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Discussion Starter #1
2002 Tundra
Done:
Kenwood DMX 706s head unit
Rockford fosgate 6.5 components up front P165SI and 6.5 coax in the rear P165
Sound Damping on floor boards, rear, in front and rear doors. Way over did it.

Need:
Lower octaves
So I am looking to add a 5 channel amp and two 8 inch subs that will fit in this box:

I'd like to spend about $1000 for the enclosure, subs, amp, and wiring. Unless that is simply impossible. I
can spend more but hope that this can pull the system all together for me and get me like 80% of the way. It has good upper vocal range,
the highs need to be toned down, but there is no lower end at all.

PS: This site has already taught me alot, esp. about CCF and MLV, which will come down the road. Like I said, I over did the damping but hey we all make mitakes.
Possibly add something to the headliner as well.

I'd like an amp + subs that will play well with what I have. I will be wiring it up myself.

Thanks!

272238




272239
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well I went with a kenwood 8 inch powered sub under the passenger seat. Cheap and not bass booming but much less money than that box plus amp.
Thoughts?
It does a good job bringing in some low end. Mid bass gets a little muddled and the lowest stuff is not there but again cheap.

I decided to go ahead and add in cc’d and mlv. I am curious if nothing else. And I can modify the components in the future. I wanna see what quiet sounds like in this truck...
 

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My thoughts are always that if you like it, it works.

Powered subs won't bring a lot of umpf, but they do fill out the bottom a little, but typically they're not recommended because of the cost to performance is just not there.

As far as more midbass, a solid baffle, that is decoupled from a deadened and sealed door is the start. Xover point with the sub and getting the MB in phase with some time alignment will do a lot to help, then getting the sub in phase with those so it blends and doesn't drag the sound backwards.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks a lot for the help. I am considering in the future a 5 channel amp an subs for that box. I like the box as it fits in a spare spot under the rear seat. If I was to have say $800 could that be accomplished? I am putting a lot of work into acoustic isolation and could sell the powered sub in the future. Right now I am onto suspension work.
 

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Alpine Type R 8 work in that size, according to the specs they just barely fit, and they run about 150 each new.

Polk d5000.5 is a reliable 5 channel with a small footprint. Like 4x70 @ 4 ohm and 1x500 @ 1 ohm. They go for about 250 new still.

That's about 550, add the 250 for the box and you're at 800 with power for your components. Still have to have to spend another 100 or so on wire, fuses and such.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank a bunch. The $$ is about what I figured. I want to get the cabin as quiet as possible ccf and mlv process starts tomorrow. Down the road I’ll go for the 5 channel amp and subs. I think that will take the sound to another level. I’m enjoying actually the sound isolation process as I get to see how each piece affects the overall quality.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
After the amp and subs, what would be after that? I thought that is it but I am reading on here about sound processors etc. ?
 

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Yeah chase down all those rattles, dampen all those flat surfaces and block as much road noise as possible.

DSP is a great addition, even the cheaper unit like the Dayton DSP-408 can give you so much more control over your sound. And they run 150 new.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks so much for the help. One last thought. I just bought the powered sub and can take it back for nearly $300!returned. I’m starting to think this will be better in the long run. So I’m contemplating wiring up the 5 channel amp. I did the head unit, sub, rear camera so it should be doable but when I put in the HU, I needed a special scosche harness as my truck came with a factory amp. The speaker wires (rca) as of now leave HU go to the harness and into the factory amp, it seems. So I guess I pull the signal to go to the amp before it hits the factory amp? Which has me wondering: is the factory amp now powering the speakers? Seems dumb as the HU amp is likely better being some two decades more recent. Make sense?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Shoot, I realize another issue and you are helping me a bunch. How can I buy you a beer? :)
I have been chasing a ground loop I think: right front tweeter buzzes, no other speaker, constant frequency and volume. But it only happens when I flick the switch to turn on my dash lights at night. Just headlights= no buzz. But dash lights and there it is. Now how to fix??
 

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For the 8" subs I'd recommend the Image Dynamics IDQ8. Comes either dual 4 or dual 2 ohm. Arc Audio also makes a nice 8" and priced about the same as the ID. It'll blow the budget but make installation cleaner and easier but there are 5 channel amps with built in DSP... something like this


There are others too. Do a little homework and re-evaluate your budget and go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah, my thinking has changed alot since the initial post as I have put in that powered sub and then taken a road trip and realized that it does fill in bass but it is not super clean and the vocals are flat. I am putting in about $500 worth of acoustic isolation materials with about 35 (?) hours of work there, so putting in a system that is more than just adequate is due. I am bumping up the budget for the amp, sub, and box. I am hoping that the amp really adds to the vocals as well.

I'll take a look at the amp above later...

And THANK YOU!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Okay, just bought the Q logic box as it fits right in no problem. Looking into what subs and amp.
 

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Discussion Starter #15

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How about this amp:
Powering those Alpine8 inch subs. I can wire those in parallel to get the impedance to 1 Ohm.
That amp is not 1 ohm stable. If using 2 DVC subs each vc needs to be 2 ohm. You’ll series each vc and parallel each sub. How much are the alpines?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yeah, and I am god damn impatient! When will I learn. Sorry guys. Partly that I am pulling out the full interior (again) tomorrow to add in the CCF and MLV and I'd like to get the amp wired up when this is all pulled apart.

I think that this setup with the Q logic should be noticeably better than the Kenwood HU (22 W rms) powering the speakers and the 8 inch powered kenwood sub. Please say yes!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I also got an amp wiring kit, one of those "9 in 1" wiring jobs as it seems like a nice way to run the speaker wire back to the rear of the HU. The kit comes with one pair of RCA, but my HU has RCA out for the front, rear, and sub (both channels). So I think I need two more pairs of RCA, yes?
 
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