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What DVC sub are you running?

I'm wondering if I could set this amp to run a pair of Morel coaxes actively and a sub and am not understanding how the sub wiring would work based on what I see in the manual and/or what the Ohm/wattage parameters would be supported.

I've had a P Six installed upside down on the rear deck of a VW CC for around 14 months.

Load wise it was powering the front components actively and the remaining two channels paired through software and ran into a DVC sub.
 

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What DVC sub are you running?

I'm wondering if I could set this amp to run a pair of Morel coaxes actively and a sub and am not understanding how the sub wiring would work based on what I see in the manual and/or what the Ohm/wattage parameters would be supported.
I run mine exactly the way you want to with a DVC Hybrid Audio Clarus. Just wire each voice coil as if it was its own independent driver. Then map each voice coil to have L/R 50/50 in the I/O tab in the Helix.
 
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What DVC sub are you running?

I'm wondering if I could set this amp to run a pair of Morel coaxes actively and a sub and am not understanding how the sub wiring would work based on what I see in the manual and/or what the Ohm/wattage parameters would be supported.
Sorry for the late reply.

I use my P-Six with a German Maestro 3 sub 12 in a sealed enclosure of their recomendation.

It is a dual 2 ohm and fed from channels E+F on the Helix. The channels are locked together in the software and each channel is set to 50/50 left and right as mentioned above.

Ultimately I think the P-Six is slightly, dare I say it, weedy for the sub bass. It just doesn't seeem to create the presence that a stand alone sub amp of similar power can.

I've no idea if this is actually true or just me not setting the DSP correctly - but a few owners are reporting the same.
 

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Sorry for the late reply.

I use my P-Six with a German Maestro 3 sub 12 in a sealed enclosure of their recomendation.

It is a dual 2 ohm and fed from channels E+F on the Helix. The channels are locked together in the software and each channel is set to 50/50 left and right as mentioned above.

Ultimately I think the P-Six is slightly, dare I say it, weedy for the sub bass. It just doesn't seeem to create the presence that a stand alone sub amp of similar power can.

I've no idea if this is actually true or just me not setting the DSP correctly - but a few owners are reporting the same.
Serious question: what does weedy mean?

I know that for my set-up I had to boost the sub channel to get the bass I expected. A lot of people advise against this, but my view is that 1) It's a sub channel, so any minor distortion that may be introduced by boost isn't going to be a big deal, and 2) The people that engineered the DSP know a lot more about audio than 99.9% of the people online, and they designed the product to do this safely.
 

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Sorry for the late reply.

I use my P-Six with a German Maestro 3 sub 12 in a sealed enclosure of their recomendation.

It is a dual 2 ohm and fed from channels E+F on the Helix. The channels are locked together in the software and each channel is set to 50/50 left and right as mentioned above.

Ultimately I think the P-Six is slightly, dare I say it, weedy for the sub bass. It just doesn't seeem to create the presence that a stand alone sub amp of similar power can.

I've no idea if this is actually true or just me not setting the DSP correctly - but a few owners are reporting the same.
Could this be a damping issue? AF advertises only >100 as their df, however accurate that can be.

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Serious question: what does weedy mean?
Weedy, means a little thin and lacking in substance. No balls might be another expression :laugh:

Could this be a damping issue? AF advertises only >100 as their df, however accurate that can be.
Not sure really but I know they make a big thing about the damping factor being so high on the amp.

I'm on the verge of buying around say 500 or 600W into 4 ohms for a sub amp and just using the P six as signals into it. Seems a shame and detracts from the otherwise very good one box efficient system, but I like stronger sub bass.
 

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Weedy, means a little thin and lacking in substance. No balls might be another expression :laugh:



Not sure really but I know they make a big thing about the damping factor being so high on the amp.

I'm on the verge of buying around say 500 or 600W into 4 ohms for a sub amp and just using the P six as signals into it. Seems a shame and detracts from the otherwise very good one box efficient system, but I like stronger sub bass.
Thanks for the clarification. Now that I know what weedy means, I had the same exact issue. I would try boosting the entire sub range using the PEQ. This solved my problem. You may still be unhappy, but I am more than happy with what I ended up with.
 

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Yeh I did the same initially and ended up turning it back down as the sub then became over powering and like it was fighting with a cardboard box rather than deep and tunefull bass.

I'll have another play and tune when I get my new source installed - which is likely to be the same as yours in your sig !

Iphone X into HEC USB port on P Six.

I haven't got the phone or USB card yet, although it would be good if you could share your thoughts on the SQ and general usage? I take it you are using the camera kit and factory stereo bluetooth to control the music?

