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Discussion Starter #1
Thanks in advance....

Right now I have 2 polk mono 10's running off an Mtx mxa6001 amp.

I blew one of the 10s cranking it too loud...

I want to upgrade to 12s to try and get more power and bass as the 10s just didn't hit hars or low enough from me.

Is it possible to upgrade to 2 12's while running the same amp or do I need to get another amp ? I'm not majorly adept with car audio stuff as far as specs and sub/amp matching. I installed it myself and am using a cap. I think its a 2 f cap. Forgot to be honest but don't have any issues with summing lights.

I have a Nissan frontier kingcab xe 2004. So don't have an overwhelming amount of room but plan on building a custom enclosure.

Any help or suggestions would be awesome! My budget isn't crazy but just trying to see what options will work so i can budget. I may go the bestbuy route so I can get their service thing so if I blow anything up I can get replacements.


Thank you for your time!!!


Sent from the inner workings of my mind. EVO4G on Mik2.xx with tapatalk
 

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Ooof. Where to start?

You can run the same amplifier on different subs.

Subs fail for two main reasons.

Thermal overload. That voice coil is just a space heater. The more power applied, the warmer it gets. Now the speaker motor is a pretty good heat sink and will for a time absorb the heat. Eventially though, no matter speaker there is a power amount that will destroy it.

Mechanical stress. Due to whatever the reason, no subsonic and to much signal played below tuning feq of a port where the woofer unloads, to much boost that causes the woofer to hit Xmech and beyond, cone damage etc. It breaks the speaker somehow.


Determine what happened to your 10's might help you prolong the life of your next subs.


Now...

You want more.

Seriously look into the enclosure design of your next box. THAT determines the response of your subs. More than brand. More than size more than model.

Luckily due to the laws of physics, bigger subs tend to be louder. More cone area, all other things equal.

If Bestbuy is your choice, I think they sell Alpine Type R subs. A very decent sub. Good engineering, decent box requirements good output. Prolly one of the best choices out of BB.

Your amp puts out what 600 watts? a good match for the new subs.

OR

determine if the other 10 is ok. Get a replacement 10 and get a new redisigned enclosure. Go ported. Use subsonic filter to keep the woofers from unloading below tuning and enjoy your "new" sound while not spending as much money.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ooof. Where to start?

You can run the same amplifier on different subs.

Subs fail for two main reasons.

Thermal overload. That voice coil is just a space heater. The more power applied, the warmer it gets. Now the speaker motor is a pretty good heat sink and will for a time absorb the heat. Eventially though, no matter speaker there is a power amount that will destroy it.

Mechanical stress. Due to whatever the reason, no subsonic and to much signal played below tuning feq of a port where the woofer unloads, to much boost that causes the woofer to hit Xmech and beyond, cone damage etc. It breaks the speaker somehow.


Determine what happened to your 10's might help you prolong the life of your next subs.


Now...

You want more.

Seriously look into the enclosure design of your next box. THAT determines the response of your subs. More than brand. More than size more than model.

Luckily due to the laws of physics, bigger subs tend to be louder. More cone area, all other things equal.

If Bestbuy is your choice, I think they sell Alpine Type R subs. A very decent sub. Good engineering, decent box requirements good output. Prolly one of the best choices out of BB.

Your amp puts out what 600 watts? a good match for the new subs.

OR

determine if the other 10 is ok. Get a replacement 10 and get a new redisigned enclosure. Go ported. Use subsonic filter to keep the woofers from unloading below tuning and enjoy your "new" sound while not spending as much money.:)

Thanks for your input! So how would one go about troubleshooting to figure out why the sub failed? I dont even know where to begin with that, but I would assume it was from me putting the volume up WAY too much trying to get louder sound out of it... probably could be me losing hearing and thinking its not as loud too lol...

I am 98% sure the sub is blown though its doing that fubar sound and im pretty sure its not the panels in my truck vibrating...

okay im going to look into the alpine type R's

sounds good...

The other 10 is okay but I think I like the lower sound of the 12s, they hit much lower notes that I feel the tens just dont do... i could be wrong though, maybe a new 10 and a newly designed enclosure is the way to go as you suggested... in terms of low budget you are def. speaking my language lol....
 

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Thanks for your input! So how would one go about troubleshooting to figure out why the sub failed? I dont even know where to begin with that, but I would assume it was from me putting the volume up WAY too much trying to get louder sound out of it... probably could be me losing hearing and thinking its not as loud too lol...

