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Discussion Starter #1
I am hoping for some help because I am stumped.

Here is the situation. 2013 E70/X5 with HiFi (676) system. Using the correct Technics harness for my vehicle, which bypasses the OEM amp. Helix is wired to the OEM bolts in the cargo area for power and ground. Helix is a V1 with the Bluetooth HEC installed.

When I plug the Helix into my laptop I hear the connection sound. Then I connect the Helix to the remote power wire from the harness, turn on vehicle and open the Helix DSP software. DSP is recognize by software and I press connect. Unit connects. Once I am in the software, the unit disconnects within approx. 10-15 seconds and will not reconnect.

If I close software, remove the USB, power down the helix and wait a bit, then repeat the steps described above, I get it to reconnect again, but after a few seconds it disconnects.

I have tried deleting and reloading the software several times. I have installed the USB drivers that come with the Helix software. Problem is consistent on two laptops.

Finally, the first time I connected I did a hard reset and got a message that the DSP needed to be updated and new software was installed. Since then I can't hard reset the DSP.

Any ideas?
 

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Where did you get turn on? I don’t think there’s a turn on wire at the factory amplifier it’s most bus, the cigarette lighter on the right side has accessory power, try using that to turn on the helix and see if that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The Technics harness has a remote wire. The HiFi system is all copper/analog not fiber.

The harness I am using was recommended by Musicar Northwest.

Tomorrow I will test and recheck power, remote and ground connection, make sure I have good connections and proper voltage. Have not tested them with multimeter yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
And Nick, no I have not tried a different cable. Will add that to the list after rechecking all the wiring.
 

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The reason I ask, even if remote input turns off on the helix, itll stay on if plugged in

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Today I tried a new USB cable and same results.

Tried tapping into another remote turn on wire in the cargo area. Same results.

Tried both remote wire taps directly to the sub amp, bypassing the Helix. Same results, in that it would power on play music for a few seconds then power off.
Quadruple checked the ground and power wires and all connections. Solid.

Broke out the multimeter and checked the battery. 12.46 volts with car off and 15 with car in. Checked the amp and Helix when car is running and got 14.XX volts.

So, at this point in seems the remote wire options, at least in the trunk, shut off after approximately 15 seconds or so after the car starts. I have never experienced this before.

?????
 

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Are you monitoring the status LED when it stops playing ? Is the amp actually shutting off ? Was the amp new or used when you initially installed it ? Have you tried removing the HEC card ?

Which positive terminal did you connect to ? I would also strongly suggest moving the ground to the grounding point by the battery not directly to the battery terminal- the IBS system tends to not like that much.
 

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Where did you get turn on? I don’t think there’s a turn on wire at the factory amplifier it’s most bus, the cigarette lighter on the right side has accessory power, try using that to turn on the helix and see if that helps.
No MOST at the amp for 676 but technically even 677,688,etc also all have a copper turn on available if needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
The ground is not at the battery. It is grounded at the same spot that the battery is grounded to. Same for power. Not directly at the amp, but at the bolt in the floor where the stock + wire goes to.

The lights on the Helix stay on when the Helix disconnects from the software. The Zapco (sub amp) green light goes out when it stops working.

I have not tried removing the Bluetooth HEC. But could that really be a problem if the sub amp is also experiencing a similiar issue (not staying on for more than 15 seconds)?

The Helix was purchased from a member here and is supposed to be new never used.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
A little research last night and I found several discussions on BMW sites that deal with low voltage on remote wire options in the vehicle. Each discussion was from older model years, and a PAC trunk LOC was suggested as a way to turn the low voltage line into a legit 12+ volt line.
 

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A little research last night and I found several discussions on BMW sites that deal with low voltage on remote wire options in the vehicle. Each discussion was from older model years, and a PAC trunk LOC was suggested as a way to turn the low voltage line into a legit 12+ volt line.
In the olden days we used to just wire in a Bosche 5v relay into the system when we needed more juice from the remote turn on lead for multiple amplifiers.
 

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The ground is not at the battery. It is grounded at the same spot that the battery is grounded to. Same for power. Not directly at the amp, but at the bolt in the floor where the stock + wire goes to.

The lights on the Helix stay on when the Helix disconnects from the software. The Zapco (sub amp) green light goes out when it stops working.

I have not tried removing the Bluetooth HEC. But could that really be a problem if the sub amp is also experiencing a similiar issue (not staying on for more than 15 seconds)?

The Helix was purchased from a member here and is supposed to be new never used.
Good on the ground then, go to the terminal on the battery for power. Measure both.

Just trying to eliminate possibilities, if the HEC is incorrectly inserted then yes, could cause problems.
 

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A little research last night and I found several discussions on BMW sites that deal with low voltage on remote wire options in the vehicle. Each discussion was from older model years, and a PAC trunk LOC was suggested as a way to turn the low voltage line into a legit 12+ volt line.
I've worked on a BMW or two and even own one, never saw a bad remote out though without something external causing it. A simple relay would do the same thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Quick update. Remote power is not an issue. Getting a full 13+ volts on the remote wire out of the Technics harness.

Took the car to a local shop, Kustom Kar Audio (same shop that built Gary Summers Mercedes). They took time with me going over my work and check voltage everywhere. We did not do any investigation on the Helix, but it would seem at this point that the sub amp, Zapco z150.2 AP is blown. BTW, anyone know Mad Scientist (Josh Blair). He has not been active here sense he sold me the amp and is not responding to email, PM and PayPal communications.

Part of the problem has been identified. Still no clue on the Helix disconnects issue. Will be removing the Bluetooth HEC this week and testing.
 

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Have you tried holding the "Control" button on the Helix for 6 seconds? This will erase the internal memory from the DSP. Then when you connect it should automatically update and everything should work fine from there. I highly doubt the HEC card will be the cause of an issue with the software.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
dobslob, yes. Infact, just reset it successfully again. Here is what I did:

With car running,

1. Connect Helix to laptop via USB
2. Connected remote wire to remote wire on harness powering on the Helix
3. Open software, did not click on the RED connect
4. Pressed and held the control/rest button for 6 seconds
5. Success in resetting and Software ran an update that was successful.
6. Enter software, then disconnect...5 out 5 attempt failed to reconnect
7. Software defaults to demo mode
 

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I had the EXACT same issue with a P Six Mk2. Tried everything that was suggested to me. Sent the unit back to the dealer and even they couldn't get it to work. They ended up sending it back to Audiotec Fischer and sent me a new unit. You might have to do the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Dirtboy, this is good news! Now we're getting somewhere.
 
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