What do you do for volume control on the phone? I have a director and a URC 3 controller and think I'll go with the URC as the director is a pain to fit.
 

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Yeh I did the same initially and ended up turning it back down as the sub then became over powering and like it was fighting with a cardboard box rather than deep and tunefull bass.

I'll have another play and tune when I get my new source installed - which is likely to be the same as yours in your sig !

Iphone X into HEC USB port on P Six.

I haven't got the phone or USB card yet, although it would be good if you could share your thoughts on the SQ and general usage? I take it you are using the camera kit and factory stereo bluetooth to control the music?

What do you do for volume control on the phone? I have a director and a URC 3 controller and think I'll go with the URC as the director is a pain to fit.
I have the Director as well. I just turn the volume all the way up on the phone, and then use the Director for volume control. I do have the camera kit which works perfectly well, and charges the phone. My only complaint is the bulky nature of it (the camera kit), which really can't be avoided.

Quick question...the factory BT can control the music app on the phone? If that is what you mean, I didn't even know that, and that would be fantastic.

I have been using Siri or just changing music directly on the device when I am stopped. I was previously using the iPod to Pure i20 to optical. The sound was great, but the iPod wheel was getting finicky so I was worried I wouldn't have a source soon...that's the only reason I changed. It's also somewhat future-proof.

As far as SQ goes, it's to be determined. I honestly haven't played around with it much. But out of the gate it sounds somewhat different to me. I don't know if my mind is playing tricks on me, or if there are some settings in the phone I need to adjust. I've had little time to do side-by-side listening with the iPod (which is still installed), or to do some mic measurements. I'll follow up.

A couple of things to consider:

1) Out of the box the audio crackles. This is an issue with the iOS version the phone ships with. It has been fixed with later versions.

2) If you like magnetic mounts and wireless charging, prepare to be disappointed. I haven't found a place to put the magnet where the phone will stay mounted and/or wirelessly charge.

3) Using the GPS on the phone while playing music is either seamless or annoying depending on your viewpoint - but I think you can change the settings on the app to mute the GPS if you want to.

I am considering using my old iPhone 6s as a dedicated GPS unit, because screwing around with 20 opened apps while driving - even if you are doing it responsibly, i.e. stopped - is a little cumbersome.
 

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Sorry all, this is a bit of a distraction from the P Six direct content, but it is all relavent so hopefully ok with the other members on this post.

Quick question...the factory BT can control the music app on the phone? If that is what you mean, I didn't even know that, and that would be fantastic.
Yes, although I have not done it yet. The idea is that you connect the phone to the car via BT (at the same time it is conneted to the camera dock) and use the BT audio section on the stereo to move songs etc. Not sure how much control you actually have but on my car (Focus ST3 with Sync 2 and 8" screen) I think I'll be able to change tracks and see album detail.

I have been using Siri or just changing music directly on the device when I am stopped. I was previously using the iPod to Pure i20 to optical. The sound was great, but the iPod wheel was getting finicky so I was worried I wouldn't have a source soon...that's the only reason I changed. It's also somewhat future-proof.
I have an older ipod and was also thinking of getting the i20 s/hand to use into optical. Stil might have a play at that if I can get one cheap enough.

A couple of things to consider:

1) Out of the box the audio crackles. This is an issue with the iOS version the phone ships with. It has been fixed with later versions.

2) If you like magnetic mounts and wireless charging, prepare to be disappointed. I haven't found a place to put the magnet where the phone will stay mounted and/or wirelessly charge.

3) Using the GPS on the phone while playing music is either seamless or annoying depending on your viewpoint - but I think you can change the settings on the app to mute the GPS if you want to.

I am considering using my old iPhone 6s as a dedicated GPS unit, because screwing around with 20 opened apps while driving - even if you are doing it responsibly, i.e. stopped - is a little cumbersome.
1) A bit poor, but hopefully Apple will get it sorted.

2) Not bothered about that. My intention is to leave all the connectors hidden in a centre section of the car and just drop the phone into a modified cup holder. Then use the car stereo and URC/director to control the volume and tracks.

3) The car has Nav as standard so only need phone for music.

I am a bit annoyed with my factory system as a lot of fords can be reprogrammd by forscan to give a flat non eq'd output. My euro spec 2016 car can't be as yet :(

The alternative is to rip the lot out and buy a fascia kit and then something like a Kenwood double din with Apple Carplay, and use that into the helix via phonos.

Nice and easy to use but £££ start adding up and features dropping off, just for some good sounds.
 