I am 98% sure the sub is blown though its doing that fubar sound and im pretty sure its not the panels in my truck vibrating...

okay im going to look into the alpine type R's

sounds good...

The other 10 is okay but I think I like the lower sound of the 12s, they hit much lower notes that I feel the tens just dont do... i could be wrong though, maybe a new 10 and a newly designed enclosure is the way to go as you suggested... in terms of low budget you are def. speaking my language lol....
So your "blown" sub is playing? Just sounds bad? does pushing on the sub cone produce a scratchy noise? Like rubbing?

What are your musical tastes? Be honest no judgement from me. I think I know your listening levels... Loud!!:D

Your truck is a 4 door? Sorry I get the whole crew/king/extra cab stuff mixed up:blush:

Either way, however you proceed, I suggest, ported tuned in the 30 hertz range( 30-35) this will not in most likelyhood be seen as a SQ set up but it will get loud and deep (I think people have termed it SQL). Side firing ports (they are pointed at the cab corners (see example)) to maximize output etc...

Are you using an aftermarket head unit? or running off the factory head?

Do you have the bass boost maxxed out? Bass boost is a bad thing. You are asking the amp to work that much harder and depending on your enclosure asking the sub to move that much extra. AND if you have the bass boost on the amp going Plus the head unit tone control, loudness and whatever else it has.... The end result is something breaking. Amp or sub.
 

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This link is worth checking out: Gain Settings Before you "upgrade" to other subwoofers make sure that you can use them in your vehicle with the proper enclosure. A properly built enclosure for your 10"s has more potential on sounding better than some 12"s that arn't in a properly built enclosure. As far as 12"s the SA-12 seems to be on sale at the moment and has caught my attention so it might be worth the money for your application. http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...t-comparisons/61735-sundown-sa-12-review.html
EDIT: Not sure if you understand the whole ohm's law deal, but make sure that you are able to wire your woofer to be compatible with your amp.
 

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This link is worth checking out: Gain Settings Before you "upgrade" to other subwoofers make sure that you can use them in your vehicle with the proper enclosure. A properly built enclosure for your 10"s has more potential on sounding better than some 12"s that arn't in a properly built enclosure. As far as 12"s the SA-12 seems to be on sale at the moment and has caught my attention so it might be worth the money for your application. http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...t-comparisons/61735-sundown-sa-12-review.html
EDIT: Not sure if you understand the whole ohm's law deal, but make sure that you are able to wire your woofer to be compatible with your amp.
Truth.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So your "blown" sub is playing? Just sounds bad? does pushing on the sub cone produce a scratchy noise? Like rubbing?

What are your musical tastes? Be honest no judgement from me. I think I know your listening levels... Loud!!:D

Your truck is a 4 door? Sorry I get the whole crew/king/extra cab stuff mixed up:blush:

Either way, however you proceed, I suggest, ported tuned in the 30 hertz range( 30-35) this will not in most likelyhood be seen as a SQ set up but it will get loud and deep (I think people have termed it SQL). Side firing ports (they are pointed at the cab corners (see example)) to maximize output etc...

Are you using an aftermarket head unit? or running off the factory head?

Do you have the bass boost maxxed out? Bass boost is a bad thing. You are asking the amp to work that much harder and depending on your enclosure asking the sub to move that much extra. AND if you have the bass boost on the amp going Plus the head unit tone control, loudness and whatever else it has.... The end result is something breaking. Amp or sub.
ive blown subs before, and this wasnt like in the past, so I upon reading your post i did some more thorough inspection, it appears that the sub itself is not blown, i push on it and no air coming out anywhere from tears, no rubbing sounds, nada... all is normal... now the box when i hit it to the right of the woofer that is making noise, i hear a slight vibration...sooooo. i now think its coming from the BOX! i must have shook screws loose or something, its the box i bought it with and appears to be custom (abeit crappy) made... i put as much pressure like a vice grip with my hands as i could on either side where i detected the vibration and it went back to clear, crisp thumping base... so i guess the box is FUBAR! which i guess is better than i could have hoped for...

For music tastes i basically listen to strictly dancehall (hardcore reggae), reggae, rap, etc... very RARELY will throw on some metallica or hard rock stuff ( like on the way to the gym... so i guess not so rarely, but thats the only time i listen to that stuff... to get pumped up and stuff lol)...

as far as type of truck , its a 2 door with the extended cab (not extra door style, but it has one of those fold down jump seats, I removed most of the panels to be able to fit my current woofer enclosure in there...

head unit is a clarion cz109... specs are in this link (ps wont let me add links) but if you go to clarions website and erase up to the .com and just add the rest of this, itll take you to the page... or google search it.../us/en/products/2009/audio/source_units/cd/CZ109/us-en-product-pf_1172409026852.html

I dont believe i have bass boost on, my older bro tried to tune the amp but he tuned it more for his tastes than mine (hes more into the metallica stuff)... no bass boost, as I agree with you that it screws things up...

