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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

I recently bought some used W800Neo to fit in the front doors of my Model 3. The factory speakers are about 8", but have shallow depth and small magnet. I made some mounts, but looks like the basket it so wide on the W800Neo that it hits the door metal. Any good way to deal with this? Cutting the door isn't an option since it's the mount for the window track.

I'm thinking I could either:
Shave the ridges off the speaker basket to fit
Make a way deeper mount, but then I may have door car fitment issues
Look for another driver.

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07 Accord GS9-Arc Audio dsp-Audison Voce 5.1K+Due-HAT Legatia SE 3 way + Clarus 15 in IB
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Dibs if they won't fit!
 

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Well shaving the ridges off help? There are very little choices if you have that little amount in depth I think the driver you have is definitely the best choice… If you could fit Dynaudio and MW172 that’s a killer driver also…

Put a lot of blue masking tape all over any holes that go to the voice coil and you could grind the speaker basket as long as you don’t make it structurally unsound you just want to keep aluminum shavings from getting inside the coil… They are not magnetic but you want to keep debris out of there and also make sure there’s not sparks hitting the cone.

it may sound barbaric but that’s what I would do since you can’t cut the door. If you can cut the door that would be my first choice but remember if you cut up then the driver might not even line up with the hole on your door panel anymore so you need to keep it centered.
 

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i know at least one other person w/ 1st gen w800neos in their model-3 doors. (2nd gen has revised speaker terminals, maybe other changes too)

looks like you need about an inch more (requisite penis joke ;) )

with the doorcard in place, you should be able to use a narrow drill bit or something (as a depth gauge) through the speaker grill to see how much space you have behind the door panel.

in a few places around the speaker, poke the back side of the drill bit through the hole until it bottoms on the factory speaker flange. mark it with tape or something, pull it back out. note the depth. then subtract the thickness of the speaker grill plastic. then you can make a spacer up to that height without having to modify the door panel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm not going to lie, if you can afford a Tesla you need to take that to a shop. it would take them less than an hour to mount, wire and have the door cards on and you running down the road.
This always cracks me up. If I had asked this about my Toyota Sienna I wouldn’t have gotten the same response, and it was 5K new more. Everyone always assumes Teslas are big money when most people spend just as much on a new SUV, sedan or truck. Mine is the SR+ which is under 40K new.
I could afford it, but I like DIY and to learn!
 

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I'm not going to lie, if you can afford a Tesla you need to take that to a shop. it would take them less than an hour to mount, wire and have the door cards on and you running down the road.
The Model 3 is the "cheap" Tesla.
 

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This always cracks me up. If I had asked this about my Toyota Sienna I wouldn’t have gotten the same response, and it was 5K new more. Everyone always assumes Teslas are big money when most people spend just as much on a new SUV, sedan or truck. Mine is the SR+ which is under 40K new.
I could afford it, but I like DIY and to learn!
Good for you, i agree on the diy/learning aspect.

I’ve poked around through the grill with a paper clip before to check depth, obviously don’t go stabbing away but see if you can make up what you need on that side.

I saw a post awhile back maybe from jimmydee were he cut the unnecessarily long binding post down and soldered straight to the terminals. I doubt this is the issue you’re having though.
 

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I would see how much depth you can get first. See if you have enough room to build a thicker baffle without hitting the door card. If thats not an option, you could look to see how much materially you could take off the top of the hole. Shifting enough to clear the window mount bracket thing you can't cut.
 

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I'm not going to lie, if you can afford a Tesla you need to take that to a shop. it would take them less than an hour to mount, wire and have the door cards on and you running down the road.
Shop owner who has worked on teslas here... no it wouldn't. Hours
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well, after a tiny basket shaving, and door panel cutting and lots of mount changes, it works! The moral of the story is that these are very shallow speakers but the wide basket makes them more challenging in installs like this.
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But the only thing that matters is how do they sound?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
But the only thing that matters is how do they sound?
So far I just have the left one in as I need to print the other mount and start modifying the door etc, but just dropped in without tuning or dropping the crossovers below 70 it sounds awesome, it’s the midbass I wanted for the EDM I listen to.
 

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I know its very close to the door panel.. but you still may want to use a very thin piece of fast ring on the front.. so its sealed up against the door panel.. i know it is debatable if it helps that close but in my experience i skipped it once and i will never skip it again.. even though my speaker was only half an inch from hitting the door panel it helped the sound greatly... just gotta be very sure you do not smash the foam over on top of the surround..


Either way it should sound great, im glad you were able to make it fit.. there is nothing more devastating in car audio than when you get all hyped up about a driver only to find out it hits the window or something and doesn't work.. LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
That's not bad at all. Good job buddy. I can't wait to hear what you think of the sound. I'm strongly considering these speakers. I wonder if there's a difference in specs between the Neo and regular ferret magnet version.

What mid and tweet are you going to run with these? What's the rest of your system going to be?
Currently the rest of the system is:

AudioFrog GB10oe tweets
AudioFrog GB25 mids
AD W800neo midbass
Helix V-Eight MK2 for front stage/rear
SI SQL-12 sub
Helix M One for sub (soon to swap in DAmore E1000.1)
 
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