference should be the Twin power which is described as a two separate DSP processor in one unit as my german knowledge still serve a bit:)
 

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The "C" version supposedly have some plus adjustments like a 1/24octave steps and Q adjustment 0.5-15 opposite to "P" version 1/12 octave steps and no Q andjustment.Plus 8Rca input and 8Hi input instead of 6+4.But the main difference should be the Twin power which is described as a two separate DSP processor in one unit as my german knowledge still serve a bit:)
that's bad... ass!
 

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Thats funny, I just read a thread talking about those earlier and wondered what the deal was also.
 

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Helix | ceoutlook.com

From what I've gathered, the C-version has more tuning power: 1/24dB oct EQ instead of 1/12dB with a Q curve in 0.5 increment ranging from 0.5 to 15 instead of a fixed Q curve of 4.3
2 x 56-Bits DSP Chip instead of 1
Seems like the C-version is expandable too (hardware wise). Not much more info

P is for Precision line and C for the Competition line

Kelvin
 

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If you want it easy: The C-DSP is two P-DSPs in one. So 2 chipsets instead of one.
The second big thing is the chipsets in the D/A A/D transformation. As the C-DSP uses special japanese ones, you may get an idea why that unit is delayed. :(
And the signal to niose ratio is 114dB (instead of 107/112dB analog/digital).

As I am informed I will have my first touch with the C-DSP in about 2 weeks. It will be the exchange for the existing P-DSP.

So, to the P-DSP: I have never had a NEW DSP with so few problems. ;) (BTW: I am not paid nor am I an a Brax Team or whatsoever...I am not affiliated to ANY car audio producers/retailer/whatever - but earned my money in that business once)
The type of input/output selection is well known to me, even befor ethat unit as I was once inside a planning team for such a unit.
You may dawonload the software and check for yourself. Setup is very easy and up-to-date. No hassle or shizzle to have the first connection (like Alpine F1 or so). Plug and play at its best.
Then you select which input you want to use and what output shall use which input. Sounds nice BUT when doing so be sure to NOT have an amp connected- or even speakers. There will be bad noises, believe me.
When you come over to the Setup screen it is pretty easy to handle and mainly does what you want it to. If you want a -3.5dB dip with a Q of 1.2 at 635Hz-you´ll get it. And not a dip of -3dB or -4dB with a Q from 1-1.5 at 600 or 650Hz...
When you use the EQ the unit does not seem to have big stress with that (unlike a DRZ9255 for example). But I did not try to much with that, maybe once the C-DSP is there I will make a direct check. (As you can directly change settings from one to the other DSP from the same Software.)
I´d guess if you use the EQ pretty hard (as now only Pioneer can work with it-Alpine struggels with +5dB settings) the difference should show up.
The unit keeps the stored settings even when power is disconnected. But if you interchange (why ever you should) the unit and upload the setting you have on your PC to the DSP- again no amp should be connected.

One thing I dislike actually is that the Software forgets what you name the channels. Instead of
1 TW r
2 TW l
3 MID r
and so on, it will one day read the default again
1 FR l
2 FR r
and so on. But it is just the button that reads it. The settings will stay.
Ah and....when connecting RCAs...put the red in the white marked and the white in the red marked- this will make it easier later when setting the system up. ;)

The unit does not need excessive cooling (I like!) as well.

Sound is "Fischer like". Clean&direct.
That is my first overview...any questions by now?
 

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From what I've gathered, the C-version has more tuning power: 1/24dB oct EQ instead of 1/12dB with a Q curve in 0.5 increment ranging from 0.5 to 15 instead of a fixed Q curve of 4.3
That is not correct. You can change the Q in the same steps on both units.
The Homepage says the P-DSP can do from 4.3 to 15 but the unit does 0.5 to 15 aswell. (A Q with 4.3 as widest wouldn´t make to much sense anyway?!)
Only EQ-difference so far is 1/12 vs 1/24db per Octave setting. And I guess when stressed (means EQ used hard) the C-DSP can use its dual chipset better. But that is just guessing.
 

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That is not correct. You can change the Q in the same steps on both units.
The Homepage says the P-DSP can do from 4.3 to 15 but the unit does 0.5 to 15 aswell. (A Q with 4.3 as widest wouldn´t make to much sense anyway?!)
Only EQ-difference so far is 1/12 vs 1/24db per Octave setting. And I guess when stressed (means EQ used hard) the C-DSP can use its dual chipset better. But that is just guessing.
heh... I guess I read the manual wrong. :p

Thanks for the correction,
Kelvin
 
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