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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi there, I recently upgraded my sub woofers and now it has been causing my amp to overheat, so i've decided to build an amp cooling rack to keep it cool.

I'm going make an enclosed rack made out of MDF with a plexi-glass lid with 4 80mm fans, 2 on either end, one side pushing the other pulling.

Since I don't have much experience with wiring and such I did bit of research on how to wire all of this together and have it turn on and off with a remote source. I found that I needed a relay for all of this to work. So I made a diagram for myself on what information I was able to find but none of the information I came across was really specific about the wiring.

Because I am not sure if the diagram I created is 100% accurate I would like anyone on here to take a look at it and correct me on anything that is wrong so I don't burn my car down or fry something.

Thanks in advance!

 

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This book should help with anything that you need.

http://www.davebarton.com/pdf/RelayGuide.pdf

with that said make sure since you plan on having the fans run constant that you get some really quiet ones. i've always wanted to use a temp controlled fan type system. something like you see in PC rigs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
These are the fans i'll be getting for the application. By design they should be pretty quite.


I plan on adding an on/off switch at some point so I can just flip the fans and amp on when ever I feel like jamming.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
After reading through the PDF you sent I can see that nothing in my diagram is wrong but it also doesn't show enough to confirm everything on my diagram should be right. Can you or anyone tell by the diagram I have made if this will work?

Also, after reading your post I decided that it would be essential to add and on/off switch for the fans so I have updated the diagram picture on the original post to reflect that.
 

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if you're adding a switch you don't really need the relay just make sure your main power wire to the switch is fused and don't use the remote wire.

but the correct diagram in the guide is on page 31 the first diagram
 

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I'd not switch both power and ground to the fan. I'd use a simple SPST switch on the power to the fan and run the fan ground to constant chassis ground. A cheap SPST switch with a built-in indicator light showing when the fan is 'on' might be preferable.

IMHO all grounds should always be constant to chassis, never 'switched'.

The rare exception being ground-switched circuits where the power is constant - not at all a common situation and not what you have/need here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Alright, I think I have the confidence to do this project now. So I should give everything its own constant chassis ground.

I think I still might keep the relay even though i'm going to be adding a toggle switch for the fans just in case I forget to turn the fans off and run the battery dead.

I have updated the diagram in the original post hopefully for the last time. haha

Thanks for the help, wish me luck.

EDIT: Also, should 16g wire work for this application? Or should I get something a little bigger?
 

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Just curious, why not upgrade the amp too?
 

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Lol that's so wrong head unit goes to 85 86 goes to amp then the amp has a ground completes that circuit then batt 12v then fuse then goes to 30 87a goes to fan then ground fan all grounds don't have to go to the same place either so that's key on then the fan kicks on same way I just wired my trailer brakes and you don't have to use the head unit wire you can use a key on 12 v wire

Sent from my XT1609 using Tapatalk
 

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You may not want to use the relays acc. output to power the remote on the amps. A lot of amps are very sensitive to remote input amperage. .5 is enough for most amps and 5 amps can damage some. Just split the remote wire directly from the HU. The HU will have no problem turning on two things.
 

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Because the remote is already run to where the amp is. Why would you run an extra wire when you have one there already?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Just curious, why not upgrade the amp too?
Well, because there would be no gain besides having an amp that doesn't overheat. A new amp would cost double if not more then what it would cost to build a cooling rack. The amp I have already give my subs all the rms they need.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Lol that's so wrong head unit goes to 85 86 goes to amp then the amp has a ground completes that circuit then batt 12v then fuse then goes to 30 87a goes to fan then ground fan all grounds don't have to go to the same place either so that's key on then the fan kicks on same way I just wired my trailer brakes and you don't have to use the head unit wire you can use a key on 12 v wire

Sent from my XT1609 using Tapatalk
From what I understand with relays is that you can invert 85/86 and 87/30 and it mostly depends on personal opinion. Also why would it matter if i gave the relay its own dedicated ground or grounded it to the amps ground, wouldn't it better if it had its own dedicated ground?

EDIT: Also, i'm pretty sure that 87A has no use in my application.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
You may not want to use the relays acc. output to power the remote on the amps. A lot of amps are very sensitive to remote input amperage. .5 is enough for most amps and 5 amps can damage some. Just split the remote wire directly from the HU. The HU will have no problem turning on two things.
Okay, I have no problem doing that which is actually what i preferred but i read somewhere that it can damage your head unit over time if you use it to trigger to many devices.
 

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If your amp is giving your sub all the power it's needs then it shouldn't be overheating. Are you running it at the correct load? Amps that are not broken or overworked don't typically overheat. How do know it's overheating? Is going in to protect? Some amps run to hot to touch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
If your amp is giving your sub all the power it's needs then it shouldn't be overheating. Are you running it at the correct load? Amps that are not broken or overworked don't typically overheat. How do know it's overheating? Is going in to protect? Some amps run to hot to touch.
Well it has only cut out on me once since the install of the new sub woofers, all at once the bass just cut off as if the amp shutdown. By the time i pulled over to check it it had already recovered and was working again but that sucker was HOT i could barley touch it.

It's a type a/b 900W 2 channel amp, it is rated at 225W RMS x2 at 2ohms which is what i have it wired as. The sub woofers i have are 2ohm rated at 250W RMS. So i suppose the subs aren't quite maxed out but a new amp would still not offer enough to justify the cost.
 

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Just making sure. The wrong load can overheat amps quickly. To many things on a remote wire can surely damage an HU. The amp and relay is not to much. A dedicated ground for individual items is not best. Ideally all things would be grounded to the same point. Obviously not feasible in most situations.
 
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