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Sorry all, this is a bit of a distraction from the P Six direct content, but it is all relavent so hopefully ok with the other members on this post.


Yes, although I have not done it yet. The idea is that you connect the phone to the car via BT (at the same time it is conneted to the camera dock) and use the BT audio section on the stereo to move songs etc. Not sure how much control you actually have but on my car (Focus ST3 with Sync 2 and 8" screen) I think I'll be able to change tracks and see album detail.



I have an older ipod and was also thinking of getting the i20 s/hand to use into optical. Stil might have a play at that if I can get one cheap enough.



1) A bit poor, but hopefully Apple will get it sorted.

2) Not bothered about that. My intention is to leave all the connectors hidden in a centre section of the car and just drop the phone into a modified cup holder. Then use the car stereo and URC/director to control the volume and tracks.

3) The car has Nav as standard so only need phone for music.

I am a bit annoyed with my factory system as a lot of fords can be reprogrammd by forscan to give a flat non eq'd output. My euro spec 2016 car can't be as yet :(

The alternative is to rip the lot out and buy a fascia kit and then something like a Kenwood double din with Apple Carplay, and use that into the helix via phonos.

Nice and easy to use but £££ start adding up and features dropping off, just for some good sounds.
I'll have to try the BT and see if this works on my car tonight. And I agree...if Honda would have just made the damn HPF by-passable, I could have connected to speaker-level inputs only and had a totally seamless system, while saving over $1000 in extras.
 

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So whats the verdict regarding this piece powering a small subwoofer? I was thinking channels 1-4 being front active, and 5 and 6 running a small D2 ported sub.
 

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So whats the verdict regarding this piece powering a small subwoofer? I was thinking channels 1-4 being front active, and 5 and 6 running a small D2 ported sub.
I'm quite happy with it powering my 10" Hybrid Audio Clarus. And I like bass. I think it's plenty.
 

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I'm quite happy with it powering my 10" Hybrid Audio Clarus. And I like bass. I think it's plenty.
good to hear. I Have run 2 clarus 10's and i am sure a single clarus 10 would be great.
 

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Going back to the options for input into the P-Six, I now have an Iphone available and am considering the possibilities.

Factory deck into high level isn't staying as the SQ and factory EQ is poor.

I can either-
Stream via aptx from android phone into Psix. Have done this before but got annoyed with the phone dropping the volume every so often to 'protect my hearing' and it occasionally had a partial drop out of the music.

Buy the USB card and apple camera kit etc to get usb audio from Iphone into psix.

Buy aftermarket dash kit to give me double din, and use the wifes old Pioneer app radio 4 with car play for nav and ipod on the other usb for audio. This will come with steering wheel control and be by far the most ergonomic.

I have a Helix director and URC3 so controls are not a problem just don't really like the faff of all the extra controls over a standard easy to use stereo.

Basically, how much better is the USB audio than aptx, and how much better are either of them over an aftermarket deck going into the P six via low level phonos?
 

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i have the usb input card for my p6 and honestly just very rarely use it, as i also have a double din pioneer deck with usb connectivity to my iphone. convenience wins here for me with everything just being controlled by the head unit.

that said, there are times (usually when i'm just sitting in the vehicle listening to music...not driving...) that i will connect up to the usb hec straight into the p six. it's those time when i'll pull up some actual high resolution music on my phone to play...and yes, it's a better sounding source for when i'm wanting to hear the best possible sound.
 

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Thanks Ben. I am coming round to the fact that I've tried chasing the best SQ I coud get out of the components, and found I was annoyed with having to use the director to control the volume, and also taking the phone in and out of a cradle all the time.

This combined with the fact that it will cost the same for a USB card as it does the factory dash kit and I very rarely (never) just sit in the car and listen to music, means I should probably just go down aftermarket and be done with it.
 

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good to hear. I Have run 2 clarus 10's and i am sure a single clarus 10 would be great.
I believe BennyZ has a buddy with a P Six that is driving a 15" in IB. He also runs a pair of 10's if I recall.


I have been pretty happy with my P six.. It's not as powerful as my last setup with Zapco LX but to me it sounds just as nice and the volume is enough to be uncomfortable.

Helix Released the P TWO which looks identical in size compared to the P Six. The two ran together make for a nice 3way with sub. P TWO dishes out 490x2 and it feels about right. Drives my 10's pretty hard. Two pieces that are pretty small drive my whole system.. Pretty damn cool. I run a P Six with a JL XD600 in my other car.. I plan to keep these amps a very long time.
 

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Hello, i have some problem of my psix.
No voice, and then inconnect to my dsp application.
There notif
275449


anybody can help me?
 
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