[cartwright]

I'm new to the DIY audio and need help with an upgrade I have planned. The boat is a 22' bowrider and currently has these components.

Kenwood KMR-D5558BT HU KMR-D558BT | Marine | CAR ENTERTAINMENT | Kenwood Electronics Canada
(4)Infinity 612M speakers http://www.crutchfield.com/S-LNEWh5M...nity-612M.html

I would like to add an amp and a sub to this and may try the diy sub route to keep cost down as I'm just looking for some decent sound at lower volume levels.
I have an old Rockford punch 400.4 amp that I pulled from an old car system years ago. Not sure if a newer amp would use less battery power but I do have a dual battery system on board so I would prefer using this amp.

The questions I have are
- I have room for a 2 cf sub to be placed under the passenger side console, what type of box enclosure and speaker would you recommend for first time DIY?
-if I use the 4 channel amp to drive one set of speakers and the amp will I be able to balance the sound using the HU to drive the other two? Would I be better using the amp for the front or rear speakers?

 

[Bence]

I just recently completed a system in my boat. I used all Polk Audio DXi speakers and PA amplifiers as they are all marine rated, and very affordable. I am very happy with the results. The speakers were last years models so I'm unsure if the new DXi line is marine rated. I'm sure you could find some new old stock somewhere if you wanted to go that route.

Sealed enclosures are much easier to build for a first time DIY and take less space.

I asked the same question about my amp and decided to run 4 speakers off of two channels and 2 off the other two. I have 2 sets of 6 1/2" and one set of 5 1/4" speakers and wanted to be able to adjust power accordingly. You will get better sound with the amp vs. the deck. Most speakers are 4 ohm so if you run two speakers off of one channel you will see 2 ohms at the amp. If you wire it this way make sure your amp is 2 ohm stable.

Hope this helps

 

[syc0path]

Sealed box is definitely ezr to build, and it will keep the water out of the enclosure. 2cuft is plenty for a 12" sub. Use marine-rated wood to build the enclosure.

Personally, I would use 2 channels of the amp to power the front speakers. Bridge the other 2 channels of the amp to power the sub. Run the rear speakers off the HU. The rear speakers obviously won't be as loud as the fronts, but most of the sound should come from in front of u anyway.

 

[YukonXL04]

First off where are the speakers placed? that could change which ones you amp... But being its on a boat, I really would just amp all 4 on 2 channels, and run the sub off the other 2.

 

[cartwright]

Thanks for the reply, I posted this before I saw the above posts.

Since I want to drive a sub and 4 speakers am I better to use the amp for the sub and one set of speakers and the HU for the other set so that the fader can be used for front/back adjustment?
I'm also looking for info on downfiring vs other orientations for a boat application. I think ideally I would want the sub facing forward towards the passenger console

The speakers are in the cockpit area of the boat, one set beside driver seat, and the rear set on the back sides aiming slightly forward.

 

[YukonXL04]

Since your speakers are all in the main cockpit, Like others have said just wire front pair to ch1 and rear pair to ch2, then bridge 3+4 to the sub. By doing it like this you still retain front to rear fading. If it were a pair in the bow or something then sure run them off the HU, but being they are all in the same listening zone amp them all.

As for sub orientation, I have seen mixed results for different boats. Some are better aiming towards the side of the hull, some into the open air, and some are great downfire. Honestly I say figure which sub you want to run, pickup a cheap premade box and try it out in different aiming configurations. Once you find which way sounds the best in your boat built one to suite it an waterproof it.

On my boat when I was rebuilding the floor I built my sub box into the floor/hull with fiberglass, it really helped transfer the bass into the whole boat. But angled up/forward worked best on that one.

However I would recommend a ported box on a boat, they can really benefit from the extra output.

 

[syc0path]

Since your speakers are all in the main cockpit, Like others have said just wire front pair to ch1 and rear pair to ch2, then bridge 3+4 to the sub. By doing it like this you still retain front to rear fading.

He would still have front-rear fading, but at the expense of balance control and stereo sound!

I would power the rear speakers w/ the HU at 1st. If they're not loud enough, then I would give up fade control and wire them in parallel w/ the front speakers (front left and rear left on the same channel). Beyond that, the next best option would be to add more amplifier channels.

 

[robtr8]

DO NOT, under any circumstances, build the box out of MDF. Baltic Birch, MDO or King StarBoard is preferred.

 

[SHAGGS]

You can build it out of MDF, it just needs a generous coat of bed liner or Resin, to seal it.

 

[cartwright]

I plan on using ARAUCO Cabinet-Grade Plywood , as well as fiberglassing it.

AraucoPly 23/32 x 4 x 8 Pine Sanded Plywood | Lowe's Canada

 

[robtr8]

Generally, the first upgrade most guys do is the Polk drivers and amps. The PPI Phantoms are also popular. But eventually, you wind up with:

Wet Sounds Marine Audio | Wakeboard Tower Speakers, Amplifiers, Soundbars, Accessories and http://exileaudio.com/store/

Most of us with a tower have dropped the HU and just go with the ZLD or WS420SQ for easier zone control.

 

[Hillbilly SQ]

I would port the enclosure with the port(s) on the bottom so any water that could get in will drain out immediately. And port to around 40hz so you can get all the boom you can get with as little power as possible.