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Discussion Starter #1
So I have an audio system in my truck that has managed to snowball from a simple bluetooth deck and factory sub replacement to something completely different and I have managed to get off track with the design and application. I found this site and here I am... asking for help.

Truck: 2008 F150 crew cab
Deck: Sony XAV 62BT
Amp 1: JBL GTO1004 4 channel
Amp 2: JBL GTO7001 mono block
Processor: Audiocontrol DQXS
Wiring: 3 RCA from head unit to rear wall, 0ga from battery to rear wall, asst. fused distro blocks on rear wall powering everything

Skip the following if you get bored easily

This started with me getting a Bluetooth enabled head unit for Christmas (cell phone driving laws took effect on Jan 1). After installing the deck, the factory sub didn't work properly (sound quality was poor anyhow) so I picked up the GTO1004, an atomic 8" sub to replace the factory sub, and a pair of Eclipse 6x8 components. While installing, I was displeased with the sound from the Atomic sub in the modified factory box and was talked into buying a GTO7001 and a second set of the Eclipse's by a buddy since boxing day sales were still in effect.

Lets not get into the DQXS... just to say that I now also own a DQXS and no longer have any Christmas money left over.

As it stands I am not displeased with my purchases (I have spent less than $800 of my own money so far, thank you boxing day sales), only with the scale of whats happened with no clear end in sight.

For those who skipped, start here


I am looking for suggestions on how to finish the system, the 1004 is wired for the front and rear speakers, the 7001 is sitting idle and the DQXS is between the amps and the head unit.

The sound from the speakers mounted in the factory locations is OK even with the dampening however, I would like to try and move the sound stage up, possibly with a third amp (JBL GTO752 is on for $99 right now) and a set of components or mid bass in the kick panels. Any other suggestions regarding this would be appreciated.

I also need suggestions on subwoofers. My music tastes are quite varied, ranging from classical orchestra to drum and bass... but mostly hard rock with tight kicking base.

I have the space for two 10" subs if I don't install a third amp or one if I install another amp and mid bass speakers in the front kicks. The only downside to the sub box is my limited mounting depth for the subwoofers... 5 1/8 - 5 7/8 according to the bassworx site for their vehicle specific box. I am in trades and can build my own box but I can't see any way to make the box deeper unless I raise the seats. I can raise the seats since no one ever sits back there, only the dogs, however, I'm not sure if this will affect my insurance, I would rather not remove the seat and build a custom bench/sub box.


Budget for the box is $200 in materials
Budget for the sub or subs is around $500
Budget for the components or mid bass is $400
Budget for the third amp is $99

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #2
So after researching options last night, I think I have narrowed the subwoofer options to either one JL 13TW5 or a pair of ARC 10's. The advantage to the one 13TW5 is that I can still have the space on the passenger rear for another amp if I wish to go down that route, the advantage to the ARC's is that from what I can gather, the sound will be clearer since the subs wont be driven as hard to produce the same amount of bass
 

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The JL sub is expensive, but I hear it's one of the best shallow mounts ever. For your soundstage raising up, a set of components would most definitely help, as you can mount the tweeters up high on the doors or pillars.

And, what came to my mind for the third amp situation (considering you have the Audiocontrol to go active if you want) is if you were to grab another JBL GTO1004, you could bridge one of them to the mids for lots of power, and run channels 1 & 2 on the other one to the tweeters, and channels 3 & 4 to the rear fill speakers.

That would be a sick system.
 

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i would personally go with the dayton hf 10. 5" mounting depth, they want a 1 cubic foot box each(no idea how much cubic feet u can get)

if u want rear speakers i would say use head unit power, so u can run 2 10" subs. plus that gives you $100 extra for whatever, install or components
 
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