DiyMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum banner

1 - 20 of 156 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
424 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I purchased a set of Focal 165KRX2's & a Zapco C2k 2.5X from a user on here. Now I need to make sure I get it setup correctly, so I have a few questions.

- Should I be using a capacitor with a 400W amplifier? (being installed in a 1988 truck)


- Does it matter where in the flow path the fuse is mounted? (closer or farther from the amp)


- Should I upgrade my stock battery ground(s)? There is a pigtail that comes off the battery and is bolted directly to the inside of the fender, is this what supplies ground to the chassis because it would be a huge bottleneck at 8-10 gauge! (I will be using 1/0-gauge amp wire)


- Where should I mount my tweets? I have been playing with two locations, I see many people use their door panels (see circle in photo). However from sound reinforcement gigs I was always taught that for best performance use tweeters slightly above ear level, like on the rear column panel above the seat belt pivot point (see circle in photo). On the downside I will not have as good highs with my doors open if I am listening outside the truck:



- This is where I want to mount my amplifier, cross-overs, capacitor and fuse (if the fuse does not have to be under the hood close to the battery). However the rear cab walls aren't THAT thick, so I can't use long bolts. I guess the best I can do is use the widest bolts I can?



- I need to run my amp wire through my firewall somehow, I found this unused grommet next to my steering column I can puncture a hole through:



On the inside you can see it to the left of the column (inside the circle), I planned on running the 1/0-gauge wire through and to the center of the dash. Then bundled with the RCA cable directly down the center of the cab to the rear:


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
274 Posts
-I would not use the capacitor
-You want the fuse as close as possible to the battery.
-Upgrade the factory grounds to 1/0 since that is what you will be running.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
403 Posts
Also you want some separation between the power wire and the RCA's - it is not recommended to run them together.

x2 you do not need a cap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
424 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Also you want some separation between the power wire and the RCA's - it is not recommended to run them together.
Interference? I will be using HQ cables with thick shielding; Knukonceptz eKs RCA Kable & Kolossus Fleks Power Kable. How far apart should they be are we talking inches or feet?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
It's usually easiest to just run them on opposite sides of the vehicle.

As long as they're not touching you should be fine, give yourself a few inches to be safe.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
403 Posts
I have always ran then on different sides of the car myself, however I heard that 6 inches apart is a safe distance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
424 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
It's usually easiest to just run them on opposite sides of the vehicle.
Only reason I am doing it this way is because it is a matter of a $50 6.5ft RCA cable becoming a $100+ double the length cable, also I don't want to stress my side panels under the door with a 1/0-gauge cable; I don't think it will fit.


I have always ran then on different sides of the car myself, however I heard that 6 inches apart is a safe distance.
I will run them on opposite edges of the transmission hump on the floor panel.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,383 Posts
1/0 wire is major overkill for 400 watts. You would save a lot of money using 4 gauge oxygen free copper wire. Fuse the power wire within 18 inches of the battery.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,920 Posts
x3 - Capacitor not required, thou invest your money on a Deep Cycle Battery (Kinetic, XS Power, Deka, Odyssey etc).
Run the In Line Fuse within 12" - 18" from the Battery Power out to the C2K. If you intend on adding a secondary amp, purchase Distribution Block [1/0 In, (2) 4 Gauge Out].
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
If you run them on opposite sides of the tranny hump in the center of the truck you'll be fine.

If the side panels in yours are anything like mine, it'll give the panel a bit of hump in the middle but that's it. If you can run it all under the carpet and it doesn't show, go for it. I've always ran power and RCAs under the panels on the sides because it's been the easiest way to do it for me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
424 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
1/0 wire is major overkill for 400 watts. You would save a lot of money using 4 gauge oxygen free copper wire.
Saving myself the time and setting it up for the future 18" woofers.


x3 - Capacitor not required, thou invest your money on a Deep Cycle Battery (Kinetic, XS Power, Deka, Odyssey etc).
Deep cycle before a high output alternator? I thought a deep cycle battery had a loss of cranking amps for a gain of lifespan?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,673 Posts
I have to say it.....I don't know who told you that a possible mounting position for tweeters would be above the seat belt (as your circle indicates as a possible mounting position) but you need to NEVER talk to that person again as they obviously have no clue about car audio....lol.

My advice would be the other spot you are looking at or the a-pillar. But please, stop the install immediately. You have some really nice equipment and need to spend some time learning and reading from the members of this forum before starting. If you can't or won't, then I would advise to sell the gear you have and go to walmart to replace it.

I'm not trying to be mean, but high end equipment with a bad install won't sound much better than Walmart level equipment with a bad install, you just spend more. There is a ton of info on here about properly installing and the "search" button should be your new friend.

Good Luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
424 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
I have to say it.....I don't know who told you that a possible mounting position for tweeters would be above the seat belt (as your circle indicates as a possible mounting position) but you need to NEVER talk to that person again as they obviously have no clue about car audio....lol.

My advice would be the other spot you are looking at or the a-pillar. But please, stop the install immediately. You have some really nice equipment and need to spend some time learning and reading from the members of this forum before starting.
I'm the one who theorized the B-pillar placement in contrast to the way a PA system is setup, not at ear level but all the way at the very top above your head.

A-pillar is an eyesore I will stick with the doors, and that is what I am TRYING to do here, I am in no rush and spending hundred$ on cabling as well (only the best).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
274 Posts
I'm the one who theorized the B-pillar placement in contrast to the way a PA system is setup, not at ear level but all the way at the very top above your head.
In sound reinforcement the tweets above is because the fz are directional and people in the back would not be able to hear them.
Where the tweets are proposed would effectively make it sound like the high hat was coming from behind you and the vocals in front.

Properly placed drivers in the limited CA environment is paramount to having it sound good.

I suggest not trying to re-write the book and look at examples of other installs and understanding the logic in why the drivers were placed where they were.

Good luck

~JH
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
424 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Not sure if it's worth doing my whole doors in Dynamat yet, the "whole door" seems to be more aimed toward blocking exterior noise and less direct speaker improvement. I need to hear my truck to make sure nothing is wrong with it (I mute my stereo and just listen sometimes) so with that being said should I at least use a speaker kit with my Focal's??

In this photo it looks like they used the circle they cut out on the back of the door; inside, is this a good idea?

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,098 Posts
I am in no rush and spending hundred$ on cabling as well (only the best).
Esoteric, cryogenic and pixie dust wires, are for the home audio nuts. Car audio nuts use coat hangars :). Seriously though, use that money for something more worth while.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
424 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
1 - 20 of 156 Posts
Top