I am kind of unsure as to how to tune this particular amp, or build a tuned enclosure, Im okay with woodworking, just dont know how to build to the specs for this sub and stuff so any help/advice in that area is muuuuch appreciated!

thank you all for your input, so i guess now Im going to focus on a better enclosure if this sub really isnt blown, which it doesnt appear to be... sub still plays, voicecoils work etc... no burning or plastic melting smells or anything ...

keep the input coming I really need the help and I want to get this system to perform to its optimal function now that I know i dont need to go out and spend a few hundred bucks on new subs and amp...

oh and ps... i have everything wired with 4gauge wire (i was thinking of adding an amp in the future, even if i dont i like to have bigger wire just in case...)

soooooo.......???
 

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Discussion Starter #8
This link is worth checking out: ]Gain Settings[/url] Before you "upgrade" to other subwoofers make sure that you can use them in your vehicle with the proper enclosure. A properly built enclosure for your 10"s has more potential on sounding better than some 12"s that arn't in a properly built enclosure. As far as 12"s the SA-12 seems to be on sale at the moment and has caught my attention so it might be worth the money for your application.review.html[/url]
EDIT: Not sure if you understand the whole ohm's law deal, but make sure that you are able to wire your woofer to be compatible with your amp.
thanks for the links! I am going to check it out... i am not sure how its wired right now, there is one speaker terminal hookup on the rear of the enclosure, Id have to take a pic of the amp setup, i used to know all this stuff but havent done anything since i was like 17 ... i believe theyre wired in parallel and bridged? could be wrong?

there are two speaker hookups running off the sub, i have the positive from one side (with negative on that side empty) then the negative on the other side (with the positive empty)... so i guess thats bridged?
 

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Well with your musical tastes, look for tuning around 30-35 hertz. Gets into the 20's and your particular flavor of music should pound pretty loudly.

Sounds like your box is coming apart. Funny. It happens. glue joint not good or something.

Have wood working skills? access to tools?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
yeah i have the means and tools for woodworking... i just made my own longboard... coming together nicely...

 

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If you can design and build boards like that then a sub box should be pretty damn easy for you.
So thats polk momo's? If so i'll post up some box specs and we'll see if you can fit them in your truck.
 

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To go ported your going to need about three and a half feet worth of internal space with a tuning of like 31 to get a good flat response and not sound really boomy.
So....... how much space we got?
 

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Thanks for the compliments on the board! Yeah that thing took a loooooong time.. started out as 2 10ft planks of cedar, after about 30 hours thats what they have become lol... still need fiberglass... but it got my woodworking point across (*ps this is my first board so im still no expert... but i can handle a sub box lol)

I have to check tomorrow to see if I have single or dual voice coil subs, I wasnt aware that mm2104 had 2 models of 10s, i have to unscrew everything etc.. too dark to do it now,

the space i have to work with is about 52"wide, by 10.5 (maybe another inch or two) deep, by 22"high

I have a 04 nissan frontier kingcab xe, its the 2 door one with the extended cab, no one sits in back even though there is a foldable jump seat in side panel, i removed most of rear paneling to prevent vibrations...

any and all help or sub plans are appreciated...


EDIT and yes those are polk momo mm2104s, but like i said above i gotta check to see if theyre single or dual voice coil...
 

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update, okay im impatient and didnt wanna wait til tomorrow to pull them out to see if it was svc or dvc... i have no idea still even after pulling them out... there was no model number or any other distinguishing stuff on it... how do you know if its the dvc version or svx?

I pulled the serial (i think) off one of them:

AA210405177... other than that... no additional info?

I really appreciate any and all help though!!!
 

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update, okay im impatient and didnt wanna wait til tomorrow to pull them out to see if it was svc or dvc... i have no idea still even after pulling them out... there was no model number or any other distinguishing stuff on it... how do you know if its the dvc version or svx?

I pulled the serial (i think) off one of them:

AA210405177... other than that... no additional info?

I really appreciate any and all help though!!!

if you grab a Digital multi meter and set it on "ohm's" you'll be able to tell. as far as it being SVC or DVC well, SVC will have a Pos and Neg terminal and DVC will have two POs terminals and two Neg terminals on the subwoofer.
 
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